Photo advice: Europe

R

ray_g

Guest
My wife and I will be going on a long-awaited break next month. We will be cruising along the Black Sea, to places neither of us have visited. Been browsing tourbooks and the web, but any (photographic) advice (must-sees, equipment advice), especially from any locals or folks familiar with these places (especially the less common destinations), would be appreciated. Advice re places to eat and drink also welcome. 🙂

When we went to Chicago earlier this year, there was so much helpful, useful advice, I thought I'd give this a try.

Here's the itinerary:

Piraeus, Greece (Athens)
Istanbul, Turkey
Nessebur, Bulgaria
Constanta, Romania (Tomis)
Odessa, Ukraine
Sevastopol, Ukraine
Scenic Cruising Bosporus
Scenic Cruising Sea Of Marmara
Kusadasi, Turkey (Ephesus)
Santorini, Greece
Cruising The Ionian Sea
Dubrovnik, Croatia
Venice, Italy

Thanks to all in advance.
 
Ray,

I may have been one of those who showered with advice about your Chicago trip. I jest luuve that town! 😀

Now... I was hoping to see Barcelona in your list, but no dice.

Talk about exotic destinations! 😱

However, as for film (at least)... take oodles of it, slow and RF-fast (you don't need anything faster than ISO 400 with a rangefinder camera, do you?), and be ready for the weirdest bathrooms in the world.

Just be ready for Turkish bathrooms: a hole in the floor.

Now... Dubrovnik does have a reputation as one of the most beautiful towns in that particular area. If I remember correctly, a Popular Photography some months ago ran a piece about photography in the Balcan countries, and Dubrovnik was mentioned (along with Croatia). If you have RF cameras and a decent stable of glass, take them all, but don't forget a good SLR with zooms for the shots you can't do with RF cameras (like very long and/or very close).

What else to say... Let's hope others chime in. Roman and Denis would be extremely helpful here! 🙂
 
Ray,

sounds obvious but I would stock up big time on film. You may find that it is expensive , you don't have much opportunity to price shop, and selection may be limited. Don't forget batteries for your light meter or camera.

now go pack!

good luck Jan
 
Ray,

I think I already said once that all of Dubrovnik is just one big photo-op 🙂
Don't forget to take the tour of the city walls and take a few shots from there.

I envy you 🙂

Denis
 
Ray, that sounds like a fabulous cruise! Really interesting itinerary. It's been ages since I've been to Istanbul, and Efsos (Ephesus) and other historical sites nearby. Probably has changed a lot... be interesting to see your pics!
 
Ray,
My part of the world (Greece, Turkey) for many years. I'm sure you will have a great time.
Piraeus, Greece (Athens) -- Our permanent home is in Glyfada, an Athens suburb. Check out the Plaka in downtown Athens if you get the opportunity.
Istanbul, Turkey and Scenic Cruising Bosporus -- lived in Istanbul for several years. I'm sure you will be guided through the palaces (Topkapi, Dolmabahce) and Agia Sophia mseum. If you get a chance, near Agia Sophia is the old city cistern (Yerebatan Sarinci). Favorite restaurant, although a bit expensive, is the Korfez on the Asiatic side. Reservations needed. You get on their little boat on the European side at Rumeli Hisar, and they put-put across the Bosphorous while you sip a cocktail. The dock right at the restaurant dining room. Sea Bass (Levrek) baked in salt is their specialty. Kavaklidere Cankaya wine is dry and excellent with fish. Efsane for a more aromatic wine. Near the airport is what I consider the best meat restaurant in Turkey, if not the world. The owner is Beyti Gurler and the name of the restaurant is Beyti. Interesting classic architecture and walls adorned with the photos of the rich and famous who have dined there.
Scenic Cruising Sea Of Marmara -- Lived in Gemlik for a year. It's a very nice area famous for fresh produce, and world class olives. Best Marmara fish is the Lufer. Taste is a bit nutty and buttery. The ancient ruins of Troy are at the entrance to the Dardenelles.
Ephesus Some of the best kept Greek ruins, including the remnants of the temple of Diana -- one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world.
Santorini, Greece -- Once a circular volcanic island, it erupted about 1600 BC leaving a crescent shaped island with a smaller volcanic island in the center of the arc. Some believe the resulting tsunami wiped out the Minoan civilization in Crete. Just a beautiful spot with whitewashed buildings trimmed in blue. The sunset at OIA is very nice. Also, they discovered a buried, but abandoned, city in the 1950s while quarrying limestone for the Aswan dam in Egypt.
Cruising The Ionian Sea -- Our summer home is in Preveza, where Caesar Agustus defeated Mark Anthony and Cleopatra at the battle of Actium (now Aktion). The ruins of the ancient city of Nicopolis are nearby -- Roman ruins under Byzantine ruins. Ionian islands are beautiful -- Corfu, Zakinthos, Lefkas, Kefallinia, Paxoi. Porto Katsiki beach on Lefkas is spectacular. Parga on the mainland is also a beautiful spot. Rafting available on the Aheron river at Glyki. The Greek grand canyon is at Zagoria.
Check out some of my old images at:
http://richam.smugmug.com/Travel/19078
Any more questions, please ask. You can also contact me off line richam@mac.com
Have a great trip.
 
