danielnorton
Daniel Norton
Lots of good advice here, if you love the feel of the RF and want to try auto focus, I would recommend the Konica Hexar AF (vs an autofocus slr)
Photographing active children
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sf
Veteran
If I were trying to keep up with some children like that, I'd want a super fast focusing lens like the kit lens on the Nikon D200. I'd want something with an incredibly fast shutterspeed. I'd want something with powerful tracking focus.
Or, I'd want a responsive RF with zero shutterlag, hair trigger, easy focusing lenses. Leica M7/35mm Summicron.
Heliar 15mm.
Or, I'd want a responsive RF with zero shutterlag, hair trigger, easy focusing lenses. Leica M7/35mm Summicron.
Heliar 15mm.
raid
Dad Photographer
VinceC said:
I agree with Vince.
I have been trying taking good photos of my two children (20 months and 3 years), and I using a wide angle lens works best for me. The other method is playing one kid against the other. I tell one child "look how nice your sister sits for a photo" and then see ger sit still 😀
Raid
akptc
Shoot first, think later
While I have had decent luck catching my kids with the wide DOF of 15 to 35mm lenses, I usually opt to grab the Contax G2 to any birthday parties or other kid events. The G2 seems to work very well for me in those circumstances.
anselwannab
Well-known
I really like Max35mm techniques of big depth of field and panning. Would only really work if they are going in one direction, and the blurred background might get old, but it makes great looking pics.
I was amazed with my 20D with 70-200/2.8L IS in servo AF mode when I took pics of my son on a swing set. 95% had to be in focus. Simply amazing.
I'd have to think that with some practice, you might get better at focusing, almost get a feel for it. The tough part is the RF patch only being in the center, what boring shots.
The wide versus tele trade off is just that. DOF depends on the relative size of the object. To get a full frame face shot with a wide angle, you need to be very close, and at say f4 the depth of field is going to be the same as if you were farther away but used a tele lens at F4, as long as the the face is the same size in the frame. No one uses a 28mm lens close enough for portraits to get a full frame face shot, they stand the same distance away. At the same distance away the same face has different sizes relative to the focal length of the lens.
Angle of view also has an effect. There were some shots taken by a guy of a doll with lenses from wide to super telephoto. He kept the size of the doll in the frame the same moved closer or farther away depending to keep the the doll the same size. He had an object closer to the camera and one farther and then shot at different apertures to show the depth of field
I just really mangled that, and I don't want to get into a DOF and focal length post.
Mark
I was amazed with my 20D with 70-200/2.8L IS in servo AF mode when I took pics of my son on a swing set. 95% had to be in focus. Simply amazing.
I'd have to think that with some practice, you might get better at focusing, almost get a feel for it. The tough part is the RF patch only being in the center, what boring shots.
The wide versus tele trade off is just that. DOF depends on the relative size of the object. To get a full frame face shot with a wide angle, you need to be very close, and at say f4 the depth of field is going to be the same as if you were farther away but used a tele lens at F4, as long as the the face is the same size in the frame. No one uses a 28mm lens close enough for portraits to get a full frame face shot, they stand the same distance away. At the same distance away the same face has different sizes relative to the focal length of the lens.
Angle of view also has an effect. There were some shots taken by a guy of a doll with lenses from wide to super telephoto. He kept the size of the doll in the frame the same moved closer or farther away depending to keep the the doll the same size. He had an object closer to the camera and one farther and then shot at different apertures to show the depth of field
I just really mangled that, and I don't want to get into a DOF and focal length post.
Mark
raid
Dad Photographer
I was going to mention panning as one of the creative ways to get active children "in focus". It works very well and easily with wide angle lenses. It is more challenging with longer lenses.
Raid
Raid
VinceC
Veteran
If you've got bright enough sun you don't necessarily get motion blur in the backgrounds when you're panning. My two 28mm shots I posted earlier in the thread happened to have been made at or near dusk. But if the light had been stronger, they wouldn't have been nearly so blurred.
I think autofocus can actually be worse for this type of stuff. With autofocus, you're almost required to keep the subject centered on the AF patch in the center of the frame. With an RF, once I started experimenting a little with zone focusing and pre-focusing, I found it was a lot easier to compose shots artistically, so to speak, because I didn't have to keep the RF patch centered.
