Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Thanks for that info! By "new OS" do you mean that Mac Snow Leopard OS-X would be too new for the Nikon scanners--the 5000, or the Coolscan 5 or Coolscan 4?
Opinions: Best Under-$1000 35mm Scanner?
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Thanks for that info! By "new OS" do you mean that Mac Snow Leopard OS-X would be too new for the Nikon scanners--the 5000, or the Coolscan 5 or Coolscan 4?
kiemchacsu
Well-known
Some key differences Coolscan IV vs 4000
- max 2900 dpi vs 4000dpi
- 12bit vs 14bit analogue to digital conversion
- slower vs faster scanning
- lower DR vs higher DR (I believed could be better for colour scan, though I havent tested)
I'm using Coolscan IV mainly for BW, totally happy with it.
- max 2900 dpi vs 4000dpi
- 12bit vs 14bit analogue to digital conversion
- slower vs faster scanning
- lower DR vs higher DR (I believed could be better for colour scan, though I havent tested)
I'm using Coolscan IV mainly for BW, totally happy with it.
maddoc
... likes film again.
Coolscan V ED and 4000ED are quite identical regarding specs, 14 Bit max, 4000 dpi, similar dynamic range. The 4000ED has IEEE1394 and can handle complete rolls up to 40 frames with the SA-30 (similar to the 5000ED) while the V ED has USB (as I remember) and only works with the SA-21 film strip adapter up to 6 frames. The 4000ED is the only model that came with the FH-3 film strip carrier, for the V ED and 5000ED the FH-3 has to be purchased separately. The 5000ED A/D is 16Bit and reportedly faster than the 4000ED.
V ED and 5000ED can still be serviced by Nikon (Japan), while there are no more spare parts for the 4000ED or older available.
V ED and 5000ED can still be serviced by Nikon (Japan), while there are no more spare parts for the 4000ED or older available.
muser53
MUSER53
For what it is worth I purchased a new iMac in July and my Coolscan 8000 runs fine with the combo of Nikon scan 4.2 and Snow Leopard. It is my understanding that Lion and Nikon scan are not a workable combo as Lion does not support Rosetta. So....if you run Lion you will need the appropriate version of silverfast to use a Nikon Scanner.
Oh how I wish I had the space for a real darkroom!!!!!
Paul
Vincent.G
Well-known
Gabor
Can 5000ED scan 120 format negatives?
Any problems with current new OS from Windows & Mac that you know of?
Robert Lai
Well-known
Coolscan 5000 is a 35mm and APS only scanner (APS with the appropriate feeder).
Coolscan 9000 is required for 120 format film. It can also scan 35mm, but it's more tedious with this scanner. The 5000 features better 35mm automated film feeding and scanning, especially for slides with the slide feeder.
I own both scanners.
Coolscan 9000 is required for 120 format film. It can also scan 35mm, but it's more tedious with this scanner. The 5000 features better 35mm automated film feeding and scanning, especially for slides with the slide feeder.
I own both scanners.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I didn't really have any complaints about my Scan Dual IV's IQ, but it didn't quite cover the full width of negatives or slides. I'd say it covered about 24 x 32mm. I would be happier with one that covered the whole area.
Of course, I didn't like the part where it crapped out, either.
Sam N
Well-known
An alternative:
http://dpbestflow.org/camera/camera-scanning
You can buy a DSLR, a lightbox, and a nice macro lens for under $1000. You may even have all of these things lying around. Camera scanning is FAR faster even when you include the bit of extra post-processing. You can even try funky things like merging exposures to get a higher Dmax.
With my not particularly well thought out or executed setup I can scan a shot every 6 seconds or so once I get rolling, and my results are better than what you'd get with a V500/V700 flatbed.
http://dpbestflow.org/camera/camera-scanning
You can buy a DSLR, a lightbox, and a nice macro lens for under $1000. You may even have all of these things lying around. Camera scanning is FAR faster even when you include the bit of extra post-processing. You can even try funky things like merging exposures to get a higher Dmax.
With my not particularly well thought out or executed setup I can scan a shot every 6 seconds or so once I get rolling, and my results are better than what you'd get with a V500/V700 flatbed.
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Matus
Well-known
Scanning with DSLR is indeed possible, but one should not forget that the AA and Bayer interpolation gets in the way, so even 12 Mpix DSLR image will compare to maybe 8 Mpix scan. Of course - if that is enough than it can be a way to go. but you will have to find your way of getting rid of the dust as most scanners use infrared channel to subtract it.
Of course it is very easy to "scan" the image twice with different exposure so that you can increase the Dmax. In theory at least 😉
I just say - consider pro and contra for this solution.
Of course it is very easy to "scan" the image twice with different exposure so that you can increase the Dmax. In theory at least 😉
I just say - consider pro and contra for this solution.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Some of the comments are making me lean toward the Plustek, and others, toward the Coolscan V or IV, or Coolscan 4000. And Frank has me almost talked into just getting another Minolta. If I were to get a Nikon, it looks like I have to be careful to also get the right attachments for slides and film. Some seems to be offered with one or the other, and some with neither. Is it usual to have to get the scanner in one place and the attachment(s) in another? Do they not ordinarily come with everything needed, like my ScanDual IV did?
maddoc
... likes film again.
