Pen FT questions

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Two questions about the meter. 1) Do the numbers 0 through 7 correspond exactly to 1.4 through 16 on the aperture ring? Frankly, though I want to use the meter, I prefer to see what aperture I'm at, and so wish to keep the ring aligned so that I can see the aperture numbers. 2) How do you turn the meter off to preserve the battery? Or can't you?

 

[Dwig]

1) Do the numbers 0 through 7 correspond exactly to 1.4 through 16 on the aperture ring?

Yes and no, it depends on what lens you are using.

The numbers don't relate to any specific f/stops. They indicated the number of stops from the lens' maximum aperture. On an f/1.4 lens "0" would be f/1.4 and "7" would be seven stops smaller, f/16. On an f/2.8 lens, "0" would be f/2.8 and "7" would be f/32, if it existed.

2) How do you turn the meter off to preserve the battery? Or can't you?

I don't remember if there is a switch. I do know with that type of simple Cds meter, battery drain is roughly proportional to the amount of light the meter sees. Cap the lens and battery drain drops low enough that battery life isn't significantly shorter than if there was an electrical on/off switch. There were a number of cameras that avoided a switch for this reason.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

That was short-sighted of me, I just happened to be looking at my 40/1.4 and used those apertures examples. So OK, that's what I thought.

And as for the meter...I don't see any sort of switch...so I will have to get a cap for this lens.

Much appreciated!

 

[newspaperguy]

Sorry Sir... no switch.
Just use your lenscap,
anf unlike your RF, you'll never forget to take it off. 😉

 

[flip]

It's not a perfect system. Take the 38/1.8: 0 = 1.8, 1 = 2.8, somewhere in between 0 and 1 is a click stop for 2.0. I suppose this can be an asset for a shooter if he opens the lens and counts down clicks without looking at anything but the internal meter.

 

[julio1fer]

About the current drain, I understand that those meters had very low drain, just 50-100 microamperes at full scale.

That means that a standard battery would last for years of normal use, i.e. about the same as shelf life. That's why Mr. Maitani did not use a switch IMHO.

Maybe somebody has data on battery life in these cameras?

 

[raid]

This thread has useful information on the FT. Keep it going.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

Well, I have my first metered roll hanging up right now and the exposures appear perfect. I will scan 'em later.

 

[ferider]

I remember reading somewhere that normal lenses start at "0", wide angles at "0.5" and teles at "1".

Important if you want to use Pen F lenses or adapted other lenses on an FT. Provided that the FT meter still works, which is rare.

Cheers,

Roland.

 

[raid]

I will check out my FT to see if its meter still works or not.

 

[Dwig]

I remember reading somewhere that normal lenses start at "0", wide angles at "0.5" and teles at "1"...

There are some lenses that start with 0.5 or 1 according to the original instruction manual.

Available for download here: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_pen_ft/olympus_pen_ft.htm

The lenses listed are, of course, only the original Pen lenses that lacked the meter numbers. The pattern is that all prime lenses 70mm and shorter start at 0. Prime eles 100mm and longer start at 1 with the exception of the 800mm mirror lens (starts at 0). the long zoom 100-200mm also starts at 1. The odd ducks are the 70mm f/2 and 50-90 zoom which both start at 0.5. So, both ferider and I were slightly wrong; not all lenses start at 0 and wide angles don't start at 0.5.

Apparently the design of the meter causes it to be influenced by varying lens characteristics (not uncommon). When adapting non-Pen lenses, the chart may be somewhat of a guide, but some experimentation may be in order.

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

With the 60/1.5 and a Wein cell. All exposures came out pretty damned close.

 

[flip]

I have a vaguely-related question regarding the mirrors. I have an FV, but I often read about replacement mirrors meant to effectively convert an FT to FV (non-silvered, so the meter won't work but the view is brighter). Are the new mirrors brighter than one might find original in an FV? Worth the change? Is it worth replacing the one in an FV?

Thanks!
Phil (awaiting a 250/5 in the mail - woohoo!)

 

[squirrel$$$bandit]

I have a vaguely-related question regarding the mirrors. I have an FV, but I often read about replacement mirrors meant to effectively convert an FT to FV (non-silvered, so the meter won't work but the view is brighter). Are the new mirrors brighter than one might find original in an FV? Worth the change?

Thanks!
Phil (awaiting a 250/5 in the mail - woohoo!)

Apparently, yes, you can get a stop or two of brightness out of a new mirror. The FT mirror is quite soft/dim, but works very well with a fast lens.

Robert Jagitsch (digitalintrigue) used to do this work, but I'm not so sure that he does anymore.