MXP
Established
If you are talking about powdered lubricants, I'd advise you to NEVER use them, especially spray lubes (like WD-40). The only dry lubricant I have ever found that stays where you put it is graphite in stick form: http://www.heatoncooper.co.uk/eshop1/shopimages/products/normal/graphitefaberstick.jpg
They are sold in art supply stores and are used for drawing. Ask for a #6B. You rub it on and then wipe most of it off. Pretty much any other form of dry lubricant will wind up all over the inside of the camera.
I have also used some fine gun oil. It also seems to be ok. I got some form this supplier:
http://www.proshotproducts.com/
It seems to be a very fine oil. I would never use WD-40 and never graphite powder. The SuperLube dry-film is PTFE based. It is sold as spray. So I spray a bit into a little bottle and then use another method to apply it where I want. About the dry powder (which I don't think is graphite.....it is called Molylube) I have heard a good way is to dilute it into "lighter fluid" and use it this was as it was a normal fine oil. I will try it on a shutter I don't need.....just for an experiment.
SuperLube products are here:
http://www.super-lube.com/
MXP
Established
I have also used some fine gun oil. It also seems to be ok. I got some form this supplier:
http://www.proshotproducts.com/
It seems to be a very fine oil. I would never use WD-40 and never graphite powder. The SuperLube dry-film is PTFE based. It is sold as spray. So I spray a bit into a little bottle and then use another method to apply it where I want. About the dry powder (which I don't think is graphite.....it is called Molylube) I have heard a good way is to dilute it into "lighter fluid" and use it this was as it was a normal fine oil. I will try it on a shutter I don't need.....just for an experiment.
SuperLube products are here:
http://www.super-lube.com/
Just found out that Molylube is "molybdenum disulfide":
http://www.cvc.in/proddet.asp?prod=93
Beemermark
Veteran
Not to sound dumb, but I don't get this? Do you mean the large VF window? ANd if so how do then see thru it??you can put some tape on the or use some black marker on the VF window to increase the contrast of the patch
MarkoKovacevic
Well-known
Not to sound dumb, but I don't get this? Do you mean the large VF window? ANd if so how do then see thru it??
you put a 1x1mm piece in the middle of the large VF window, and you line the piece up with the RF spot.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Not to sound dumb, but I don't get this? Do you mean the large VF window? ANd if so how do then see thru it??
You don't cover the whole viewfinder. You cut a tiny piece of tape and line it up with the rangefinder patch when you look through the viewfinder. What this does is give you the effect of 100% reflectivity of the part of the semitransparent mirror that corresponds to the patch of tape, instead of the normal 50% -- you're no longer seeing anything through the patch. You are seeing everything around the patch fine though, since it isn't covered by tape. The whole thing acts sort of like a split image rangefinder after that instead of like a coincident rangefinder. Since your patch is then allowing you to see only through the other side of the camera instead of through the viewfinder side, the image in the patch is more distinct and is easier to line up. The disadvantage is that you'll need to look for strong vertical lines to line up, instead of lining up coinciding details -- this means you can't focus on a shirt button anymore.
Last edited:
ludoo
Established
I just posted a set on flickr with pics and instructions on how to open the XA top, as I could not find one around. From there, checking the resistors or aligning the meter needle (and cleaning the rangefinder) should be pretty obvious tasks.
Share: