One final question for the converted......

Chrisso, if you have photos and film lying about that you want digitized you'll definitely want a neg scanner.

For me the RD-1 would mean can keep shooting an RF camera but no longer would have to spend tons on film and development, and days on scanning the lot.

I'm not too worried about being left behind. There are so many fields I have no knowledge of that I'm not too worried about digital photography. And as photography isn't my means of life I can take as much time as I want to get to know as much as I want about digital photography. Besides, learning new things, especially when it seems a daunting task, is fun. :)
 
A lot of you keep talking about hours spent scanning film.
I tend to scan the few shots that are truly keepers.
I might scan two or three images off a roll of 35.
I'd be lucky if I get one outstanding image (well 'outstanding' for me at least) from each roll of film after scanning and processing in Photo Shop.
 
How can you tell just from looking at the neg? I can't. Only when I see them full size on the screen (that is, after they've been scanned) can I tell whether a shot is a keeper or not.
 
I can tell - if I'm looking at transparancies, or a lab contact sheet.
I'm often unhappy with the subject, or composition. I usually take 3 or 4 shots for each picture anyway (more if I'm doing landscape with changing light). I often only have 5 or 6 scenes I want to capture per roll of film.
Therefore I can pretty much weed out all but one or two versions of one or two images I want (from each roll).
Then it's a case of scanning and processing to see which is a sharp picture, with the subject how I want it and the light I'm looking for.
 
chrisso said:
On the other hand, I love the idea of the RD-1, the ability to see ones work in progress (no more wasted rolls of film). I'm also concerned about being left behind by the digital movement. It's already a steep learning curve IMO.

One great thing about the R-D1 for the traditional RF shooter is that basically there is no learning curve. As long as you keep the LCD screen folded away in its stowed position, you can use it just like a C-V Bessa if you want:

  • You set shutter speeds by turning a dial.
  • You set apertures by turning a ring.
  • You focus by aligning the RF patch on the subject.
  • You get ready for the next shot by stroking a lever with your thumb.

No exposure mode selector, no multi-program settings, no multi-pattern meter switch, no nuthin'. If you leave the camera set to raw mode, you don't even have to choose between color/grayscale or make any image-processing settings (you can do all that later when you "develop" your shots with the raw-conversion utility, so you can see what it does to the image.)

One thing I've been re-learning from using the R-D1 vs. my Nikon D-100: if you already know pretty much what settings you need in a particular situation, it is so much quicker and easier to make them directly with manual controls, rather than having to struggle with a lot of automation overrides. I can get good pictures with the D-100 if I devote enough attention to outsmarting it; with the R-D1, I still need to think about the photographic process, but I barely need to think about camera operation at all.
 
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Chris,

I scan past 35mm negative work (primarily B&W) on a Minolta 5400 and am very happy with the results. I've had drum scans done of the same work and they aren't appreciably better (shocking perhaps, but true). That said, I've shot virtually all work since 2002 on digital and would not go back.

Sean
 
>> I can get good pictures with the D-100 if I devote enough attention to outsmarting it; <<

I take the opposite approach. Rather then trying to outsmart it, my normal default is all manual. Then I just turn on any automation that I know will do what I want, and/or will do it faster than I could.

So rather than outsmarting it, I selectively delegate any tasks to it that I already know its good at. About the only thing that I leave on most of the time is the matrix metering. Its almost foolproof with perfect exposures, and I rarely ever need to tweak it in post. I occasionally use spot metering, or even a hand led spot for tight metering.

AF comes a close second, but only for sports, action, or shooting people or models with motion to them. Once you know the exact placement of the AF sensors (not the viewfinder markings) and how to use them, its deadly accurate and faster at focusing than I ever could be. For anything that's not moving, the AF is usually turned off. Most everything else is always off, or only used occasionally.

For sports or fast action, there is nothing in the world that can beat AF with AF-s lenses, Dynamic motion tracking, matrix metering, (or Canons equivalent) at capturing a series of perfectly focused, perfectly exposed series of shots at 8 frames per second. I am always amazed when I do air to air or ground to air shots of air shows or air racing at the shear number of perfectly done images I can get of subject moving at 200mph. I had a L39 Albatross Russian Fighter jet on a fly by for a photo pass for me. At 200mph, I got 43 perfectly exposed and focused images in the brief few seconds that it took to make the run. I couldn't image how many passes I would have had to ask him to make if I was shooting with a manual camera. And at the cost of jet fuel these days...

When I don't need the automation, the R-D1 has got to be the most logical choice for me. I love the R3a, and the R-D1 is the perfect manual digital camera IMO. The price is the only thing holding me back. With upgrading my two S2 Pro's to two D2x's, I just can't justify the R-D1 on top of that since the D2x's can do anything the R-D1 can (with the exception of using M mount lenses). I need the D2x's because of the type of work I do, so its hard to justify the R-D1 at that cost as a personal toy.

My ideal camera bag would contain a pair of Nikon D2xs with a good selection of AF-S lenses, and 2 SB-800 wireless strobes. Right next to it would be a R-D1 with a 21mm, 35mm, 40mm, and 75mm! Nirvana!! But for the time being, it will have to be the R3a that takes its place.
 
Chris

The solution is obvious. Simply get both a scanner and RD-1. You can scan your old film at your leisure and get a quicker work flow with the RD-1. It is not tongue in cheek either. The newer model of Epson flat bed scanners are reputed to give great results and will do 35mm, med and large format. They are also not very costly.

Bob
 
I've got the Epson 4870 scannner. I was impressed with the results I get from medium format and 4x5 transparencies and negatives. I got it to use for personal scans not thinking it would be good enough for my professional work. But I'ved decided to forego having my work stuff professionally scanned anymore. The scans I am getting from the 6x6cm and 4x5 images are excellent.

The 4870 is highly recommended in my opinion.
 
I take the opposite approach. Rather then trying to outsmart it, my normal default is all manual. Then I just turn on any automation that I know will do what I want, and/or will do it faster than I could.

This sounds like it could turn into a microcosmic recap of the entire SLR-vs-RF debate. As we all know, the SLR people won, at least in terms of numbers. An SLR is more versatile, more efficient, etc. In terms of churning out a large number of good pictures, an SLR will always win -- and the more automated, the better.

On the other hand, if you're willing to give up the certainty of a lot of good pictures to gamble in hopes of getting one great picture, then the choice becomes a lot more individualized.



[Before I go any farther, let me say that while it sounds very noble to talk about forgoing good pictures in hopes of getting a great one, in many cases that is not either a practical or desirable option.

If you're shooting for money, and come back with nothing because "there just wasn't a great picture to be had," the client probably will be upset. He wasn't paying for a great picture, he was paying for usable pictures. Ditto if you're shooting your kid's baptism or similar occasion. Nobody wants the one iconic image of a lifetime - they just want a decent shot of the kid's big moment.

I understand all that. But let's deal for the moment only with those idealistic occasions in which you can at least plausibly hope to be gunning for a great picture.]




Anyway, getting back to what types of cameras/features/settings work best in this highly individualized pursuit of great photos, I feel that it varies a lot depending on what you shoot, where, and how. For instance, our previous poster is an aviation guy, and I'm a theater guy. So...

About the only thing that I leave on most of the time is the matrix metering. Its almost foolproof with perfect exposures, and I rarely ever need to tweak it in post. I occasionally use spot metering, or even a hand led spot for tight metering.

And I almost never use matrix metering. It's almost never right. In theaters, rehearsal halls, etc., the light is always coming at the camera from all kinds of weird directions. Not only does matrix metering not know what to make of these situations, but I don't know how to override its recommendations -- because I don't know how it might have overcompensated or miscompensated its readings in the first place. It's like asking the guy next to you what exposure he's using, without knowing what speed film he has or whether he's even a competent photographer or not.

My digital SLR almost never comes off spot mode, just because even if it's mis-reading, I know exactly what it read and can compensate from there. Center-weighted is a pretty good second choice, although it requires a bit more experience to adjust it.

For sports or fast action, there is nothing in the world that can beat AF with AF-s lenses, Dynamic motion tracking, matrix metering, (or Canons equivalent) at capturing a series of perfectly focused, perfectly exposed series of shots at 8 frames per second. I am always amazed when I do air to air or ground to air shots of air shows or air racing at the shear number of perfectly done images I can get...

This is another illustration of how what you shoot makes a big difference. If there's nothing in the background except blank sky, I'm sure dynamic AF works great.

On the other hand, if there are lots of highly detailed objects at similar distances, you could easily get 40 frames focused on the wrong object! This happens to me all the time in theaters, where the important subjects (blurry, amorphous human beings) are posed right in front of sharp, contrasty, angular scenery that makes an irresistible target for the tiny brain of the dynamic AF system.

...the D2x's can do anything the R-D1 can (with the exception of using M mount lenses). I need the D2x's because of the type of work I do, so its hard to justify the R-D1 at that cost as a personal toy.

My ideal camera bag would contain a pair of Nikon D2xs with a good selection of AF-S lenses, and 2 SB-800 wireless strobes....

Another illustration of the importance of what you want to shoot, and how. Carrying around a big bag of equipment gives you more versatility - but it exacts a big cost in mobility.

This is an important factor for me: sometimes a chance at the best picture means climbing up into the second balcony, or squeezing in behind the piano, or hanging off the ladder up to the fly loft, or whatever.

When I'm lugging my digital SLR gear, I often don't even bother to explore these types of opportunities, just because "there's no way I can get in there with all this stuff." If all I've got is an RF camera and two lenses in a belt bag, I'll go anywhere. Often it doesn't pay off, but sometimes it does.


What I'm saying here is not that I'm right and the other poster is wrong -- but that there IS no "right" answer except what's right for you.

That's the reason I got back into RFs, after moving through a selection of higher-and-higher-tech SLRs and bigger and bigger collections of lenses. I was getting good pictures, all right, pictures that satisfied the people who use my photos.

But when I looked back through several years' worth of old contact sheets and prints, I noticed that almost all my best pictures had been made with an RF camera and one or two lenses.

So I decided I'd better start trying to find my way back to that, and that's how I got to where I am now. I'm not claiming I'm "there" yet, and of course it's a journey, not a destination anyway.

But what I finally figured out was that I can't be the kind of photographer I want to be unless I give myself at least the option of choosing an RF camera outfit... and that's why the R-D1 made sense for me, even though I had to sell a lot of other nice stuff to afford it.

As always, of course: Your mileage may vary!
 
I though my point was simple, that a SLR set to fully manual is akin to a Bessa R2! Manual exposure, manual focus, with absolutely no automation! Basically that is no reason to try to out think the camera. Turn everything off, and only turn on what you need and know works. It wasn't a SLR vs RF, which somehow now it seems to be...sigh...

On the other hand, if you're willing to give up the certainty of a lot of good pictures to gamble in hopes of getting one great picture, then the choice becomes a lot more individualized.....

This whole line of thought really makes me pause! This has nothing at all to do with the camera, but the style or type of shooting one will be doing. Whether an RF or a SLR, both are more than capable of creating bad, mediocre, good, or great results. The only difference is the feature set and its relevancy to the particular photo taking opportunity. But even this wasn't my point, as all that automation can be turned off, making the high tech wonder nothing more than a high quality manual digital camera similar to the R-D1 (aside from the obvious RF limitations).


Anyway, getting back to what types of cameras/features/settings work best in this highly individualized pursuit of great photos, I feel that it varies a lot depending on what you shoot, where, and how. For instance, our previous poster is an aviation guy, and I'm a theater guy. So...

I shouldn't be classified into such a niche because of one example. I am far from an aviation guy! I shoot professionally, which means I shoot in a lot of differing situations. Sure, I've shot aviation, I've hung out of helicopters doing aerials. But that's the minority of my work. I've shot far more studio stills, product shots, corporate events, editorials, theater, film, movie sets, motor sports, environmentals, macro, industrial, annual reports, architecture, scenics, nature, and even some fashion. What I haven't done is traditional sports, weddings, and portraits. The majority of my work is corporate, product, and editorials. The editorial work covers a lot ground from studio to location, and all kinds of shooting scenarios.


And I almost never use matrix metering. It's almost never right. In theaters, rehearsal halls, etc.

Theater is one of the definite situations that I turn off the matrix and use spot or handheld. Depending on the lighting, I may just select an exposure value and leave it, or use spot metering and AE lock to dynamically alter the exposure depending on the lighting. Night photography, heavy backlit, and other challenging lighting conditions are other instances that I turn off matrix. This doesn't take any weight from my statement that I use matrix metering most of the time. I do, and it works perfectly! The nice feature is that I can decide when to use to, and not have to try to outsmart it. I just turn it off and use alternate methods.

SO yea, turn it off, and don't try to compensate for it. that's the beauty of automation. Use it when it works, turn it off and run manual when you know it won't be right, or are not sure how well it will work. That was the thrust of my first post. Don't try to out think it, only delegate when you know it will give you the results you want. Theatre is not one of them from my experience.


quote:For sports or fast action, there is nothing in the world that can beat AF with AF-s lenses, Dynamic motion tracking, matrix metering, (or Canons equivalent) at capturing a series of perfectly focused, perfectly exposed series of shots at 8 frames per second. I am always amazed when I do air to air or ground to air shots of air shows or air racing at the shear number of perfectly done images I can get...

This is another illustration of how what you shoot makes a big difference. If there's nothing in the background except blank sky, I'm sure dynamic AF works great.

Either you haven't tried it, or are shooting with the early stuff. Dynamic tracking works even with distracting backgrounds. In fact, it can even hold focus if an object crosses in front of the path of your object. Ie, you are focused on a a runner rounding third base, and another player passes between you and the guy on third. It will continue to track the guy on third since it uses predictive focus to estimate when the runner at third should be. The guy crossing is outside of those parameters, so it uses the predictive data and focuses where it assumes the runner will be based on its history of speed, angle, etc. When the closer guy passes out of frame, it recaptures the guy on third right where it predicted! I tried this a lot with my daughters softball season (she was on 4 teams, grueling schedule for me :( ). I was skeptical so I tried to fool it as often as possible. The damn thing really works. Busy background, things crossing in from and behind. Nice!! I really got to learn how it works, and when not to use it. Its supposed to be even better with the D2x.

On the other hand, if there are lots of highly detailed objects at similar distances, you could easily get 40 frames focused on the wrong object! This happens to me all the time in theaters, where the important subjects (blurry, amorphous human beings) are posed right in front of sharp, contrasty, angular scenery that makes an irresistible target for the tiny brain of the dynamic AF system.

That hasn't been my case at all, but then again I've never used it in the theater. Its not designed for that type of environment, nor is AF really. Unless the theater is bright, you could have all sorts of focusing issues which would make the dynamic tracking almost useless. I'm not surprised that you had issues with dynamic tracking, and the manual specifically cites those conditions as situations that will return poor AF results. Turn it off and use manual focusing, rather than try to outsmart it.

quote:...the D2x's can do anything the R-D1 can (with the exception of using M mount lenses). I need the D2x's because of the type of work I do, so its hard to justify the R-D1 at that cost as a personal toy.

My ideal camera bag would contain a pair of Nikon D2xs with a good selection of AF-S lenses, and 2 SB-800 wireless strobes....



Another illustration of the importance of what you want to shoot, and how. Carrying around a big bag of equipment gives you more versatility - but it exacts a big cost in mobility.......

>> bunch of RF vs SLR comparisons <<

You shoot theater. For me, theatre, film, or corporate events with a stage driven presentation with theater type lighting are always a manual focusing, sport metering AE or hand held meter with manual exposure affair. Whether you use a R-D1, R3a, or a D1x to do that doesn't matter. Either will work perfectly fine if you understand your camera well, and know when to use the features available to you. Putting a camera on auto, whether its a R3a with only AE, or a high end SLR with tons of features is not the way to get good results. Automation is a tool to be used as a helper, and not as a crutch. Its up to the photographer to know when a feature is either, and choose appropriately.

I don't know why this has turned to a SLR vs RF argument. I wasn't arguing the point at all. If you read it again, I was merely stating that you should think more in terms of turning on features for you that you know work in the situation you are in, rather then trying having all the automation on and trying to out think it or compensate for it which you stated you were always doing. If you reversed your process to only turning on what you need, things would be much smoother. I followed up with one situation where the automation clearly works, as a demonstration when it makes sense to turn it on, rather than leave it off. It certainly wasn't a knock against RF, or a RF vs SLR debate.

Another illustration of the importance of what you want to shoot, and how. Carrying around a big bag of equipment gives you more versatility - but it exacts a big cost in mobility.

This is an important factor for me: sometimes a chance at the best picture means climbing up into the second balcony, or squeezing in behind the piano, or hanging off the ladder up to the fly loft, or whatever.

When I'm lugging my digital SLR gear, I often don't even bother to explore these types of opportunities, just because "there's no way I can get in there with all this stuff." If all I've got is an RF camera and two lenses in a belt bag, I'll go anywhere. Often it doesn't pay off, but sometimes it does.

I always explore any opportunity regardless of what I am carrying. It doesn't mean I have to drag it all with me. I can easily drop the SLR in the bag and leave it, grab a smaller camera, and head up to the balcony. Even so, I don't find a SLR and a couple lenses such a burden that I wouldn't carry it anywhere I would take a RF.

