aad
Not so new now.
Yes, Ruben, as mentioned the 2 speeds are 1/40 and 1/200. I can hear the difference!
Olympus Trip 35: The Leica of the Point and Shoots?
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ruben
Guest
Thanks, now for a question:
Why not using a hood to try to limit the area being light-metered ?
Has anyone tryied it ?
Cheers,
Ruben
Why not using a hood to try to limit the area being light-metered ?
Has anyone tryied it ?
Cheers,
Ruben
aad
Not so new now.
Sort of defeats the spirit. Besides, I think you can lock exposure by half-pressing the shutter release while pointing at an appropriate area.
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ruben
Guest
aad said:
What do you mean ?
FrankS
Registered User
I guess one way to prevent under exposure from too much light/sky in the frame would be to use your finger to cover part of the selenium meter around the lens to make the camera think that there is less light and therefore give more exposure. Exposure compensation at it's simplest!
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ruben
Guest
But what I am looking for is not compensating the exposure for narrowing the area of exposure. Some sort of "spot" 🙂 metering, because I meet at the streets a lot of mixed sources of light, very often with high backlights.
BTW, I am speaking about a Hoya standard hood, that as most of you know they are cilyndrical shaped, not conical.
Cheers,
Ruben
BTW, I am speaking about a Hoya standard hood, that as most of you know they are cilyndrical shaped, not conical.
Cheers,
Ruben
Last edited by a moderator:
FrankS
Registered User
Sorry Ruben I was not addressing your question with my observation.
For your question: the selenium meter has these bumps that act as lenses that gather light from directly in front of the camera, though certainly not spot metering. The meter was designed this way. If you restrict light from hitting the meter by using a lens hood for instance, it may cause over exposure of the scene.
Also, the "spirit" of the camera is one of simplicity and compactness.
For your question: the selenium meter has these bumps that act as lenses that gather light from directly in front of the camera, though certainly not spot metering. The meter was designed this way. If you restrict light from hitting the meter by using a lens hood for instance, it may cause over exposure of the scene.
Also, the "spirit" of the camera is one of simplicity and compactness.
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ruben
Guest
Thanks Frank.
OlyMan
Established
Providing you're not using 25 or 400 ISO film, you are blessed with at least one stop of adjustment either direction by using the film-speed ring. Take the film speed down to increase the exposure and up to decrease the exposure.
Tigersight
Light makes right.
JorgeF, I got the lizard skin form cameraleather.com
FrankS, your idea is very good and, in fact, done regularly by Trip 35 aficionados.
Regarding the discussion as to the two speeds of the Trip 1/40 and 1/200, it may sound like it doesn't have much flexibility in different lighting situations but that is certainly not so (see my photos at the site given at the beginning of the thread).
I am no longer a fussbudget. I take photos with the Trip set at either "A" (for almost all situations) or I put it on f2.8 in low light when the red flag ("not enough light") pops up and doesn't let me trip the shutter. I frame the shot and push the shutter (carefully....it might be at 1/40!). I never take more than one shot of anything! That's how sure I am of this camera. The light meter is phenomenal, better even than what I have on my OM-1n.
The Trip 35 is one of those strange cases in life where, when you look at something on paper, it just doesn't match the performance that you actually get because the different componants all just come together in some inexplicable synergistic way to produce totally beautiful photos. Who would ever think a humble 4-element lens could do what it does? My photo, "Zeta" was taken in the dark with the Trip set at f2.8 and handheld for cri-eye! Who would ever think that it would turn out so perfectly?! It doesn't seem possible.
FrankS, your idea is very good and, in fact, done regularly by Trip 35 aficionados.
Regarding the discussion as to the two speeds of the Trip 1/40 and 1/200, it may sound like it doesn't have much flexibility in different lighting situations but that is certainly not so (see my photos at the site given at the beginning of the thread).
I am no longer a fussbudget. I take photos with the Trip set at either "A" (for almost all situations) or I put it on f2.8 in low light when the red flag ("not enough light") pops up and doesn't let me trip the shutter. I frame the shot and push the shutter (carefully....it might be at 1/40!). I never take more than one shot of anything! That's how sure I am of this camera. The light meter is phenomenal, better even than what I have on my OM-1n.
The Trip 35 is one of those strange cases in life where, when you look at something on paper, it just doesn't match the performance that you actually get because the different componants all just come together in some inexplicable synergistic way to produce totally beautiful photos. Who would ever think a humble 4-element lens could do what it does? My photo, "Zeta" was taken in the dark with the Trip set at f2.8 and handheld for cri-eye! Who would ever think that it would turn out so perfectly?! It doesn't seem possible.
nightfly
Well-known
Anyone have an extra they want to get rid of?
PM me.
PM me.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Tigersight
Light makes right.
Right now there is a very rare black Trip 35 up for bid on eBay--22hours left. It's pricy as far as Trips go, but it looks to be good, as the seller says the red flag activates which means the selenium cell is ok.
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
If I weren't interested in other gear, I'd bid on that ... the black Trips are dead sexy!
Here's another Trip shot which I made expressly to test out sharpness, colour rendering, etc.
Here's another Trip shot which I made expressly to test out sharpness, colour rendering, etc.
OlyMan
Established
Very impressive, Trius. I look at shots like that and end up wondering just how much real improvemnet we've made in 40 years. Perhaps the best modern lenses are more flare-resistant and contrasty, but are they more so than Leica and Zeiss glass of a generation ago?
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
John: Thanks for the compliment. As I said, it was just a test shot, though I did try to compose it so that it was at least somewhat visually interesting.
When I see top-flight lenses from Leica, Zeiss & CV, I say, "yeah, we have progressed." But how much? The point to me is that the older stuff is STILL way more than capable of good results than we normally can produce as photographers. Certainly a lot of the digi-SLR glass that is sold today is no better than the four-element Zuiko (Tessar design?) on the Trip. You generally have to get the "pro level" zoom lenses from the majors, not the kit lenses, to get any advantage. And then what have you got? An unweildy piece of plastic that gives most people more questions ("How far should I zoom in? How do I choose an f-stop? What IS an f-stop?") than they can answer before the photo is gone. Or they're too far away to create an image with impact. "If your pictures aren't good enough, you're not close enough."
Earl
When I see top-flight lenses from Leica, Zeiss & CV, I say, "yeah, we have progressed." But how much? The point to me is that the older stuff is STILL way more than capable of good results than we normally can produce as photographers. Certainly a lot of the digi-SLR glass that is sold today is no better than the four-element Zuiko (Tessar design?) on the Trip. You generally have to get the "pro level" zoom lenses from the majors, not the kit lenses, to get any advantage. And then what have you got? An unweildy piece of plastic that gives most people more questions ("How far should I zoom in? How do I choose an f-stop? What IS an f-stop?") than they can answer before the photo is gone. Or they're too far away to create an image with impact. "If your pictures aren't good enough, you're not close enough."
Earl
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
'Trip Gas' ... I have just put a bid on a trip I spotted on Aust eBay!
Do I need another small scale focus camera ... probably not ... how long is a piece of string? :bang: 😛
Do I need another small scale focus camera ... probably not ... how long is a piece of string? :bang: 😛
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
Apparently long enough for a trip...
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Trius said:
I blame you totally .. that pic is impressive! 😛
Trius
Waiting on Maitani
At least I'm cheap.
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