OM, I've become a Zuikoholic!

wblynch said:
You're gonna need more lenses...
Click to expand...

I knew I forgot something. :bang:

Actually, I am using two 50/1.8 lenses. One stays on the OM-3Ti so that the mount plate is not getting all scratched up. The remaining cameras share another 50/1.8 lens.

So far, I have not found a way to swap the 50/1.8 lens from one body to another without moving either the focus ring, the aperture ring, or both. So, it all has to be reset before the shutter fires. I don't recommend this as a day-to-day method of taking photographs. 😀
 
wakarimasen said:
Surely it's 'you're gonna need a bigger developing tank...'
Click to expand...

Another thing I forgot. :bang:

Nope, each roll will be processed differently.

It is taking a long time to take 36 exposures times 5:
Put a camera on a tripod; sketch the scene in a notebook (as seen through the viewfinder); spot meter the scene and record the measurements for the significant shadow area (Zone III) and the significant highlight area (Zone VII); determine the correct exposure for the shadow; predict which development technique will give the best results and write it in the notebook; take the first picture; take the camera off the tripod; (Start loop) mount the lens to the next camera, set the focus, shutter speed, and aperture, take the next picture (end loop when run out of cameras).

Developing the film will also be a long process - one roll at a time. I'll set aside a day for that.
 
Trius said:
Sid: Is that a Velbon carbon fibre tripod? I have the Geo 630, and absolutely love it.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is a Velbon Carmagne 635A. Got it off Craigslist from a man who got two of them for Christmas presents and only needed one.

There's a lot to like about it: light, sturdy, easy to use.

My only complaint is that the legs vibrate significantly when there is a stiff wind blowing (say over 15mph).
 
sreed2006 said:
I'm spot metering each scene and setting the exposure for the shadows, then taking notes on the meter readings and predicting which of the development methods will give the best results.
Click to expand...
I'm a bit confused here why you are using different bodies other than convenience. What controls have have you set up for differences in metering (differences in meter patterns between bodies, meters out of tolerances, etc.)? Are you using a different EI (setting the ASA dial to different ASA) to match exposures between cameras regardless of the meter reading? I'm just curious, so asking the questions I'd ask myself. Feel free to ignore me. 😀
 
TXForester said:
I'm a bit confused here why you are using different bodies other than convenience. What controls have have you set up for differences in metering (differences in meter patterns between bodies, meters out of tolerances, etc.)? Are you using a different EI (setting the ASA dial to different ASA) to match exposures between cameras regardless of the meter reading? I'm just curious, so asking the questions I'd ask myself. Feel free to ignore me. 😀
Click to expand...

I won't ignore you, since those are good questions. All of this is just for my education so it takes a lot of extra steps to take the pictures in a way that I will learn something useful, and that includes getting the meter readings done accurately.

After the first camera has been set up on the tripod and the composition chosen, I make a sketch of the scene in a notebook.

Then I use a handheld spot meter to do all of the metering of the scene, and record that on the sketch (the significant readings, anyway). Then I choose the shutter speed and aperture that will give me a Zone III at the selected shadow area, and write that down.

The OM-1n and OM-3Ti are manual cameras, and I put the OM-4s and the OM-2n into Manual mode. All five cameras get set to the same shutter speed and the lenses get set to the same aperture and focus distance for each five-shot sequence. One problem with this is if the light changes due to clouds, then the careful metering goes out the window - so I try only to take pictures when the light will stay constant.

As for shutter speed differences, all I can say is that John Hermanson serviced all but the OM-3Ti, so they are is in as good a shape as they can be. I don't expect that the shutter speeds are exactly the same, but they are within tolerance.

Since all five negatives are exposed exactly the same (within tolerance), the only difference in the negative's contrast should be due to the development. I look forward to getting there.


Zone System Study Kit, 2 by sreed2006, on Flickr


Zone System Study, 3 by sreed2006, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the answer and showing me I was having senior moment (early onset senility 😀 ). I've done something similar using a handheld meter or a meter from a third camera to evaluate differences in two other cameras. Don't know why I didn't think of using a handheld meter as the control. [/ insert Home Simpson D'oh! ]
 
Do you want to borrow 3 more?

Let me know...
sreed2006 said:
I knew I forgot something. :bang:

Actually, I am using two 50/1.8 lenses. One stays on the OM-3Ti so that the mount plate is not getting all scratched up. The remaining cameras share another 50/1.8 lens.

So far, I have not found a way to swap the 50/1.8 lens from one body to another without moving either the focus ring, the aperture ring, or both. So, it all has to be reset before the shutter fires. I don't recommend this as a day-to-day method of taking photographs. 😀
Click to expand...
 
Nice start Pgadler. It's a beautiful set.

Welcome to the asylum.

-Bill L.

pgadler said:
Well, You've got to start somewhere to someday possibly reach the impressive gear line-ups in this thread. And this is all Your fault.... 🙂

I started reading this thread, and have just required an OM-2n with 50/1.4.

8104761467_31800c8cee.jpg
Click to expand...
 
TXForester said:
Thanks for the answer and showing me I was having senior moment (early onset senility 😀 ). I've done something similar using a handheld meter or a meter from a third camera to evaluate differences in two other cameras. Don't know why I didn't think of using a handheld meter as the control. [/ insert Home Simpson D'oh! ]
Click to expand...

Getting the metering right is tricky. Someone posted here awhile back the old saying, "A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure." I figure it's the same with light meters - that's why I just use one meter for this study.
 
Sid, that's a good strategy for this exercise. I know very little about calibrating meters, but I do know that a meter calibration is only good for a certain range of EVs. That is, calibrating from say EV 4 to 13 may yield different results than EV 1 to 10. IOW, most meters are not linear over their entire exposure range. At least that's my understanding.
 
Trius said:
Sid, that's a good strategy for this exercise. I know very little about calibrating meters, but I do know that a meter calibration is only good for a certain range of EVs. That is, calibrating from say EV 4 to 13 may yield different results than EV 1 to 10. IOW, most meters are not linear over their entire exposure range. At least that's my understanding.
Click to expand...

They are if properly calibrated that is not an issue. Getting them calibrated correctly was hard in the old days of meters that read with moving needles, and what you said was often true, but modern digital meters can be and should be absolutely perfect across the whole range.

I have a Minolta Autometer IIIf, a Minolta Flash Meter IV and a Minolta Flash Meter VI. They match each other perfectly, not even 1/10 stop difference. Not only do they agree with each other, but I've shot with slide film in all light levels with them and never had an imperfect exposure.
 
I have seen a OM-4 for sale here in NZ at what appears to be a good price and as you do I have been considering adopting it. Do all OM-4s use batteries at a high rate or is it just some, or only from a certain serial number? This one is a plain OM-4 not Ti or anything like that.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/electronics-photography/film-cameras/35mm-slr/auction-526374231.htm
If no one knows I'll just ask the seller but of course he might not tell me the whole truth!
I'm sure it has been mentioned somewhere in the last 115 pages but I don't want to have to read them all :bang:
 
That's what I remember reading ... Thanks

I had an OM-2 SP and it ate batteries like they were lollies :-( Don't really want to go through that again.
 
There's a lot of love here for the single digit bodies. I recently purchased an OM-40 for $25.

I definitely like the handling of the OM-40. I took it on vacation for two weeks. I'm looking forward to seeing the results.

Anyone else using the consumer grade OMs?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Thread viewers

Number of users viewing the thread: 1
Back
Top Bottom