What I'm saying here is not that I'm right and the other poster is wrong -- but that there IS no "right" answer except what's right for you.

Exactly!!!!!

Whether you agree with me or not, lets not do the RF vs SLR debate because you are exactly right in your statement above. I love RDs. I also love SLRs. I could argue the finer points regarding either regarding any given situation, but I would not want to be required to choose one over the other. Fortunately, I am in a position I don't have to, and work pays for it. For those that have to choose, one system will fit their needs better than the other, and I would never try to covert them away from their choice.

Fact is, if I was not working professional, I would have a very hard time choosing between something like a Hassy 500, a Nikon D70, a Epson R-D1, or a nice M6 setup. Why can't I have them all!!!
 
I think we've adequately covered both points of view here, and probably already have exceeded the interest level of everyone except ourselves.

Where I personally want to wind this up is by re-asserting that equipment and work-practice choices depend on individual goals.

For a working professional who needs to cover a wide variety of assignments, it's quite likely that a D2x outfit is the right tool, and an R-D1 would be (as you said) simply a toy.

For someone pursuing photography as a means of personal expression, it might very well be the other way around.

Usual disclaimers apply, including my favorite: "The smallest effective dose should be used."
 
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I always explore any opportunity regardless of what I am carrying. It doesn't mean I have to drag it all with me. I can easily drop the SLR in the bag and leave it, grab a smaller camera, and head up to the balcony. Even so, I don't find a SLR and a couple lenses such a burden that I wouldn't carry it anywhere I would take a RF.

Okay, one last war story on this thread. I'm the guy who once got kicked out of the proscenium box at a dress rehearsal of Gounod's 'Romeo et Juliette' simply because the conductor didn't like the LOOK of my SLR and 200/2.8 lens! (The publicist who had commissioned the photos was livid, but there was nothing she could do. The conductor is the boss.)

Nowadays small 'n' stealthy is my mantra, and whether it's rational or not, I just feel more agile when I'm shooting with an RF!
 
For a working professional who needs to cover a wide variety of assignments, it's quite likely that a D2x outfit is the right tool, and an R-D1 would be (as you said) simply a toy.

Toy was used in a less than serious sense just as many of us here would classify all our hobby camera gear as 'personal toys'. In fact, search for toys on this site and see how often we call our cameras 'toys'. You took it in a literal sense, which it was never indented to be when I wrote it. My RV falls under my toy category, as do my snowmobiles. But that is not meant to say they are 'toys' in the literal sense.

Okay, one last war story on this thread. I'm the guy who once got kicked out of the proscenium box at a dress rehearsal of Gounod's 'Romeo et Juliette' simply because the conductor didn't like the LOOK of my SLR and 200/2.8 lens! (The publicist who had commissioned the photos was livid, but there was nothing she could do. The conductor is the boss.)

Nowadays small 'n' stealthy is my mantra, and whether it's rational or not, I just feel more agile when I'm shooting with an RF!

It could have been just the opposite if you showed up with a smaller less obtrusive camera, only to find out that the only shooting position you were allowed to use was so far away that what you really needed was a 400mm f2.8 to cover the subject properly! Either way, that's exactly why I carry a big camera bag! I can always leave what I don't need in the car, or in a closet on location, but I can't use what I need if its back on the shelf in the studio!!! But most importantly, I always always make contact with those in charge at the location to work out the details. Not doing so creates problems such as this one, and further, not being prepared corners the photographer into less than ideal solutions. If I can't work out all the details for whatever reason, I advise the editor or art director there are open risks, and let them either work the issue directly, advise on how to proceed, or assume the risks that I may not get what they need. But rarely does that happen.

"My ideal camera bag would contain a pair of Nikon D2xs with a good selection of AF-S lenses, and 2 SB-800 wireless strobes. Right next to it would be a R-D1 with a 21mm, 35mm, 40mm, and 75mm! Nirvana!! But for the time being, it will have to be the R3a that takes its place."

I think I said this before but was scoffed at:) However, your example is an perfect example why my camera bag is as big as it is. And it's actually much bigger than that if you count the film bodies (F5, FA), the times I take the medium format or large format equipment, and other accessories, gadgets, lighting, reflectors, etc. And no, I don't carry it around all day, I use a smaller shoulder bag for the 'users', and store the rest on site somewhere close by.

I'll finish with a brief statement then just move on.

