pink negatives?

mooge

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I developed my second roll today- Tri-X in HC-110. again, good results, but this one is really disappointing- I have massive light leaks. I thought I fixed that! a few good shots ruined...

anyway, both my negatives are pinkish- today's Tri-X and yesterday's TMAX 100. is that bad? is it the fixer? mine probably has expired ages ago... a half full bottle...

IMGP0893.jpg

(rubbish , I know, but you get the point from here...)

cheers,
Dragunov
 
My Tri-x and TMax always come out slightly purple or pinkish. I think it is completely normal and is caused by the anti-halation coating. Pre-soaking and washing are the only ways I know of to help get rid of some of the color.
 
Try fixing longer and with more agitation. Fixer gets "used up" by disolving the undeveloped silver in the film. You seem to be getting just partial fixing. It's incomplete. T-max seems to take longer to fix than conventional films of the same speed. How long are you fixing the film.
 
i have recently come by a helpful tip. Expose the negatives to some daylight, just lay em out all sleeved up in your window and let the sun hit em, in about 20 minutes or so they start to clear right up.

that being said, the pink cast does nothing, it's no big deal.
 
let them sit in a distilled water for an hour after you are done... it will all go away. It doesn't have anything to do with fixing (though extended fixing will also take it out).
 
Your negatives look about as clear as mine get. When I first started developing my own film and I was none the wiser, I vastly underfixed my negs. I didn't realize I was doing anything wrong until much later when I saw what someone else's looked like.

Even though they were underfixed, I can still make prints from them and they don't seem to be impacted in any way.

From what I can tell, your negs look fine.
 
Your negatives seems to have come out pretty clear. I can't say how helpful or accurate it is for other people but perma wash and a good 10 mins of rinsing help cut back on a lot of pink in the negatives.

I also second the daylight method of removing any color tint in the negatives but I only put them in indirect sunlight.
I also hang them up in the bathroom and pull the blinds open for some daylight. They come out of the reels with a slight tint but clear up in a couple of hours after they have dried.
 
I was getting very dark pink stained negatives until I stopped using a Stop Bath (Kodak). This reduced most of the pinkness and since then I fix longer and give more agitation. This has cured the pint staining for all but T grain films.
 
"Your fixer will be exhausted more rapidly with this film
than with other films. If your negatives show a magenta
(pink) stain after fixing, your fixer may be near exhaustion,
or you may not have used a long enough time. If the stain
is slight, it will not affect image stability, negative contrast,
or printing times."
From the data of the new t-max film. I notice this also in my film yesterday. I develop by the first time a t-max, and a few frames had purple spots. I did 5m fixing. Got also tpo try the sun light method.​
 
Use fresh fix, then normal wash. If still pink, the just use a 3 minute soak a few times.

The key is fresh fix with frequent vigorous agitation. If the fixer does not do its job, nothing else is effective.
 
Well actually variable contrast papers are sensitive to magenta and green light, so theoretically speaking a pink/magenta cast to your film will effect printing.

I have seen this on Pan-F film occasionally. I don't know about tabular films though...

Fixing longer is NOT ADVISABLE! If you develop for edge/adjacency effects a longer fix time will nullify them. These are the first things to go as the fixer starts to eat away at even the developed silver.

Try longer wash times, and a hypo clear/perma wash first.

Kodak does not recommend a pre-soak. Pre soaks are generally more useful in alternative development techniques or tray processing.
 
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