I think autofocus can actually be worse for this type of stuff. With autofocus, you're almost required to keep the subject centered on the AF patch in the center of the frame. With an RF, once I started experimenting a little with zone focusing and pre-focusing, I found it was a lot easier to compose shots artistically, so to speak, because I didn't have to keep the RF patch centered.
anselwannab
Well-known
Also on Flashes, I use a vivitar 283 with a digital hot shoe slave that is triggered by my on camera 20D flash. I put a 3x5 card wedged in front of the flash so that the flash doesn't got straight for the subject, but still is strong enough to trigger the slaved 283. On the 283 I use a P&S camera tripod to dold it and a small soft-box. I still usually aim it at the cieling for a really well difused light.
Shot in manual mode and try some test shots (easier in digital) to get the right exposure.
Mark
Shot in manual mode and try some test shots (easier in digital) to get the right exposure.
Mark
ghost
Well-known
well, first you need a fast af slr, like a canon 1dmkii or nikon d2hs. then you need a professional telephoto zoom, such as the 70-200 f2.8. if you're indoors, or outside when it's getting dim, you'll want a powerful dedicated flash, like the canon 580ex or nikon sb-800, and mount it on a stroboframe pro-rl flash bracket or something similar.
no, i am not being silly. af slrs are the best way to get a frame-filling picture of a little kid running around. in rangefinder land, you're better off taking a different approach, using a 35mm or 28mm lens, zone focusing, and not filling the frame with the kid.
no, i am not being silly. af slrs are the best way to get a frame-filling picture of a little kid running around. in rangefinder land, you're better off taking a different approach, using a 35mm or 28mm lens, zone focusing, and not filling the frame with the kid.
raid
Dad Photographer
I have done hundreds of photos with reflected flash light, but they don't have the three-dimensional look as those obtained from a window lit scene or person. Another favorite location forme is the front porch.Having the strong Florida sun outside makes the open shade light enough for beautiful photos.
Raid
Raid
raid
Dad Photographer
I may be getting a Summarit! 🙂
Raid
Raid
amateriat
We're all light!
Big, AF-zoom equipped SLRs (film or digital?)? Nope. Too big and clumsy, IMO (and, yes, I've shot with a Canon 1D; it's little wonder so much PJ work is dull as dishwater). If it's AF, small and swift makes more sense; my faves in that department include the Hexar AF and Ricoh GR-1 series (I've frequently used the latter in hyperfocal mode, which is even faster than its impressive AF mode). Otherwise, besides not using any manual-focus lens longer than 50mm, patience is key, since even the most rambunctious child's mainspring has to run down at some point. (Tech notes: first pic shot with Hexar RF, 50mm f/2 M-Hex, XP-2 Super, 2004; second photo taken last week, 28mm M-Hex, Kodak BW400CN)
- Barrett
- Barrett
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wintoid
Back to film
If you want to take a portrait, one trick I picked up along the way is to tell the child you want to take a picture of their favourite toy. Usually, the child stops tearing around, sits down very seriously, positions the toy on his/her lap and looks at the camera for approval. Great trick, used it several times on several kids, and has never failed me.
Of course it doesn't actually help you catch the child in motion, but I thought I'd offer it up anyway.
Of course it doesn't actually help you catch the child in motion, but I thought I'd offer it up anyway.
akptc
Shoot first, think later
Wow, this sounds like a great idea, will have to try it this weekend with my kids - thanks!wintoid said:
raid
Dad Photographer
Me too. I will try out this trick. Thanks.
Raid
Raid
derevaun
focus free
Another thing to try is catching the child when they're momentarily still, as when they're just about to jump, run, scream, dive, change directions, etc. Lots of times they'll be mentally already in motion, and sometimes the pose is amazing. It burns up a lot of missed tries, but sometimes you get something great. Not a technique for digital 🙂
raid
Dad Photographer
I prefocused with a Nikkor 105mm lens @ 2.5.
Raid
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?topic_id=1481&msg_id=00HO8E&photo_id=4714191&photo_sel_index=0
Raid
http://photo.net/photodb/photo?topic_id=1481&msg_id=00HO8E&photo_id=4714191&photo_sel_index=0
amateriat
We're all light!
Really nice photo, Raid! You've indeed caught the moment. Good color as well, at least via my laptop screen.
- Barrett
- Barrett
raid
Dad Photographer
amateriat said:
Barrett: The borrowed Nikkor 105mm/2.5 lens may have played a role in addition to the old style Fujicolor 100 film to get these pastel colors. Glad you like the photo.
Raid
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
Though I loved my old 105/2.5 Nikkor, switching to the 85/2.0
gave me lots more keepers photographing the little ones...
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
gave me lots more keepers photographing the little ones...
"Excelsior, you fathead!"
-Chris-
