OT: Beijing Travel Tips?

akalai

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Hi there...

Any forum members with any advice/tips or suggestions on Beijing?

It's rather short notice but my dad unexpectedly has to travel to China in two days time, will spend the first few days in Hong Kong then to Guangzhou and then on to Beijing. He will have a few free days in Beijing and has never been there before and I thought I might ask here to see if any forum members have any "must see or do" things while in Beijing other than the mandatory Tiananmen Square/Forbidden City tourist spots. Ofcourse he will still be visiting these amazing places but would like to see a bit more of Beijing than just the "tourists" Beijing if possible in the time he has available.

I've told dad to go see the old hutons as they seem to be one element of Beijing disappearing fast but what other sights or experiences are worth trying to track down before they vanish in the rapidly redeveloping Beijing?

What tourist traps should he avoid? OK, all of them, but I imagine some are inevitable. :)

He's a pretty keen foodie, hey he taught me to use chopsticks before a knife and fork so any particular areas, streets or restaurants of note that are fun to visit would be of interest to him.

Really looking for any good advice.

Unfortunately dad isn't much interested in photography, but any advice as to where I might be able to "easily" send him to get me a Mekko/Safrotto camera bag? Also interested in finding out any good places for old second hand books, I got a 1950's/60's propaganda poster painting guide book from a friend which is all gridded up so it could be easily replicated...I'd love to get some more of these or any other strong graphic design type books from China's recent past.

OK well look forward to hearing from you guys.

Cheers!

AKALAI
 
In my view the Hutongs are a must - early mornings especially! Tiananmen, because it is such a large space, and while there the Forbidden City. There is an antique market North of Tiananmen called something like Lee aw lee chang whch is interesting in terms of watching folk get their hair cut in the street, talking to caged birds and playing Chinese fiddles. Most of the decent antiques in porcelain and pottery went years ago or cannot be exported if old. There are plenty of genuine fakes though! Probably Wang Fu Jing Street which is on the corner of the Beijing Hotel right angles to Chang An (just down a bit from Tiananmen) is the best place to buy Western style goods, as there are lots of folk there who speak English or other European languages. There are Western book shops there too which sell great books, particularly on Chinese art and history from the Foreign Languages Press.

Enjoy !
 
Get the name/address of the hotel written in Chinese at the front desk and carry it with him at all times. When he wants to go somewhere, have someone at the desk write it in Chinese. Taxi-drivers speak no english at all, not even a word. They are trying to change that, but when I was there several years ago, no dice.

Hutongs are cool. T Square is impressive. There are lots of young people who approach all westerners and try to get you to speak english with them - some are students who are curious about speaking english - some are hookers - some are scammers who want you to come to their shop and look at their paintings, which you will have to buy whether you want to or not. Don't follow a friendly person to their shop - just politely refuse. You'll be 'politely' blocked inside until you buy or things get ugly. Oh yeah if you like buying pirated software, movies, and music, it's all over the place. I think it is a very bad thing, but whatever.

The pollution in Beijing is horrible - I found it worse than Mexico City - it burned my eyes the whole time I was there. The city itself is huge, sprawling, and ugly - there is no skyline as such.

For photographers, it can be fascinating to get up early and watch the flow of traffic as people try to get to work - mix of bicycles and cars. Beijing is starting to become a capitalist city - lots of newly-minted middle class computer people. They're going nuts about the 2008 Olympics - really looking forward to it - have been tearing down buildings at a breakneck pace since 2000.

It is a fun place!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
Thankyou for such a quick and varied response..... I am in a mad rush with some Uni work and trying to help dad out with a few errands but there are a lot of good little tips in the two responses so far. THANKYOU PEOPLES!
 
All the advice so far is good. Take a debit card with the Interac / Plus logo on it and you can use it at any cash machine , almost. Take cabs every where. Have a guide book with the coordinates of your hotel, and places you wish to go written in Chinese. Cabbies are like NYC cabbies. Some are congenial others are taciturn and a few will refuse to take you. The latter is a function of $$ for the distance of the fare. Fares are regulated and watched closely so they cannot fool around on price.

Food, look for places with table cloths, it assures an effort is made at maintaining minimum western service and quality. Ordering food ; most restaurants have menus with photos of the food they serve.Wu Fan St.is very cosmo, Starbucks and lots of other things too. You will be spotted and hit on to buy art everywhere. Tell them you have purchased enough art and you are not interested in any more!

Have fun. See the show of the Chinese acrobats. It is cheap and more easily understood as a westerner than going to the Chinese Opera. If you have time see both. Not expensive.

Most people are courteous, and a few can speak english. Get a guide book and see what are the other Must see things. Tian An Men is 'across the street from the Forbidden City so it is an easy combo to do.
 
You can arrange for a taxi to take you to the Great Wall. There are many different sections. Personally, I think Ba Da Ling is way too overcommercialized. Go to Jin Shan Ling or one of the others. There is one just before Ba Da Ling, which is very nice. Very steep too -- don't climb if you have a heart condition.

greatwall-up.jpg


Taken with my Bessa-R with original 35mm Pancake on TMax 100, I think.

It should cost you maybe 600RMB -- give or take 100. Not that much really. Don't pay him before you go. They will give you about two hours to go up and then taken you back. Pay at the end. If you pay before, they will simply leave you there, and then you have no way to get back.

Hopefully, at this time of year, the weather will be nice -- but not too cold. There are many interesting things outside of the city, and if you see anything interesting, have the driver stop.

If you are staying at a Western Hotel, just keep your key card with you. That usually has the address in English and Chinese. And you can always ask the hotel staff to write down a message in Chinese for a taxi driver.

As the others have said, there is much to see and do. Have a great time!
 
jan normandale said:
The latter is a function of $$ for the distance of the fare. Fares are regulated and watched closely so they cannot fool around on price. /QUOTE]

The only problem I had in Beijing was when I took a cab from my hotel to the airport. I understand that the cabbie had to pay a toll to get into the airport and expected that to be added to the bill. However, he asked me for something like 6 times the amount shown on the meter. I refused to pay - he refused to unlock the trunk of the cab. It was 6 in the morning - no cops at the airport departure drop off.

Then I remember that a) RMB is 8-to-1 for dollars, so he was ripping me off for something like $20 and b) I was on an expense account. He also refused to give me a receipt for my expenses - all the other cabbies had, without asking.

So I gave him his money, took my luggage, and left. Rip off the tourist, how original.

All the other cabbies in Beijing that I had dealings wtih were polite, prompt, and honest - they obeyed the meter, even if none of them spoke english. Only on the trip out to the airport - and probably because he knew I was leaving?

By the way - the Chinese also practice capital punishment - however, they don't bother with that whole 'appeal' business that keeps American monsters on Death Row for decades. They take them to the local sports stadium, let the public in, and shoot those convicted in the head. The average cost for an execution is $57 USD. They execute more people than my entire town population every year. So don't break the law!

Best Regards,

Bill Mattocks
 
jan normandale said:
Food, look for places with table cloths, it assures an effort is made at maintaining minimum western service and quality. Ordering food ; most restaurants have menus with photos of the food they serve.Wu Fan St.is very cosmo, Starbucks and lots of other things too. You will be spotted and hit on to buy art everywhere. Tell them you have purchased enough art and you are not interested in any more!

All Jan's advice is good, including the above. However, for what it is worth, my experience in other parts of the orient (Okinawa, Vietnam, and Korea) has been that the little out of the way mom and pop shops tend to have quite delicious and authentic food, and are surprisingly free of health problems. China may be different, I don't know. You probably will have more of a problem communicating in them, and will also be the object of a lot of curiosity. May or may not be worth it.
 
Careful you don't point a camera at cops/soldiers/anyone in a semi-serious looking uniform. Especially not anyone with a gun! Depending on the constantly changing security situation (the chaps in charge of the country are sometimes a bit paranoid) they might or might not take offence at a foreigner taking pictures of them!

As for shoppint for kit, try and get someone to take you to 'Wang Fu Jing' shopping district which is like Oxford street... x10!!!! Crazy place where you can get almost anything you want, probably for dirt cheap too :) This area is the showcase for the Chinese and so you won't get ripped off. As for shopping for old stuff, try and look for open air stalls or markets. I'm sure the Chinese are catering for this market right now :) When I was in Yunnan I was bombarded with Mao badges, little red books, some authentic, some... not so authentic!!

If you have a chance, try and go to 'Bei Hai' Park. Lovely former summer park for the Imperial family with lots of lakes and stuff.
 
I also forgot to mention. When you arrive, each of you take 100RMB and paperclip it inside your passport. When you leave, you have to pay a departure tax of 90RMB.

In many places, there is no such thing as a line, So when you're checking in at the airport, don't be surprised if someone simply steps in front of you. I've had to chicken wing people to keep them from getting in front of me.

Other thoughts:

-- There's a high likelihood that they will scan your luggage coming in and out.

-- No need to tip in China.

-- Yup, Bill got ripped off by the cabbie. I once took a cab from an airport way outside Shanghai into the city. It was a 90-minute cab ride -- must have been about 70 miles -- and the total fare was still only something like US$30.

-- Forget public transportation. Taxis are unbelievably cheap -- usually just a few dollars for wherever you want to go.

-- No need to tip waiters, doormen, people who deliver luggage, etc., although many expect it from foreigners ... and especially from Americans.

-- Good advice about not taking photos of any police. Also add embassies and consulates to the list (personal experience). And if you happen to see some of the secret police banging some heads in Tiananmen Square, either don't take photos or don't be obvious about it -- you might be next for a head banging, especially if you're Asian.
 
I just returned from 3 weeks in China, including Beijing. All of the above advice and observations are valid and helpful; The exchange rate for US $ is 7.6 Yuan to $1. The local beers are OK-don't drink the tap water! For something unusual in Beijing, visit any park, including T. Square, just after dawn and watch the locals practice Tai Chi. The portion of the Great Wall to visit is the "Wild" Great Wall, north of Beijing. No tourists. Zeiss Fan's photo looks exactly like one I took of this section, which takes a lot of climbing to get to! The weather right now should be fairly mild and not requiring winter wear. I didn't see the sun for 3 weeks, except in Tibet at 12000 ft. So if Akalai's Dad doesn't take photos, he can always buy post cards which are cheap. Good luck.
 