Been to two of the places on your list...

Piraeus, Greece - Not a whole lot to say about this place besides that its a place to catch the ferries to the islands like Santorini. I did spend an afternoon in the huge port and if you like merchant ships, its a great place to get right alongside for some interesting views of whatever might be docked there. Went to the morning markets, near the port, briefly and got some shots of customers haggling with the vendors there.

Venice, Italy - Touristy it may be but go for a ride in a Gondola. It'd cost you but cruising through the many canals, especially the smaller and quieter ones, is just a true Italian experience. Visit one of the many stores selling Venician masks and watch the craftsmen at work, great photo opportunities there. St. Mark's Cathedral is great, especially if you ascend the tower to catch a bird's eye view of Venice. The square is also beautiful in the morning when the sea fog sometimes roll in. I thoroughly enjoyed walking the many different alleyways, spent 3 days in the little place and thought that wasn't enough. Bring an umbrella along, it's going to be a wet and cold place in October.
 
Just been to Venice. Beautiful city. But tons and tons of tourists. Small, beautiful streets, just great. Gandola rides are expensive from 80 euros and up. But you gotta bargain with them a little. We paid 70 euros, still expensive, but it was worth it – a completely different perspective of the city.

Last time I was in Odessa was like 15 years ago. A beautiful sea-port town. It must be a lot more westernized now. Can't give you any specific tips, though. (some folks in FSU forum may know more 🙂

As far as equipment, I noticed that when I have 2 or 3 cameras with me, I keep switching them for diferent situations, or when I see something great, all of a sudden I dont know which camera I should take. So I try to take one camera with me now, less things to worry about and enjoy the vacation.

On my last trip I didnt take an SLR, just had my revue with 40mm lens, and a minox 35. Worked out fine.

Have fun!
 
Dubrovnik - make sure you climb the city walls (there are two sets of staircases; one on each end of the main street). You can go all the way around the city atop the walls; assuming you'll stop to take photographs, it'll take you about an hour and a half. Make sure to go in the morning or in the evening to get that magical light, of course.

Istanbul - if you've never been to a Turkish bath ("hamam"), indulge yourself. It's an experience truly foreign to us westerners. Make sure to visit a large, historical one (there are enough to take your pick from). There is a separate section for men and women. Give the attendant a few Lire and have yourself scrubbed down with a hard sponge. Photography is not allowed. The lockers are pretty safe, but you might want to leave your Summilux in the hotel room. 😉

Bosporus - I found this kinda boring, since I like to walk around, and the cruise ship is slooow. You'll be surrounded by other tourists. Unless you're a genius, your photos will be kinda dull, as you will need a long zoom lens to get any riverside detail standing on the ship. The old riverside houses are nice, but I'm sure you can get similar views along the Mississippi. However, it might be fun to take the cruise as a means of getting to the Sea of Marmara or the Black Sea.

