Permanent temporary solution for 35mm frame lines with 40mm lenses

[scottwallick]

I got close enough to filing down my CV 40/1.4 last week that I had taped off my lens and had the file in my hand. Then it occurred to me, Why not just use a piece of tape to stick the frame line switch on the Ikon to bring up the 35 frame lines?

I did this for most of last week. Just an inch of gaffer's tape securely position kept the 35mm frame lines visible while I shot with my 40mm. I've not been comfortable with modifying the lens (What if some crazy new cam comes out with 40mm frame lines?) so I'm pretty satisfied with this solution.

My question is, will forcing a different set of frame lines using the switch and some tape cause any damage? I'm can't think of why it would, but I'm usually wrong.

 

[Al Kaplan]

It shouldn't cause any problems. As for filing the bayonet lug to bring up the 35mm frame instead of the fifty, odds are that the "crazy new cam" will have a 40mm frame line in place of the 35, and use the same set-up (or perhaps have the now standard undersized 35 frame lines and just call them 40?) It's certainly the more elegant solution.

 

[Frankie]

I had filed down the lens claw of the CV 40/1.4 to engage the 35mm frameline soon after I received it, new...and no regrets. The ZM with the CV 40/1.4 is my one camera/lens outfit for traveling. One day soon, I might buy the CV 25/4P to round out the outfit.

I had predicted and since verified that the 35mm frameline on the ZM shows only 85% of the FOV...resulting in a tight FOV of 40mm. The simple trick to use is ground glass or matte film placed at film plane guide rail with shutter held open at B. You will see exactly what the lens sees...through all focal distance and apertures and against hard targets like building edges with camera tripod mounted.

[You can also check lens hood vignetting or not this way.]

I had anticipated using the CV 25/4 with the 28mm frameline, allowing a cropping margin of ~15% around. So I need a way of bringing up the 28mm frameline no matter what. I know a piece of tape works, but "why drink champagne with a paper cup".

Check out this thread [near the end]: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=78491 where I have posted pictures of a device I made that held down the lever for the 28/85 frameline. A similar design also works for the 35mm frameline.

Since then, I have designed and made a new device using a plastic M10 washer (the hole is 10.5mm, perfect clearance for the 10mm diameter selector lever knob) that works for both the 28/85 and 35 framelines. I didn't post the new design because of an apparent lack of interest.

 

[sepiareverb]

Fine idea. I shall do this with my Kodachrome dedicated M5 whenever the 40/2.0 is mounted. One of those duh moments for me...

 

[Doug]

I have not tried the gaffer tape solution, but I've found a rubber band stretched from the preview lever to the left-side strap lug works for me. That's on an M2, which of course has a lever shape amenable for this. I would not (de)file my 40mm lenses (Rokkor and CV) because I use them on the CLE as well.

 

[kakinchan]

I don't turn the 40mm lens all the way when mounting on my M6. I turned it half way to bring up the 35 frameline. The friction between the camera mount and the lens (both Rokkor and Nokton) would keep them in place.

I got this idea from one of the members here. You can search previous posts.

I thought I just gonna use this method for the time before I decide filing the lenses. In the beginning I didn't really feel secure about this however I have been doing this for years and don't really bother about filing them. Well I am not sure if my M6 has a tighter mount than others, you have to check and be sure the lens is well installed.

 

[kakinchan]

Alternatively, you can consider a Bessa

 

[scottwallick]

I think I'm just going to file my lens as well. I'm going to give it a couple more rolls to see if I can't get used to using the 50 framelines before I commit to the 35.

 

[ljsegil]

Bessa R3x with a 40mm lens and its 40mm frameline is sweet, 1:1 eyepiece magnification facilitates two eye composing which, if the shooter likes the technique, cannot be done on my otherwise precious ZI (framelines regardless). Personally prefer the R3a (no battery paranoia here, carry an extra) as it duplicates the AE exposure possibility of the ZI, although I find the metering misses more frequently on the Bessa (still decently reliable and manual tweaking helps). The shorter EBL of the Bessa is not such an issue at 40mm, particularly since I shoot the Rollei Sonnar 40/2.8 and cannot challenge the focusing precision of the camera at f/2.8 as much as I might sometimes like to do (love my ZM 1.5/50). The Bessa R3x is no ZI for all around quality and versatility, but it is a great one lens one body solution if you favor 40mm for your photography (which is not to imply that the Bessa is limited to only that use, I find that it just excels at that niche for my own purposes).
Larry
Did I forget this was supposed to be about ZI framelines? Oops, sorry!