OM, I've become a Zuikoholic!

PatrickT said:
Oh jeeze, just bought myself the Zuiko 50/1.2...should be here later this week! I'll have to sell my other Zuiko 50's to fund it 🙁 Should be worth it though...
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Please post some pics when you get it!


I went on a tear this month, and picked up a 24/2, 35/2, and 55/1.2 (it was my birthday and I had saved up a little bit of money). I had been saving for a m4/3rds camera, but decided instead to shoot more film!
 
nikku said:
Please post some pics when you get it!


I went on a tear this month, and picked up a 24/2, 35/2, and 55/1.2 (it was my birthday and I had saved up a little bit of money). I had been saving for a m4/3rds camera, but decided instead to shoot more film!
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I will, although I really only use these lenses on my Canon 5D...not sure that it would be kosher in this thread 😀

I'd love a 24/2...seems like a great lens!
 
PatrickT said:
I will, although I really only use these lenses on my Canon 5D...not sure that it would be kosher in this thread 😀

I'd love a 24/2...seems like a great lens!
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Nah, it's all good, I've been wanting a 5D forever for the same reason (to be able to use these lenses on a digital camera at their intended focal length).
 
PatrickT said:
I will, although I really only use these lenses on my Canon 5D...not sure that it would be kosher in this thread 😀

I'd love a 24/2...seems like a great lens!
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Congrats on the 1.2 and yes please do post some pics from the lens on your 5D ... being so familiar with this lens with film only, I'd be very interested to see how it's OOF quirks render digitally.

I'd love to be able to put mine on my D700!

(I realise this post was complete heresy for you purists and I apologise ... sincerely!) 😀
 
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I noticed that the aperture stops on the lens go from 1.2 to 2 (which is quite a distance). I'd be interested in shooting between those stops (say, around f/1.4). Is there any adverse affect on image quality to just placing the aperture ring in between the two stops to get something like f/1.4? Or can a new "click stop" be added somehow? Not a big deal, just curious...
 
Patrick, there is no adverse effect I could think of. I agree that Olympus should have gone for one more click in between though.
Have fun trying out the lens!
Ljós
 
PatrickT said:
It's here....
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It really does not look like a "super fast", humongous lens on the camera, which is a good thing. More like a "normal" normal 🙂
Sometimes you read about two-lens strategies here on RFF, like a 1.2 35mm for low light, and a more pocketable 2.5 35mm for everyday and outdoors. It looks like this won't be called for (at least not because of size) with this lens.
Will be interesting to see and hear how the 1.4 and 1.2 50mm compare optically.
 
Ljós said:
It really does not look like a "super fast", humongous lens on the camera, which is a good thing. More like a "normal" normal 🙂
Sometimes you read about two-lens strategies here on RFF, like a 1.2 35mm for low light, and a more pocketable 2.5 35mm for everyday and outdoors. It looks like this won't be called for (at least not because of size) with this lens.
Will be interesting to see and hear how the 1.4 and 1.2 50mm compare optically.
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That porky old Canon would make most lenses look small! :angel:

😀
 
JSU said:
Patrick--

I looked through your entire flickr gallery, you have some very impressive images and an engaging style. The more I saw the more I had to keep looking!

With respect to the 5D and various lenses, do you typically shoot only wide open or do you stop down any? Did you switch from the 105/2.5 to the 85/1.4 because of the lens speed or some other reason? Have you changed the finder screen in your 5D to facilitate manual focussing?

I am beginning to believe that this might be the digital solution for my own Zuiko OM lenses, something others have probably known for a while now.

--Steve
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Thanks guys! Steve, to answer your questions in order...

I typically shoot wide open. The pain about using manual lenses on a 5D is that you have to do stop down metering...meaning that if I want to stop the lens down to f/8 and take a photo, the blades close and make it incredible dark in the viewfinder (unlike if the lenses were on an OM...the blades only close down when the photo is taken). This isn't WHY I shoot wide open, I do it because I like it, but it is something to consider. Now, if you're using a tripod, you can focus the image wide open and then stop down to take the photo. For "street" photos, this does not work so well 🙂

I really liked the 105/2.5 but wanted something faster and shorter. 105 seemed a little too long for me and I also wanted more light gathering capability.

I used to use only the af-confirm chip on the lens adapter to help me focus, but after hearing so much about how a better focusing screen will help your manual focusing, I got one (the Ee-s for the 5D). It has helped A TON and makes me realize how often the af-confirm chip was wrong (or less accurate than I thought).

The 5D, while relatively large and loud, is an amazing camera and can be had for fairly cheap (about ~$1k if you look). It can accept a WIDE variety of old manual glass and the image quality is just amazing. True that anymore it is not the best in low light performance (the D700 or 5DMKII would hand it it's rear) but for the price, you can't go wrong. 12MP is plenty for me. With a zuiko prime attached (such as the 50/1.8) the camera becomes extremely portable. Even with the 50/1.2 it's really not all that large (for reference, the Zuiko 50/1.2 is about as big as the Canon EF 50/1.8, but a little heavier).

