Lilserenity
Well-known
Hiya,
One of my OM2n's has started producing some not too clever behaviour and just over 1 week to go to Italy this is the worst possible timing.
On some exposures (different films run through it) there are strong vertical lines running down the negatives, often in a very straight line and uneven exposure around these pronounced lines. At first I thought it was the processing of the film, but it's not.
It does not happen on all frames, in fact most are fine. I have most had the 50mm on my chrome OM2n (which is having the issue) but I have also had it on my black OM2n (fine and just serviced) and no issues there.
Sometimes it's just one line, sometimes 2-3 all close together with generally over exposure around them, here is an example:
MK_MAY11_400NC_Scan-110519-0003 by Vicky Lamburn, on Flickr
(Middle of the frame, note that the position of the lines is never constant, sometimes in the middle, to the right or, left and right)
Sometimes it is even more pronounced.
This generally started happening after it had a small tumble but as I say it hasn't affected all frames.
In fact, it appears to be where I remember a very fast shutter speed, e.g. 1/1000th or 'faster' (i.e. where the needle is above 1000), I very rarely shoot fast film at this time of year but it seems most pronounced with ISO 400 films where I remember some of these shots tipping the scales at 1/1000th or 'faster'. Could this be the cause?
I'm now trying to decide if it is a fault, then I need to either get a replacement body or get a repair quick -- I cannot afford this to happen in Tuscany.
Thanks for all the advice in advance!
Vicky
One of my OM2n's has started producing some not too clever behaviour and just over 1 week to go to Italy this is the worst possible timing.
On some exposures (different films run through it) there are strong vertical lines running down the negatives, often in a very straight line and uneven exposure around these pronounced lines. At first I thought it was the processing of the film, but it's not.
It does not happen on all frames, in fact most are fine. I have most had the 50mm on my chrome OM2n (which is having the issue) but I have also had it on my black OM2n (fine and just serviced) and no issues there.
Sometimes it's just one line, sometimes 2-3 all close together with generally over exposure around them, here is an example:
MK_MAY11_400NC_Scan-110519-0003 by Vicky Lamburn, on Flickr
(Middle of the frame, note that the position of the lines is never constant, sometimes in the middle, to the right or, left and right)
Sometimes it is even more pronounced.
This generally started happening after it had a small tumble but as I say it hasn't affected all frames.
In fact, it appears to be where I remember a very fast shutter speed, e.g. 1/1000th or 'faster' (i.e. where the needle is above 1000), I very rarely shoot fast film at this time of year but it seems most pronounced with ISO 400 films where I remember some of these shots tipping the scales at 1/1000th or 'faster'. Could this be the cause?
I'm now trying to decide if it is a fault, then I need to either get a replacement body or get a repair quick -- I cannot afford this to happen in Tuscany.
Thanks for all the advice in advance!
Vicky
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Jamie123
Veteran
From what you're describing it sounds like a problem with the shutter. My guess would be that at fast speeds the second curtain is having trouble keeping up with the first.
amateriat
We're all light!
My thoughts concur with Jamie's. I'd have the camera looked at regarding its shutter.
- Barrett
- Barrett
Lilserenity
Well-known
Thanks guys that confirms more or less what I was thinking (well not the curtains thing, I have no idea about the technicalities!) that the shutter has issues. Gah! Ok, now to find someone who can turn it around in a week, I'd rather stick with a camera of which I know the provenance of and only had serviced last December. Guess something wasn't done or more likely developed since.
Thanks
Vicky
Thanks
Vicky
Ade-oh
Well-known
Hmm, it looks to me like something is very slightly impeding the travel on the second shutter curtain. I've always used http://www.lutoncameras.co.uk/ for my Olympus repairs but I don't know whether they can turn it round in a week.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
OM-2's have an unusual shutter system because in auto mode after the first curtain opens the camera's metering system takes a reading from the film surface and adjusts the speed of the second curtain based on this reading.
I gather it's only doing it in auto mode Vicky ... or is it doing it in manual ... or both?
I gather it's only doing it in auto mode Vicky ... or is it doing it in manual ... or both?
Lilserenity
Well-known
It's doing it only in Auto mode, well, I rarely use Manual mode (only in low light to override the meter.)
Sounds like it could be complicated. Rats!
What to do is the question!
Vicky
Lilserenity
Well-known
I have made a couple of calls, I'm going to take it to a local repairer (well, about 25-30 miles away...) to investigate, could be bad seals (probably not) or shutter curtain issues you guys have cited. I've decided it's not worth the risk taking the camera without having it looked at or purchasing another (as I have no need for another OM body even though an OM4Ti would be nice -- that still leaves a problematic OM2n needing attention) which I don't know the provenance of.
