OT: Subminis

I'd love to give the 8x11mm Minoxes a try; there's a nice one on eBay (I think Adorama's store) at the moment. The thought of having to slit my own film, find the cassettes to load film into, and finding the developing reels to have said film developed keeps me from clicking 'Buy-It-Now'. 🙂

Still, I've always thought that they looked rather elegant.
 
Justin Low said:
The thought of having to slit my own film, find the cassettes to load film into, and finding the developing reels to have said film developed keeps me from clicking 'Buy-It-Now'. 🙂

And of course, they're no rangefinders...
 
The procdeure for removing 110 film from a cassette for developing leaves the cassette undamaged and the paper un-torn. If you can punch the stop perforation into the film, you should be all set up for reloading.

Minolta 16 film is pretty easy to load. Perforations don't matter.

-Paul
 
The jist of the perforation stuff I gleaned from subclub - is that for 110 cameras which index off the perforations, the count is wrong and you would have to crank it 4 times. http://www.subclub.org/darkroom/roll110.htm

Tri-X is available in single perf 100' rolls at B&H, which should work for the minoltas (including the QT's) and will fit in 110 albeit with the wrong perforations.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...763&is=USA&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

I dunno why, but 16mm trips my trigger in a way 110 doesn't. Perhaps because I'm old enough to remember crappy toy 110 cameras and the 16mm's are "exotic" (meaning I'm not old enough to remember crappy toy 16mm subminis 🙂
 
You guys are making me feel really guilty about not using the Tessina! Higher initial cost, but uses 35mm film and reels. Reloadable cassette. And with film scanners, just put the negative into the carrier "backwards" and off you go. It uses a mirror to fold the lightpath. It is much smaller than a Nikon Lite-Touch and has motor advance as well.
 
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