I'd say go for it...buy one used, try it out, and if you don't take to it, sell it for the price you paid!

Keith - Go for it 🙂 I've heard that you can get them converted to work on Nikons, but then you lose the ability to use them on your OM...Oh and Re: Porky Canon...says the guy with the D700 😀

Hannes - You're right, it isn't too big. And yes, I try to do that method you mentioned. For example, I have the 50/1.2 and a 50/1.8 for the different situations, as well as a Zuiko 35/2.8 and a (gasp!) Nikon 35/1.4 (please don't shoot me).

Sorry for the slight OT....
 
chippy said:
common sense, values and ethics are more like apple to apples

hey, i get where your coming from (you dont seem to understand my point though)...

i am curious why you have difficulty seeing the 'other' side to this....

food for thought is all 🙂
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Don't confuse my not being persuaded by your posts with having a "difficulty seeing the 'other' side to this...."

Life is too short for this sh!t.
 
Olympus shutter speeds ?

Olympus shutter speeds ?

I think I noticed something about two of my Olympus SLR's that I didn't notice before:

When firing the shutter on auto (for my OM-2) or Program or auto (for my OM-4), the slow shutter speeds are clearly way too slow, but the error seems proportional, i.e.:

1 sec sounds like 4 sec
1/2 sec sounds like 2 sec
1/4th sec like 1 sec
and so on, so each speed is about 4 times longer then it should be. I can compare this with some manual camera's I have, and I'm quite sure I know how 1, 1/2 and 1/4th sec sound; one gets used to that sound, you know what I mean,

BUT this seems only the case when there is no film in the camera ?

I'm going to develop the film tonight, so I'll know if it is correctly exposed or not, but since the shutter stayed open clearly too long when there was no film in the camera, I loaded the camera with a short piece of film and took some pictures indoors and outside, shutter speeds from 1 sec to 1/60th, and it sounded normal at all speeds.

Does all of this makes sense ? Is it possible the shutter reacts differently if there's no film in the camera ? FWIW, on manual, in all cases the shutter stayed open correctly at all speeds.

Thanks,
Stefan.
 
The OM2 measures exposure times off the film. When there is no film in it, the black pressure plate will lead to wrong times ..... Chances are very high that your camera is fine. You can put a piece of paper in it and will see how it changes the camera behavior.
 
I thought about this possibility (I think the OM40 also measures OTF), but when the camera indicates e.g. 1/8th of a second, that might be the wrong time to have a correct exposure, but it still should sound like 1/8th; the shutter shouldn't stay open for 1/2,

OR (come to think of it while writing this, because of your suggestion):

measuring before pressing the shutter button, it measures from the shutter cloth, which has this "speckled" patron, so maybe the shutter time "guessed" by the camera is different from the time it measures when the shutter is open without a film ?

ferider said:
The OM2 measures exposure times off the film. When there is no film in it, the black pressure plate will lead to wrong times ..... Chances are very high that your camera is fine. You can put a piece of paper in it and will see how it changes the camera behavior.
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gliderbee said:
measuring before pressing the shutter button, it measures from the shutter cloth, which has this "speckled" patron, so maybe the shutter time "guessed" by the camera is different from the time it measures when the shutter is open without a film ?
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This is how it works. Found this on the internet (posted by Rick Oleson) and it matches what I remember:

In the OM2, there are 2 totally separate exposure systems. The needle in the viewfinder is driven by 2 CdS cells next to the eyepiece.... this takes care of manual mode, and also gives you a general idea of the speed you're going to get in Auto.

But the speed in Auto mode is actually SET by silicon cells in the floor of the mirror box. This cell is facing backwards and looks at light reflecting off of the film surface (or in the case of fast shutter speeds where there isn't much film to look at, it looks at the pattern of dots on the first shutter curtain).

Cheers,

Roland.
 
This thread has made me lust for a chrome OM-2n and a MC 50/1.4. How much should I be willing to part with for such a pair?
 
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Ok, film is developed and looking perfect, so I learned something and I'm happy. I remembered the separate metering system in the OM-2, but never realized this behaviour without film would be a direct consequence; I probably never dry-fired it in bad light.

Thanks all for your help.

Stefan.

ferider said:
This is how it works. Found this on the internet (posted by Rick Oleson) and it matches what I remember:

In the OM2, there are 2 totally separate exposure systems. The needle in the viewfinder is driven by 2 CdS cells next to the eyepiece.... this takes care of manual mode, and also gives you a general idea of the speed you're going to get in Auto.

But the speed in Auto mode is actually SET by silicon cells in the floor of the mirror box. This cell is facing backwards and looks at light reflecting off of the film surface (or in the case of fast shutter speeds where there isn't much film to look at, it looks at the pattern of dots on the first shutter curtain).

Cheers,

Roland.
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