I never intended to argue RF vs SLR, big bag vs little bag, or the usefulness of an RFs vs SLRs in specific situations. That part of this conversation was steered by you. You stated you were having issues with a digital SLR trying to outsmart its automation. I responded only to tell you to turn off all the automation and think in manual terms and your issues would be gone. Shooting in a theater environment with a R2 and a hand held meter is no different than shooting in the theater with a D2x set to manual mode and a hand held meter. There is no difference as they are both manual cameras at that point with a thinking photographer and an external meter. What you do from there is entirely up to the photographer and not the camera.

Based on your statements, you had the automation on and were instead trying to outsmart the camera. Much like setting the cruise control on your car, then trying to figure out how to get it to go up and down hills without surging on the accelerator all the time. It wasn't designed to do that, so turn it off and use your foot. I was merely suggesting you do the same. The D100 (I think that is what you were using) isn't designed to use AF in a theater, nor was matrix metering designed to be used under theatrical lighting settings. In fact most camera manuals state something to that effect in the metering and AF sections regarding dim lighting, spot lights, etc, and suggest the AF is turned off and metering set to spot or center weighted. That's where I said to step back and go fully manual, then only delegate what features were designed to work successfully under those conditions.

I then added an instance where the automation does indeed work well as an example of when one might want to turn on all that automation. It was meant to show that while the camera can indeed be reduced to a fully manual camera, there are times that you would want to turn on most of the advanced features it offers. It wasn't meant to say the SLR is better, or that the automation relieves the photographer of the responsibility to decide when its appropriate to use it. We could spend days arguing different scenarios in the usage of SLRs vs RFs, and both be right in equal parts. Very non-productive and not worth going there!!

So, please read my first post with this in mind, and I think you will see that it wasn't negative toward RF's, slanted to SLR's, or even pro or con on either type of camera. It certainly wasn't suggesting that you abandon the R-D1 in favor of a SLR, rethink the scenarios in which you might choose one over the other, or trying to demote the R-D1 to toy status. Rather, I was merely suggesting that if you re-thought how you approach the automation (default off vs default on), it would resolve the issues you were having. If you felt it was otherwise, I apologize for not being concise, as it wasn't my intent.
 
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Could you elaborate on which medium-format cameras with digital backs are about the same price as high-end DSLRs?

All the medium-format digital backs I've seen are about the same price as a really good used car...

A used 645M (16mp) digital back for most common MF cameras can be had for around the price of a 35mm Nikon D2x or Canon 1D MkII, or around $4-5K. A brand new low end MF back can be had around the same price as the new 35mm Canon IDs MkII, or around $8-9K. The higher end MF backs are in the $12-20K range.

If you don't already own a MF system that is compatible, then the cost goes up dramatically. Although that also applies if you don't already own all the pieces of a 35mm digital system. The body (or back in this case) is only part of the cost of the entire system.
 
If this thread is to continue, let's drag it back to the pro's and con's of the RD-1 and the arguments for or against scanning film instead.
 
Well, Chris, I think the pros and cons of scanning have been discussed already. It's time consuming but gives good results.

The pros and cons of the RD-1 are already being discussed by JWL (iirc) in his excellent user reviews based on his experiences shooting at 'his' ballet college.
 
RD-1 Mixed lighting

RD-1 Mixed lighting

"I'm a bit confused by your mixed lighting comment though. Do you mean that it has a better built-in white balance, or that it doesn't clip individual color channels as easily under severe lighting (red channel under tungsten for example), or...?"

I don't believe that the RD-1 had better built in white balance, as a matter of fact, the auto white balance is technically really weak. I'll post some test images in early January that illustrate this fact. However, that technical weakness, may be an artistic strength in the camera. I shot some images in a Xmas show in a room with strong mixed lighting (flourescent, tungsten and daylight) . In particular, there was one shot that had some dancers positioned next to a window in front of a hallway door with tungsten light. They were back lit with tungsten, side lit by flourescent on one side and side lit by daylight on the other side. I can only say, that the camera worked really well, the image was captured beautifully and there were no problems in the white dresses that I have often scene with other digital cameras in similar situations.

The auto white balance is quite gentle on the RD-1 If I shoot an image under tungesten lighting using auto white, there is a huge difference using the tungsten setting on the camera. The auto balance is much warmer. This is the only digital camera that I would recommend leaving on auto WB. Naturally, if you are shooting in raw mode, this really doesn't matter...
EPSN0100.jpg
 
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