FujiLove
Well-known
Hi there, thanks for the reply. Yes, I've seen some absolute mint examples on eBay from Japan, but can't seem to pluck up the courage and do it. I'm probably put off by the import tax and concerned by any hidden fees which might accur. Sounds like you had no problems?
No problems at all. I've bought a few things from the Japanese sellers and in my experience they are the most reliable and honest traders on that platform.
You will get stung for the VAT and import duty unless you ask the seller to mark the package at a low value. The down side of this is the package won't be insured to its full value. It still worked out cheaper than buying from the UK.
SQUARETIP
Member
No problems at all. I've bought a few things from the Japanese sellers and in my experience they are the most reliable and honest traders on that platform.
You will get stung for the VAT and import duty unless you ask the seller to mark the package at a low value. The down side of this is the package won't be insured to its full value. It still worked out cheaper than buying from the UK.
Thanks. I'll keep my eyes peeled for a nice P67 MLU with 105mm as I've seen some real beUties in the past
Cheers
tsiklonaut
Well-known
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
Guys, at the risk of reigniting my GAS, toward a camera I have already owned thrice before:
Got any tips toward getting SHARP pictures from this thing? I never really did.
I've read there is a shutter speed range to avoid, because of resonance from the mirror(?).
That having the monstrous wood grip stabilizes it.
That having a RRS plate attached stabilizes it....
Any truth? Anything else? I would be shooting fashion/lifestyle/travel/portraiture with it. Handheld is what I'm worried about. In studio with strobes, and/or a tripod, no problem. But, daylight?
Got any tips toward getting SHARP pictures from this thing? I never really did.
I've read there is a shutter speed range to avoid, because of resonance from the mirror(?).
That having the monstrous wood grip stabilizes it.
That having a RRS plate attached stabilizes it....
Any truth? Anything else? I would be shooting fashion/lifestyle/travel/portraiture with it. Handheld is what I'm worried about. In studio with strobes, and/or a tripod, no problem. But, daylight?
tsiklonaut
Well-known
For handheld action you can get tack-sharp results:
1/1000 th to 1/125th is all allright, unless you use long teles (165mm or longer lens)
1/60 more or less OK but try to avoid, OK for wide angles
1/30 relatively dangerous, only for steady hands or very wide angles (55mm or less), some mirror slap signature present
1/15th is the most "dangerous" speed, massive mirror-slap "signature" in pictures
1/8 and less obviously NOT for handheld, sturdy tripod-only, and use mirror-lockup (MLU) function
I don't do any fashion, indoor or fancy studio things with my P67, plain and simple down-to-earth landscapes and travel shots with natural light only & lots of abuse in terms of what it has to go through (motorcycle vibrations, cold & hot weather etc), I think it's an amazing camera and very wrongly marketed by some people as some kind of softy fancy-pancy fashionist camera IMHO, it's instead it's a tank and a true workhorse, works for any style!
1/1000 th to 1/125th is all allright, unless you use long teles (165mm or longer lens)
1/60 more or less OK but try to avoid, OK for wide angles
1/30 relatively dangerous, only for steady hands or very wide angles (55mm or less), some mirror slap signature present
1/15th is the most "dangerous" speed, massive mirror-slap "signature" in pictures
1/8 and less obviously NOT for handheld, sturdy tripod-only, and use mirror-lockup (MLU) function
I don't do any fashion, indoor or fancy studio things with my P67, plain and simple down-to-earth landscapes and travel shots with natural light only & lots of abuse in terms of what it has to go through (motorcycle vibrations, cold & hot weather etc), I think it's an amazing camera and very wrongly marketed by some people as some kind of softy fancy-pancy fashionist camera IMHO, it's instead it's a tank and a true workhorse, works for any style!
tsiklonaut
Well-known
birbal
Member
Got any tips toward getting SHARP pictures from this thing? I never really did.
I've read there is a shutter speed range to avoid, because of resonance from the mirror(?).
The following picture was taken at 1/15 handheld with no grip as you can see and Takumar 105mm lens at F2.4:

This one was taken at 1/30 handheld, daylight, no grip and the same lens: Takumar 105mm at F2.4:

