OM, I've become a Zuikoholic!

50/3.5:

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recent shots, acros in xtol 1:1

btw flickr's compression algorithm appears to have been updated to be even worse as my photos now look even more oversharpened while losing even more fine detail. the second to last shot here had a remarkable negative even if the shot itself is a bit of a technical exercise rather than anything too exciting.

50/3.5 (I really love this lens, have I said that enough times?)

Untitled by redisburning, on Flickr
 
Another question for all you OM addicts: I recently bought an omG off the 'bay by accident (I was the only bidder 6 hrs out - oops) and want to know if I can swap the OMG prism with the slightly deteriorated prism in my OM1. Are they the same part? Seems like it shares the same body as the OM10.

Also the brightness of the omG's viewing screen made me say WOW! Is this the Lumi-micron2-14 or something equivalent? It's like taking a pair of sunglasses off of the[FONT=Trebucht MS, Arial, helvetica]1-3[FONT=Trebucht MS, Arial, helvetica][/FONT][FONT=Trebucht MS, Arial, helvetica]screen [/FONT]on my OM1! Too bad they don't appear swappable with the OM1 😡.

A few digital camera scans ...(made using the OM 50/3.5 macro! more to come with that lens)

Grand Canyon, 35-70mm 3.5-4.5 zoom[/FONT], Elitechrome 100
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And my pup - 50mm 1.8, Caffenol CM, Arista Edu 100
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The prism from any ~broken~ OM-1/2/3/4, OM-10/20/30/40, OM-F/G/PC will work.

But why chop up a fine, working camera? There are plenty of broken OM's you can tear apart for their prism. The most common dead OM's are the OM-2Sp and OM-PC. A dead OM-PC also has the equivalent of a 2-13 focusing screen that you can reuse.

If you tear the OM-G open to get its prism you will not get it together again since you have to pull all the electronics out of the top and they are very delicate.

Sell, gift or use your good OM-G. It would be unfair to kill it on purpose.
 
wblynch said:
The prism from any ~broken~ OM-1/2/3/4, OM-10/20/30/40, OM-F/G/PC will work.

But why chop up a fine, working camera? There are plenty of broken OM's you can tear apart for their prism. The most common dead OM's are the OM-2Sp and OM-PC. A dead OM-PC also has the equivalent of a 2-13 focusing screen that you can reuse.

If you tear the OM-G open to get its prism you will not get it together again since you have to pull all the electronics out of the top and they are very delicate.

Sell, gift or use your good OM-G. It would be unfair to kill it on purpose.
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Thanks for the advice - I did not know it would be so intensive to swap screens and prisms on the OMG. I intend to use this OMG as well - just after improving my OM 1 a bit, so perhaps best bet will be to look for a cheap parts body.
 
wblynch said:
A dead OM-PC also has the equivalent of a 2-13 focusing screen that you can reuse.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the focusing screen of an OM-PC is not the same as a 2-13 focusing screen. This confusion appears to be based on Olympus' referring to the OM-PC screen as a "lumi-micron screen" and the fact that Olympus also refers to the 2-13 and 2-4 screens as "lumi-micron" screens as well.
Thinking they were the same, I harvested a screen from an OM-PC and put it into an OM-4 camera and compared it to a real 2-13 focusing screen. They are different. The OM-PC screen is not as bright or sharp appearing. The OM-PC screen is somewhere between the OM standard 1-13 screen and a rare 2-13 screen in terms of brightness and sharpness when in focus. However, the OM-PC screen has no tab to make sure that you are inserting it correct side up and the metered manual exposures on an OM-1👎 and OM-2👎 will be a bit off and require exposure compensation. The OM-2👎 will give correct exposures in automatic mode without compensation for the OM-PC screen as the automatic exposures are determined via the film plane, not via the light measured off the focusing screen.
 
dtcls100 said:
Unfortunately, the focusing screen of an OM-PC is not the same as a 2-13 focusing screen. This confusion appears to be based on Olympus' referring to the OM-PC screen as a "lumi-micron screen" and the fact that Olympus also refers to the 2-13 and 2-4 screens as "lumi-micron" screens as well.
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Ah, this is very good to know. Thanks.
 
Hi,

I agree about hacking into their cameras but - if you've (say) an OM-1 - then you'll have to do it (or get an Olympus Technician) and the OM10 is a good prism donor. Plus there's millions of the OM10's about. I just wish I could fit the screens from the last models into the OM-1 as some of them are (literally) brilliant.

Regards, David
 
I took my OM-1n apart. Easy.
I removed my prism to check for any foam damage (none). Easy.
I put my prism back in. Easy
Putting the rest of it back together...not so much. The part I really struggled with was the film rewind lever, but in the end I dropped a tiny screw down where one of the shutter curtains lives and couldn't get it out. Way beyond me so I took it in to get reassembled.

Not wanting to turn you off, I'm usually pretty handy with a screwdriver/etc, but just know when to give up! 😀 😀 😀

I was watching an almost mint 1-4N screen on the 'Bay and then forgot to bid. Went for $12.50. :bang:

I believe if you modify the oversized tab on the 2-4 and 2-13 screens you can fit them in your OM-1 with correct TTL metering. If you dare.
 
Mystyler said:
I believe if you modify the oversized tab on the 2-4 and 2-13 screens you can fit them in your OM-1 with correct TTL metering. If you dare.
Click to expand...

They will fit yes, but the metering will unfortunately not be correct. It is also not possible to calibrate the meter for correct display with these focusing screens under all lighting conditions.

The 2-series screens offers the brightest viewfinder image known to man, however. The view through my (now sold) OM-3Ti was brighter even then a Leica M finder - and that doesn't even have a focusing screen in it 🙂

Amazing amazing amazing as the 2-series screens are, I in the end preferred the darker but more accurate (to my eyes) ground-glass + glass condenser lens screens of my Nikon F.
 
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