Pan F+ who and what

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noeyedear

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I can't remember the last time I shot B&W. I have an urge and I will shamelessly follow it.
I'm enjoying a Rolleiflex 3.5F, I've been shooting with mostly Portra 160, but my new urge is PanF+. I have bought a few rolls but before I load and shoot them off I want a bit of guidance, the idea is to tame the contrast and shoot Landscape and portrait with a smooth tonal range. I'm happy to work from a tripod, so not to concerned about a speed decrease. I will be scanning initially but intend to wet print at a later date. Which developers should I be looking at and how would you rate the iso at shooting please?
My thoughts are leaning towards Rodinal any other suggestions speed/dev combos?

Thanks,

Kevin.
 
These aren't questions you can simply ask other people. It's like asking "which toppings should I get on my pizza", there is only one thing to do, and that is to shoot test rolls and develop yourself and see which kind of pictures you like the best. Asking for other people's taste is a completely waste of time.
 
I shoot A lot of Pan-F, and develop it in Rodinal 1:100 one hour stand. You get some grain but really nice tonality. I find the results to be similar whether I rate it at 50 or 100 iso.
 
- said:
These aren't questions you can simply ask other people. It's like asking "which toppings should I get on my pizza", there is only one thing to do, and that is to shoot test rolls and develop yourself and see which kind of pictures you like the best. Asking for other people's taste is a completely waste of time.
Click to expand...

Yes I can see that, I'm more after the swings and roundabouts of various combs. If I get the tonal range what will I sacrifice to get it. I'm not after a definitive answer just a clue where to start.
Most people have a tomato topping, the rest if fine tuning:p

Kevin.
 
My best results with PanF+ have come from developing it in Perceptol (1+1). It's good in Rodinal 1+50 too but ID-11 seems to be a bit too "strong".
 
PanF+ can be a bit tricky film to tame. It's beautiful when you succeed but if you don't you'll end up with a lot of contrast. This can be nice if you are wet printing but it's a nuisance when scanning. With Rodinal I used 1+100 dilution, EI25, 30sec initial agitation and 45mins stand (not the usual 60mins). Xtol works nicely too: EI25, 1+2 dilution for 8 minutes. With HC-110 I'd go with dilution H but unfortunatley I don't have times for you. Good luck!
 
I've processed PanF+ in Rodinal 1:100, XTol 1:1 and DDX. I like Rodinal best, but admit I didn't experiment with the others very much. I will also probably try some staining developers.

Edit: This scene was fairly high contrast; Rodinal 1:100 tamed it, I think.

4007218750_8120f5e52c_z.jpg
 
I used to shoot a lot of PanF and from memory I felt it worked well in perseptol and was ok in ilfosol, I did not like it so much in ID11. This can be taken with a pinch of salt though as the last time I shot it was 25 years ago. If I get any now it would be done in Rodinal or a variety of first to see if I like it.
 
I like PanF+ and stocked up on it in 120 and 100' rolls.

I prefer PMK Pyro+ Developer (staining type developer). PanF+ was recommended by Gordon Hutchings in his Pyro book, so that is what I went with. It works very well with PMK Pyro+.

Develop it ASAP after exposure. The latent image tends to disappear somewhat (maybe about a stop at most) if undeveloped exposed film is stored over long periods. I know this from direct experience.
 
I'm settling on EI 50 in Xtol1+3 for my main Pan F+ use. For high contrast situations, I would consider pulling it to EI25 and shortening the dev time...
 
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