I don't think that are that bad so don't be afraid to shoot handheld but not below 1/15 I would say. I both cases I haven't use the mirror lock option.
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
I definitely never shot it at slower than 1/30 or 1/60, yet still got soft images on tri-x outdoors in dimming light — my last use of the P67II.
I should have mentioned I was primarily using the 105, but also had the 75AL2.8.
I should have mentioned I was primarily using the 105, but also had the 75AL2.8.
FujiLove
Well-known
I took a couple of indoor, hand-held shots on holiday last year at 1/30 (one may even have been 1/15) with the 55mm and they came out fine. I printed one 12x16 and it looks the same as the other's that were shot at 1/125 or faster. I had the waist level finder attached which I think makes it a little more stable because you can hold the body against your stomach and pull down on the straps.
charjohncarter
Veteran
Ektar 100 with Pentax 6x7 (105mm)
Ektar 100 Pentax 6x7 by John Carter, on Flickr
And one using my Pentax 6x7 with a mounted Brownie Hawkeye Flash len:
Ektar 100 Pentax 6x7 by John Carter, on Flickr

And one using my Pentax 6x7 with a mounted Brownie Hawkeye Flash len:

struene
Established
ASA 32
Well-known
These superb photos have inspired me to get my old Pentax 67 out of storage! Until I can expose some film and get it processed, here is one from the archive. (Pentax 67, SMC Pentax 135 f/4 Macro with extension, Fujichrome Provia 100, Konica/Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro.)

ASA 32
Well-known
Like this? (Pentax 67, SMC Pentax 135 f/4 Macro with extension, Fujichrome Provia 100, Konica/Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro.)

Leaf Litter and Deadwood by ASA 32, on Flickr

Leaf Litter and Deadwood by ASA 32, on Flickr
Adric83
Member
CK Dexter Haven
Well-known
Really lovely. This, and others you have in your flickr stream.
I wish someone would start a Mamiya RZ67 GAS thread, so i wouldn't feel so compelled to trade mine in for a Pentax 67. Again.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
^ Again ? Peter
Larry Cloetta
Veteran
This is a question I'm asking here which isn't so much about Pentax 67 GAS, as I already cured that by acquiring one, and it's a a cure worth taking. Having said that, was wondering if anyone here can lend some information about a smallish problem. The 2.4/105 takes 67mm filters and a bayonet hood, which I have. If you have a filter on the lens, you can't attach the hood because the bayonet slots are covered by the filter. But, the inside of the hood is threaded to accept a filter. It looks exactly like the filter threads inside the hood would take a 67mm filter as well, which would make sense. However, I can't get any of 3 different 67mm filters to screw into the hood. I know it could be fiddly, but have tried for 30 minutes. Threads on the hood are not marrred or defective, nor are the ones on the filters, which are all different brands. Seems like a 66.7mm filter would fit; I know that's not it, just how it seems. I can't find any information which would indicate the thread size for the filters inside the hood. Anybody have the same problem, or an answer? Thanks.
Adric83
Member
The 2.4/105 takes 67mm filters and a bayonet hood, which I have. If you have a filter on the lens, you can't attach the hood because the bayonet slots are covered by the filter.
I'll start by saying I'm not personally familiar with this hood. The hood I have for my 105 is not bayonet, but a clip on, so it uses spring tension to hold the hood against the internal threads of the lens or the threads on the inside rim of the filter.
BUT, from my limited reading, these bayonet hoods were early and designed for the early lenses; unfortunately this apparently means that they are compatible ONLY with the bayonet style filters that Pentax made, or gelatin frames over the end of the hood, NOT with screw in filters that are compatible with later hoods/lenses.
Again, I just have the threaded, later lenses and clip on hoods, but some reading about this when I was researching which hood to buy, led me to believe that there were incompatibilities such as I've mentioned. Hopefully there's a simple solution.
charjohncarter
Veteran
That is weird, I don't have a Pentax 105mm lenshood. I use a cheap rubber screw-in which works for my filters. I wonder if Pentax had special filters for this lens (and other 67mm filter size lenses).
I looked through by manuals and they didn't mention anything special about filters and hoods.
I looked through by manuals and they didn't mention anything special about filters and hoods.
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
Lens>Bayonet filters>bayonet hood
Or
Lens>normal 67mm filters > screw in/clamp on hood
I found a bayonet yellow filter locally and have the bayonet hood and a bayonet UV filter from KEH and it works but they are not very common.
Or
Lens>normal 67mm filters > screw in/clamp on hood
I found a bayonet yellow filter locally and have the bayonet hood and a bayonet UV filter from KEH and it works but they are not very common.
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