Olympus OMPC Camera Test

[farlymac]

Some shots from an OMPC I was testing. I can’t say as I like the handling of it, nor the resulting exposures. These have all been doctored.


Summertime River by br1078phot, on Flickr



The Light Shines Down by br1078phot, on Flickr



On The Far Track by br1078phot, on Flickr



Riverbend by br1078phot, on Flickr



Mottled Greens by br1078phot, on Flickr

More at:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157645761933188/

PF

 

[In the Lowlands]

The highlights in these pictures seem to be over exposed. Considering the high contrast in these images.
I would check the metering. Ektar 100 should give you good images with proper exposure.
Shoot a roll of 100 ISO B&W film using the same camera and lens combo, bracketing each exposure -1/normal/+1 stop, develop it yourself and check if the exposure is OK.
The pictures seem to lack some sharpness as well.
Normally the OMPC, OM40, should deliver great shots.

Best regards.

 

[dtcls100]

The lack of sharpness is readily explained by the need to scan the film images. In my personal experience, scanning 35 mm negs, slides or prints results in a great deal of sharpness loss, unless one goes for very expensive scans.

 

[Ranchu]

"It doesn't help that unfamiliarity with the controls most likely caused the overexposure. I did read the manual, but I sometimes forget to set it right."

?

I get good scans from a sharp lens and a v500, they aren't expensive. If you shoot 400 speed color negative like I do, you don't get much more than 50 lp/mm anyway. I shoot it for the DR and the colors, not the sharpness.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143694

 

[farlymac]

The highlights in these pictures seem to be over exposed. Considering the high contrast in these images.
I would check the metering. Ektar 100 should give you good images with proper exposure.
Shoot a roll of 100 ISO B&W film using the same camera and lens combo, bracketing each exposure -1/normal/+1 stop, develop it yourself and check if the exposure is OK.
The pictures seem to lack some sharpness as well.
Normally the OMPC, OM40, should deliver great shots.

Best regards.

Yes, no matter what mode I was in, at least two stops over. I noticed it when switched into manual, and even then I didn't guess right as to how much it was off.

The techs down at the lab don't care for the Ektar either. They say it's hard to scan properly. I get lousy results with it no matter what camera I use.

PF

 

[wblynch]

Did you try the ESP mode in aperture priority? It's marvelous for slide film.

 

[farlymac]

Did you try the ESP mode in aperture priority? It's marvelous for slide film.

Yes, left it in ESP the whole time. I may give it one more chance, but not on something I deem important.

PF

 

[Noll]

Yes, no matter what mode I was in, at least two stops over. I noticed it when switched into manual, and even then I didn't guess right as to how much it was off.

I have noticed what seems like a similar issue in my OMG and OM4. Whenever I have the exposure on auto, it consistently overexposes by 2+ stops. I have since stopped using auto and stick with manual on these cameras, where the meter seems to read properly. Nobody else had written about this issue till now, good to know I'm not going crazy!

I recently picked up an OM-10 however that functions normally on auto.

 

[ChrisPlatt]

I worked in the camera repair department at Olympus in Woodbury NY.
During my time there around 1986 the OM-PC was the SLR I serviced.

IIRC the problem you are experiencing may be caused by a sticky magnet.
There's a small cover inside the lens mount at the bottom of the mirror chamber.
A little alcohol along the top edge will soften the glue that holds it in place.
Remove the cover. Inside you'll see a long metallic bar.
Clean it and mating surfaces with alcohol. Let dry.
Put a little Pliobond along the edges of the cover and reinstall.

Chris

 

[Ranchu]

On the OM10 you have to peel off the felt strips on either side before you can get the cover up. Don't know if the OMPC has these but I thought I'd throw it in here.

 

[ChrisPlatt]

Yes, I think the OM-PC also requires removal of a small strip of black flocking as well.
Here also alcohol can be used to soften the adhesive, and Pliobond used to reinstall.

FWIW I am surprised I can remember any part of the procedure after nearly 30 years.

Chris

 

[markus_h_photography]

Back when I had my OM40 (which I'd had for close to 20 years) I found the ESP metering would consistently give me poor results. Using good ol' average metering and Aperture Priority was the way to go I found.

 

[farlymac]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll try out all the combinations one more time on a sunny, cloudless day so there will be no light level difference between frames. I've got one OM-10 that is good on exposure, and another to test. I also have an OM-G(20)(one of three) that is good. The OM-F(30) I still haven't glued the mirror back in. Just tested an OM-1 with a flaky meter, so those were all over the place.

PF

 

[John Hermanson]

Hard to judge film negatives unless you have access to a transmission densitometer. You really can't judge a body by negatives. A shutter tester with OTF sensor would also be required. John

 

[John Hermanson]

EVERY OM-10 I see has severe overexposure problems, especially on the first frame taken after the camera has sat unused for a while. John

 

[Rodchenko]

I get good results from the ESP setting on my 2SP, and did on my 40, when I had that.