Vicky
Vicky
John Hermanson
Well-known
That's an unusual mark, I've never seen shutter behavior that would causes such a "fine" defect in a 2/2N. Have you confirmed it's on the negative and not created by the scanner? Not bad seals as that would cause mild to massive fogging. If the curtain speeds were off it would create gradual darkening /lighting of the frame or complete exposure cut off. Technically, the fastest shutter speed you can use on auto is 1/1000. If you purposely shoot above that, a safety shutter speed is supposed to protect you. That's called the "mini shutter" and (only if your camera is tuned properly) should give you a shutter speed around 1/2000th. I would avoid shooting when the needle is above 1/1000 (and even THAT may not be correct if your camera meter is tuned properly). John
ColinW
* Click *
Vicky,
Is that the 2n you had problems with before? If you're on a limited timescale I'd recommend Keith Leedham. He repaired my OM4 and I got it back in a couple of days better than ever. He does a next day delivery policy so there's no waiting around. Good prices and really fast turnaround, I'm sending a another OM to him soon.
He never looks at his email much as he's a bit of a computerphobe, so if you get no response, better to phone (Monday to Friday).
http://www.klcamerarepairs.co.uk/
Good luck.
Is that the 2n you had problems with before? If you're on a limited timescale I'd recommend Keith Leedham. He repaired my OM4 and I got it back in a couple of days better than ever. He does a next day delivery policy so there's no waiting around. Good prices and really fast turnaround, I'm sending a another OM to him soon.
He never looks at his email much as he's a bit of a computerphobe, so if you get no response, better to phone (Monday to Friday).
http://www.klcamerarepairs.co.uk/
Good luck.
keytarjunkie
no longer addicted
That's a scanner problem, not a shutter problem. Get your scanner checked.
Lilserenity
Well-known
Thanks for the interesting feedback, I have dropped it off to be looked at.
I was fairly confident it's not the scanner as when I have scanned the same frame over and over it always appears in the same place on that frame, however move to another frame and nothing at all.
I have tried this on numerous films and it appears intermittently.
I couldn't recall Keith's details earlier but I'll store them this time (annoyingly Google searches threw up nothing at all, seems Google have dropped him off the index) -- anyway, the local company is good and we'll see what happens.
I guess I am taking a precaution in case it is the camera, I don't want ruined negatives/slides from my holiday!
Vicky
I was fairly confident it's not the scanner as when I have scanned the same frame over and over it always appears in the same place on that frame, however move to another frame and nothing at all.
I have tried this on numerous films and it appears intermittently.
I couldn't recall Keith's details earlier but I'll store them this time (annoyingly Google searches threw up nothing at all, seems Google have dropped him off the index) -- anyway, the local company is good and we'll see what happens.
I guess I am taking a precaution in case it is the camera, I don't want ruined negatives/slides from my holiday!
Vicky
Lilserenity
Well-known
If I recall, that was the 2n which had problems winding on, I sold that on as spares and repairs in the end and I got the current 2n for £36 with a lens, I then got this one with the problem serviced with Keith.
Well I say problem, it might not be one at all, I have tested this scanner but now someone has mentioned it could be the scanner I'm doubt my own tests!
Vicky
Field
Well-known
Complicated? It probably just needs lubricated...
The exposure is fine except a small lag once in awhile. Maybe it needs cleaned, maybe just lubricated.
The exposure is fine except a small lag once in awhile. Maybe it needs cleaned, maybe just lubricated.
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jesse1dog
Light Catcher
If it's a speed issue at 1/1000 sec you could always use an ND filter and hence a slower speed.
jesse
jesse
Lilserenity
Well-known
That was exactly my thought
If this can't be worked out, an ND2, maybe an ND4 might help if indeed my observation that it has tended to be at fast shutter speeds is correct.Vicky
John Hermanson
Well-known
You should show us one of the scans that shows the defect in the most pronounced way. John
Lilserenity
Well-known
Apologies for the large image that follows:
Admittedly I need to rescan on the flatbed (rather than the Coolscan) to capture the sprocket area, but the 'streaks/lines' down this extend all the way down the scan, and as I say, rescanning replicated it exactly the same.
This is just a chunk of the frame.
I'll try to find another, although I have tended to delete the duff frames so it might take me until tomorrow evening to get another example.
Admittedly I need to rescan on the flatbed (rather than the Coolscan) to capture the sprocket area, but the 'streaks/lines' down this extend all the way down the scan, and as I say, rescanning replicated it exactly the same.
This is just a chunk of the frame.
I'll try to find another, although I have tended to delete the duff frames so it might take me until tomorrow evening to get another example.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
My other suggestion is that someone who lives not too far from Vicky could lend her a working OM-2 for her trip so that she can get her's repaired at her leisure when she returns.
I have a very reliable OM-2 that is pretty much a backup body ... if I lived closer I would happily let her use it to get her out of this scrape but Oz is a long way from Milton Keynes.
Anybody?
I have a very reliable OM-2 that is pretty much a backup body ... if I lived closer I would happily let her use it to get her out of this scrape but Oz is a long way from Milton Keynes.
Anybody?
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
My other suggestion is that someone who lives not too far from Vicky could lend her a working OM-2 for her trip so that she can get her's repaired at her leisure when she returns.
I have a very reliable OM-2 that is pretty much a backup body ... if I lived closer I would happily let her use it to get her out of this scrape but Oz is a long way from Milton Keynes.
Anybody?
Keith makes a great suggestion regarding a temp fix for now...
In the bigger scan of the photo you can really see what's going on...if you step back from your monitor you can actually see a second line that's maybe just a bit smaller than the first but it's definitely there...
Looks like somethings hanging up the curtain...