Venice - point your camera just about anywhere without looking through the viewfinder and you'll get a beautifully-composed, tacky postcard shot. 😉 It will be difficult to avoid the cliché in what may well be the most photographed city in the world, but you may enjoy the challenge. Don't get me wrong; I love Venice. Take a Vaporetto to San Michele and visit the cemetery, if you're into that. It's very atmospheric (and photogenic). Check the Internet to see if any of your favorite celebrities are buried there. Also make sure to visit the Lido. If you're a fan of Visconti's "Death in Venice", you'll recognize many of the settings. Hotel des Bains is the actual hotel in which the author, Thomas Mann, stayed when he gathered inspiration for the novella, and part of the film was made there too. October should actually be a good time to visit the Lido, as it will no longer be swarming with tourists, and you'll get to amble across vast expanses of beach with your wife at your leisure.

Gawd, I would just love to visit the other places you mention. You've made very good choices there. Take lots of film and your favorite camera bag!
 
I would also suggest some fast film - you are likely to see lots of good nightlife along all of the Black Sea and Mediterranean coastal towns. "Normal" colour neg film will be available anywhere on your journey. Possibly not exotic slide/b&w films.

Along with Venice and Dubrovnik I would say Santorini is very photogenic but rocky - be prepared for some walking/hiking.

There should be some good opportunities for "street photography" on the ship!

Enjoy the trip - show us some photos on your return.
 
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Been to about half those places, including Constanta just a few months ago. You might be surprised at how lively and modern it is, given its recent communist history. A big port city that's also the main summer tourist destination for Romanians, so lots and lots and lots of seasonal beach hotels and restaurants. If the cruise itinerary lets you, try to do an evening walk along the seaside in the old part of town, where there's a wide promenade with government buildings on one side and the water on the other. Or, if you're there at the other end of the day, Romanians find it an almost mystical experience to watch the sunrise over the Black Sea.

On the Bosporus, don't forget that the World War I battle of Galipoli was fought on the north side. Just looking at the terrain will give you a healthy appreciation of this defining moment in Turkish (and British Empire) history. On the opposite chore, Canakale is the city where a local British merchant/diplomat told Heinrich Schlemann that, if he wanted to find the ruins of ancient Troy, he might try an old rocky hill a few miles inland. Schleman found the lost city. The Aegean near the mouth of the Bosporus is visible from the stately ruins of Troy, but I'm not sure you'd be able to pick it out from the sea.
 
I just got to work, and Wow, so much incredible advice. I will need to pop in from time to time today to read and digest them. Thanks to all.

Francisco, we were in Barcelona last year! Beautiful place. Surely we will be back soon. 🙂

Keep 'em coming. 😀
 
Vince,
I believe you mean the Dardenelles, not the Bosporus. The former is between the Aegean and Marmara; latter between Marmara and Black Sea. Anyway, I've spent a lot of time in Turkey but never checked out the ANZAC memorial on Gallipoli (Gelibolu). Did you see it? ls it worth a trip?
 
You're right. It's the Dardenelles, not the Bosporus (ie., near the mouth of the Aegean). However, the cruise route appears to be going through there as well.

I've never seen the Anzac memorial. My wife and I travelled through the Turkish Aegean on our honeymoon about 14 years ago. We made it as far as Canakale (spelling uncertain) but not to the opposite shore to view any of the battlefield sites.

One of the stops in Turkey might offer (probably will offer) a visit to a carpet factory. These can be fascinating. During our visit back in 1991, elementary-school girls did much of the carpet weaving because of their small fingers. There are varying strongly held views on how much this constitutes forced child labor, and working conditions vary. We visited a company that was extremely proud of how well it was treating the children, having set up a schools, etc. I fear not all carpets are woven by enlightened entrepeneurs.
 
VinceC said:
We made it as far as Canakale (spelling uncertain) but not to the opposite shore to view any of the battlefield sites.
That would be Çanakkale, "kale" meaning fort. The Ç (a capital C with cedilla in case your computer doesn't display it) has a Ch sound and both k's are sounded.
 
Istanbul - leather factories too - amazing, the mosques like the Blue Mosque and the bazaars - a wonderful city with great people . You will make many friends! Dubrovnik is (or was) absolutely stunning - I don't know how much it was damaged a few years ago but as I recall it was built by the Venetians and when you get to Venice you will see just how badly it has deteriorated because of the water and industrial pollution. But as someone said point your camera anywhere in both places... What a wonderful trip!

 
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