I think there isn't one person that would leave Beijing without a bad experience, specially foreigners. Even though I look Chinese, but just by the way I dress and the places I was in they still managed to rip us off.
I was in Beijing just earlier this year for the first time in my life. I was lucky to have some distant distant relatives to take me around, and being able to speak Chinese I really didn't have much of a problem. But like many has already said, have the addresses of places you need to go written down in Chinese characters. It would help you out a great amount. If the cabs are not going by meters, set a price before you get on. Chinese people are crazily money minded so watch out even when you are shopping.
There are many many parks and gardens in the city, The Summer Palace should be the most famous one of all. It really is a beautiful place. There is Beihai Park as well.
One more place I don't think anyone has mentioned is the Chairman Mao's Memorial Hall. That was a trip for me because I have spent my whole of high school studying Chinese communist history, so just being there was a little surreal.
I'm not sure what the weather in Beijing would be like now, but when I was there in Spring.. the weather could be a little unpredictable, so do carry a little portable umbrella.
Beijing is a HUGE place... if you are able to hire someone to take you are round, or know of someone there, by all means I really think you should take up the offer!
What entertained my camera and I the most was the streets of Beijing. People don't really mind cameras because I guess you'll obviously look like a tourist. But do watch out for the guards, haha I was at Tiananmen Square trying to get a shot of him but he noticed me and told me to stop, and was real angry about it. WALK AWAY!
Just being there for a few days really isn't enough to see the main attractions of Beijing so I guess places you should miss is really Tiananmen Square, Great Wall (Just to say that you've been there! And honestly you wouldn't want to go back unless you liked going up a bajillion amount of stairs!), The Summer Palace, and Chairman Mao's Memorial Hall.

Oh, do study the city map before you go, because you'll realise that many of these places are grouped together in a central area of the city, or not far from each other... So you might end up being able to see more places that you first sought out to. I hope you have a good time, because I just know you will! :D
 
There are two neat places to visit, although these do not belong to the "must see" list:

Great Bell Temple---this is the location of the largest bell in China, the tenth largest (by weight) in the world. In the courtyard of the temple, there are many many bells of various sizes on display---in fact this is a bell museum.

http://www.chinatravelnews.com/theme/t-4.htm

Yonghe Palace---this is actually a Lama Buddist temple. It was called "palace" because it was once the home of a prince in the Qing Dynasty (Qing is pronouced as "Ching").

http://www.beijingtrip.com/attractions/lamatemple.htm

Neither of these are your usual tourists spots, especially the first one.
 
I probably maybe about a dozen trips to Beijing. I always had a great time. I usually stayed at a hotel about five blocks from the office -- so I would usually walk to the hotel, which afforded some nice photo time.

On one trip, my wife and daughter came along, and we did the bicycle cart tour of the Hutong. I would recommend a visit there before it's gone for good. Negotiate a price with the driver. The drive might suggest stopping at various places for trinkets or meals. You can decide if you want to do that.

It's hard to visit Beijing and not enjoy yourself.
 
Try the local mineral water Lao Shan as well as Beijing Peijou (Beijing Beer ) it's definitely full of minerals and would give the Dead Sea a run for its money, but a interesting and not unpleasant taste.
 
WOW...

Just woke up and am amazed at the amount of time and effort people have taken to leave such brilliant nuggets of advice! I probably don't have time to thank everyone separately but I would like to say THANKYOU on behalf of my dad.

Will have to go over this info a few times and will be sure to print parts of it out so my dad can take this info with him.

Thankyou everyone!!!
 
Have someone mentioned theTemple of Heaven. If not, here it is:

http://www.beijingtrip.com/attractions/heaven.htm

This is another "must see" spot for Beijing.

Further to the comment about beer in a previous message, you don't need to buy it at corner stores. It is also quite cheap at Chinese style restuarants. It's probably more expensive at Western style restuarants/hotels and bars, although I have not tried those places. BTW, Tsingtao beer was started by the Germans in the City of Tsingtao (probably a century ago). So it is in effect a German beer.

And contrary to the comment about tip in an earlier message, hotel attendants who carry luggage up to your room in a Western style hotel do expect a small tip. I always tip in those hotels (5 yuans or so). And yes, you do not need to tip in Chinese style restuarants. Again, I don't know the situation for bars and the like.

Lastly for photographers, you do not need to bring all your film to China, unless you need slide films or professional films. Both Kodak and Fuji colour negative films for the consumer market are widely available in department stores, if you have the time to shop. There is actually a Kodak factory in southeastern China that produces consumer films for the domestic market, and they are about half the price that I would have to pay in Canada. HOWEVER, I wouldn't buy film from the street vendors at tourists locations. You don't know how long those films have been sitting under the sun.
 
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