Coolscans (V, 4000ED, and 5000ED at least) should come with the connecting cables, software CD for Nikon Scan, and the film-holders. Standard for the above mentioned types were the slide-holder (one slide, framed) and film-strip-feeder SA-21 to scan up to 6 frames in a batch. Optional for the V and 5000ED but included with the 4000ED is the FH-3 strip-holder for single-frame scanning of a strip from one up to six frames. The FH-3 is perfect for film not being flat of having teared out sprocket-holes. The FH-3 has to be used with the slide-holder and every single frame to be positioned manually (very time-consuming).
maddoc
... likes film again.
Only 8000ED and 9000ED for 120 format. I only use Windows XP at home so can`t tell about software-problems. Vue-Scan might be the solution but is very difficult to use with C41 print films.
sanmich
Veteran
About quality, I think the flatbed cannot compete with the dedicated scanners for serious work. Among the dedicated scanners, There is one difference that you may consider:
The coolscans are the only ones to provide automation. You can batch scan a 6 frame strip for the V, and a full roll for the 5000. Now if you don't need that (If you want only specific frames to be scanned for your book) you better save your money, and get a minolta or a Plustek (I don't know the quality differences between them). You could even look for a cheap coolscan with no SA-21.
[Edit]: the coolscans have a tendency to flare, and to create a dark band at the side of the frame. also, when using the auto-loaders (SA-21/30) there is enough diferenc in the film height so that part of the frame may not be totally in focus.
For these reasons too, you should consider the FH-3/slide loader when working on high quality scanning.
The coolscans are the only ones to provide automation. You can batch scan a 6 frame strip for the V, and a full roll for the 5000. Now if you don't need that (If you want only specific frames to be scanned for your book) you better save your money, and get a minolta or a Plustek (I don't know the quality differences between them). You could even look for a cheap coolscan with no SA-21.
[Edit]: the coolscans have a tendency to flare, and to create a dark band at the side of the frame. also, when using the auto-loaders (SA-21/30) there is enough diferenc in the film height so that part of the frame may not be totally in focus.
For these reasons too, you should consider the FH-3/slide loader when working on high quality scanning.
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Rob-F
Likes Leicas
I seem to have narrowed it down to either the Coolscan 4000 ED vs. the Plustek 7600i ai. I'd appreciate any help with that decision. I just came very close to pulling the trigger on the Nikon (eBay), then almost got the Plustek (B&H); then decided not to get impulsive (yet).
Comments?
Comments?
thegman
Veteran
Save most of the $1000 and get a Canon FS4000US. The Epson V700 is great, but the Canon is better for just 35mm. If you're interested in larger formats though, I'd go with a flatbed like V700 or V750, cheap, can be serviced, the results are good enough for all but the most picky.
sanmich
Veteran
I have no idea how these two compare in terms of quality.
With the Nikon, you get high automation abilities.
With the Plustek you get a product still in production and more serviceable.
Peter^
Well-known
The Reflecta RPS 7200 does it for me - but I have no idea whether it is better than the plustek.
It does deliver hi-res scans, and can do a full roll automatically.
It does deliver hi-res scans, and can do a full roll automatically.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Well, the Plustek has 3600 dpi. That's not quite as good as the Coolscan 4000's, but it exceeds 300 dpi on a 11 x 17 print, the largest I can make with my Canon S9000 printer. It won't scan a single negative like Coolscan can, but I can always put the negative into a slide mount. Or maybe it can scan a single negative. I never do that, so I don't know why I should worry about it. And the Plustek will be brand new with a warranty, not a eBay pig in a poke (odd expression, that). And it's repairable, and comes with all software, including Silverfast. And there was a comment that the Nikon can leave dark edges.
OK I'm getting real close . . .
OK I'm getting real close . . .
Rogier
Rogier Willems
Unfortunately the Nikon Coolscan scanners are way out of your budget.
If you are convinced that 35mm is the only film you are going the shoot, go for the Plustek scanner. But don't pay the premium for the version with the dreaded Silverfast software witch is junk and the company who develops and sells it have a very bad sales strategy.
If you consider a flatbed I would go for the Epson V750.
I have a Canoscan 8800F with a better scanning holder for 120 film and am very happy with it. For 35mm I obtained a Plustek 7600i and think its OK.
If I had to do it again I would buy the Epson V750. The one big drawback of the Plustek film scanners is that they only scan one image at the time after witch you have to manually advance the holder. With a flatbed scanner you can scan up to twelve 35mm images at once witch is really nice.
If you are convinced that 35mm is the only film you are going the shoot, go for the Plustek scanner. But don't pay the premium for the version with the dreaded Silverfast software witch is junk and the company who develops and sells it have a very bad sales strategy.
If you consider a flatbed I would go for the Epson V750.
I have a Canoscan 8800F with a better scanning holder for 120 film and am very happy with it. For 35mm I obtained a Plustek 7600i and think its OK.
If I had to do it again I would buy the Epson V750. The one big drawback of the Plustek film scanners is that they only scan one image at the time after witch you have to manually advance the holder. With a flatbed scanner you can scan up to twelve 35mm images at once witch is really nice.
Rob-F
Likes Leicas
Actually a Coolscan would not be way out of my budget. I see a number of them going for under $1000. The question is whether it is smart to buy a Coolscan at any price, now that technical support/repairs for them are pretty chancy. If people here were urging me to stretch the budget to get one a little over $1000, I would even do that. But that is not the advice I'm getting.
I am a little discouraged by your describing the 7600i as merely "OK." Others seem to think it's quite good. And I didn't know that Silverfast was regarded as dreaded, or as junk. That's a little scary, too. I thought it was supposed to be the driver to end all drivers!
If you didn't think the Coolscans were out of my budget, would you be suggesting one? Which one?