Paterson reels quality

Paterson reels quality

  • Squeeze it and pull out as gently as possible

    Votes: 72 35.8%

  • Pull the reel apart

    Votes: 81 40.3%

  • I use either method at times

    Votes: 11 5.5%

  • I use steel reels

    Votes: 37 18.4%
  • Total voters
    201
I learned on the Patterson tanks, and now use both steel and plastic. Theres pros and cons to both systems, The steel reels are a little harder to load, but not a huge problem once you get used to it. The nice thing about using the steel tanks and reels is you use less chemicals.

I never had a problem with gummed up reels, I just rinse them throughly in warm water after use, along with every other part of the tank.

Patterson reels are quite stiff when they're new, but if you use them for a while they get alot easier to pull them apart. I pull them apart to get my film out.
 
I do look for extra tanks and reels at any swap meet I go to! Though very tough, the larger (5&8 reel Paterson) can crack - particularly at the bottom. I know that it could be my less than gentle tap to dislodge airbubbles that does it. The advantage is that you can replace the tank and continue to use the cap and the lid on a new tank.
The leaking lid is easily solved by "burping" it. Lid on and push down so that it is secure then put you thumb in the middle of it and lightly lift the edge of the lid. It makes a "rude" noise and then the lid is pushed down again. There can be occasional leakage, but I have never had a problem with it. My tanks are rotated on an old Color Roller system for fixing. It is one of the ones that does two turns one direction and then stops and reverses. Some "dribbling" on the shelf were the agitator sits but not much. The larger 5 reel tanks fit fine on these rollers, the 3 reel tank is a bit short and you have to keep an eye on it so that it doesnt slide off! Agitating fixer is boring and I can run a second tank through the developer cycle while the first one fixes.
In the "good old days" Paterson would replace anything that broke - no questions asked, but today they dont - at least not here.
 
Tom A
Remember reading about a tank cracking before. Tapping the bench to dislodge bubbles in indeed the recommended way to dislodge the bubbles, but there's an alternative: after inverting the tank I always smack its bottom with my free hand. Never any signs of bubbles and not a cracked tank in 35 years....
For leakage we seem to have found the same solution, and that goes for rolling the tank during fixing as well. On my rolling device this only works with a 5 reel tank, smaller ones slide of. Has anyone tried putting a small tank in a fitting tube to solve this? If not, I intend to give that a try....
 
I went shopping for a five reel tank, and misc odds-n-ends, at our local photo fleamarket store. I looked through a pile of Patterson stuff, and almost bought a old System-4 five reel tank, but it was missing the black plastic center column.
So I bought a nice vintage five-reel Honeywell Nikor tank, with rod, and some extra reels. But I did buy a couple of Patterson graduated cylinders, and replacement cover and replacement bulb for my Patterson safelight. So I'd like to have Patterson stuff, but now I have a two, five, and eight-reel Nikor tanks, so that's what I will use.
 
You were right, it needs the centre column. A single reel can move up this column and not return to the developer, which is why I once thought to be smart and leave this column out. Then spent quite a while figuring out when and how I'd had a light leak ruining my film.....
 
"A single reel can move up this column and not return to the developer"

Now that you have me thinking about it again, wasn't there also a nylon plastic ring that snapped onto the top of the center column, once it was fully (or partially) loaded with reels?

-Dan, I guess I'm glad I didn't spend alot of money on a "partial" Paterson System 4 tank. And, I do remember how mine used to leak, I used a Unicolor Uniroller with an eight-reel System-4 to spin the tank, through the whole process. Put 5x7 trays on either side of the Uniroller, to catch the spillage.
 
Yes, you're right, they provide a ring to stop this happening. Haven't seen it around for quite a while. Now what I do is simply put a second reel on top of the loaded one (obviously we're discussing the most common tank, which is fit for 2 35mm reels).
 
Hmm.. was always taking the reels apart. Since it always worked, probably not going to change 🙂

Either way unloading Paterson-type tanks is not such a pain as loading. I now stick to other plastic systems; in my favorite tank I can load a 36exp roll on a reel in 6-7 seconds.
 
I'd use metal reels if they cost the same as the plastic... I actually like the metal ones with the little knobs you loop the sprocket holes over, but they don't sell three of those + a Paterson dev tank for $10, do they?


PS. I don't take the reels apart when I remove the film either.
 
I don't take apart the reels. With my left hand holding the reel, I pull out the developed negatives with my right hand in one motion. Never scratch my negatives at all.
 
I pull the reel apart.
I've switched to Hewes steel reels for 35mm, but have recently switched back to Patterson for 120. I find the clamps on 120 steel reels cause the film to buckle causing uneven edge development (I suspect), plus they're a MPITA for me to load.
 
greyhoundman said:
No vote possible for me.

I don't curve film and gently pull it out.
I lift the end and pull up and out in one fell swoop. Nothing but the sprocket holes are in contact with the reel. No damage is going occur, unless you are King Kong. 🙂
Click to expand...


I agree. My photoflo subsitute makes it easier for the films to slide through while I'm pulling it out.
 
I hit the reel with a big hammer until the film comes out. This method works with metal reels, too. Also, a hammer can be used to remove a Noctilux from an M body – although for that task, I personally prefer torquing the lens off with a pipe wrench.
 
I use stainless steel reels and pull them apart to remove the film. That's how we learned to do it in North Korea.
 
greyhoundman said:
No vote possible for me.

I don't curve film and gently pull it out.
I lift the end and pull up and out in one fell swoop. Nothing but the sprocket holes are in contact with the reel. No damage is going occur, unless you are King Kong. 🙂
Click to expand...


Thats also how I do it, but I can't believe the complicated ways people find to do a simple job. Pulling reels apart is just asking for accidents to happen.

Steve
 
250swb said:
Thats also how I do it, but I can't believe the complicated ways people find to do a simple job. Pulling reels apart is just asking for accidents to happen.

Steve
Click to expand...

I thought taking it apart and pick up is simpler 🙄

Three years since starting the thread, I now mostly use Hewes steel reels for 35mm. The biggest problem with plastic is moisture, once wet, they don't work.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom