Picking up an M6 .58 anything I should know

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infosecgeek

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The only film I have shot in the last 10 years has been a Lomo LC-A RL and a Lubitel 166.. Have been shooting Canon for 15 years with most of my recent paid work being motorsports...

A few months back I purchased an Olympus E-P2 and several voigtlander M lenses... (15 f/4.5, 28 f/2, 35 1.2 and 50 f/1.1) and have really started to love street photography... I couldn't imagine doing this with a big dSLR... Either way I was going to purchase a Bessa to get into rangefinders but found a decent deal on a used M6. I mostly only shoot B&W and have started developing my own rolls. In terms of scanning I am purchasing a CanonScan 8800F. I can't justify a full film scanner as this will only be for pleasure.. I am going to get a few rolls of TriX and neopan 400 to get started with... Anything I should know about the camera?? I have read a little bit bout focusing and how the M6 TTL isn't necessarily the most accurate...

I have made a deal with this guy on getDPI http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14997

The E-P2 is great little camera, but I really really want the film look without manipulation (I have seen a couple of M8s in the 2K range)... These are recent shots with the E-P2..

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Sounds like you are off to a great start. The M6 .58 is a rare bird account not many being made. They are supposed to be particularly good for 28 and 35 mm lenses such as you have. The lower magnification finder is good for seeing more through the finder if you wear specks or use wider lenses. I've only ever used a normal magnification Leica so I don't speak from experience but there is only one way to find out and that's by jumping in and trying it.

Have fun. I'm sure you'll enjoy the leica.
 
the 0.58 TTL has more accurate focusing than a SLR with wides and probmore accurate than any CV boddy due to the longer base length despite lower mag. It is plenty accurate for all uses, perhaps except with really fast longer lenses. I have one.
 
My .58 bodies are my most used cameras. Perfect for the 35mm lenses for those of us who wear glasses. They also make the use of the 28mm possible without an auxiliary finder. I've not felt the need for the finder upgrade with the .58 M6.. They don't seem to flare any more than the .58 MP finder. They are a fine choice for all but the fastest of the long lenses. With the 75 Lux or 90 AA, I will use a .72 body or the M3. Otherwise, I reach for a .58 body.
 
I *only* use 0.58 finders,. being a life-long spectacles wearer. To me, the 0.58 pairs wonderfully with a 35mm but I do also use it with 50s and have no difficulties whatsoever (50/2s, mind you, not 50/1.1s). I do find my M6TTL a bit more flare-prone than my M7, which has an MP finder in it, but it isn't a huge difference. And the M7 is also the slightest touch brighter. The meter diodes in the M6 viewfinder are also larger and (unless it's my imagination) brighter too.

So there are slight differences but by and large my 0.58 M6 is indistinguishable from my M7 is usage.

The M6TTL 0.58 is a great camera.
 
The slightest error in range-finder adjustment magnifies focus errors with fast lenses, taking into consideration distance and focal length also. The same is true of user error, which may derive from poor vision.
 
Just picked it up.. Thanks all.. Have some initial trouble focusing it outside.. However it is getting easier... We'll see what the first roll brings.. .I just Tri-X 400 for my first roll.... Will take some getting used to shooting vertical as my normal finger placement is over the viewfinder..

Also am I doing something wrong with the meter??? When I picked it up we met at a chain sub shop.. When I try to shoot with my E-P2 or 5D2 ISO 400 @ f/1.2 never meters in evaluative at 1/250.. The red dot was perfect at 1/250.

I will bring my sekonic in tomorrow just to see if It is me or the camera.
 
The M6 uses center-weighted metering. I needed a bit of time to get used to it (I own a M6 0.72, non TTL).

The problem for me was to expose shadows correctly in dark places. The meter is very sensitive. Pointing directly to a light source in the RF square will get you a severe underexposed frame. The user manual tells where the metering area is. Just measure light in a more or less neutral gray, far enough from the light source (bulbs or whatever) and see if that matches your usual reading with the digital cams/Sekonik meter.

By the way, great captures. I really like the second one.

Congrats on your purchase.

Cheers.
 
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Thanks Javimm the E-P2 made me fall in love with street photography, I can't wait to get out and shoot... I'm stoked!!!! Yeh I figured it was center... Outdoors I have been shooting with a lubitel so I am pretty confident in the exposure computer...

Thanks again all...
 
infosecgeek said:
Thanks all, you have lowered my hesitations..Will I be able to focus my 50 1.1???
Click to expand...

I have an M6TTL 0.58, and when I got it, I also bought the 1.25x magnifier (back when the Euro was fresh and new and weak). If I need critical focusing with the 90/2.8 I'll use the magnifier, or if I expect to use the 90 for a while, I'll put it on, as it makes it easier to see the whole rectangle. Sometimes I'll use the 1.25x with my 50/1.5 CV. The 1.25x turns it into a .72x finder temporarily. It stays in its case attached to the strap and doesn't get in the way when I'm not using it.

I also use the 1.25x with the 135/2.8 lens with "eyes," which works quite well, but is a bit silly looking. I've gotten good focus even at 2.8 with that combo.

Drew
 
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