Please help me get started. Diafine vs HC-110.

Having used both over the years, D76 is definately easier to use because, as others have noted, the dilution of HC110 is somewhat more difficult. But because of the longevity issues with D76, if you're not going to do a lot of developing in the next couple of months, then HC110 will suit you better. IMHO both give excellent results with TriX and PlusX which in the end is all that matters.
 
KenR said:
But because of the longevity issues with D76, if you're not going to do a lot of developing in the next couple of months, then HC110 will suit you better.
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I know D76 doesn't have a particularly long shelf life (especially compared to something like Rodinal -- how does 30-40 years sound?? :p), but I can't see somebody not shooting enough film to use it up before it expires.

Over here the 1 litre pack is most common. Even re-using it and extending times you might get, at most, maybe 15 rolls.

The 3.8 litre pack (I bought four of those cheaply recently -- expired last year, will be fine -- from a Canadian), using it one-shot with 1:1 dilution (as is most common) will give 30 rolls in a plastic tank. Maybe it's just because I'm from the digital age and am a little trigger happy but who wouldn't shoot 30 rolls over 6 months!

By the way: Ilford's ID-11 is identical to D76. Ilford also make another brilliant developer, Microphen. You treat it similarly to D76, it costs about the same, lasts longer and you don't have to hide it from light. But it's biggest plus is that it's a speed-increasing compensating developer (like your Diafine). You get a good 2/3rds of a stop, and the compensation means that you get a lot more shadow detail compared with D76 when pushing film. The compensation also means it's very forgiving for a beginner (I started with it); if you leave your film in the soup too long, or overexposed, you won't blow highlights. You can almost shoot different ISOs on the same film and soup it for the lowest common denominator and you'll still get printable negs.
 
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I started with Diafine and have stuck with it for the most part. It's extremely easy to use, shelf life is excellent and I've been very pleased with results. Other than one roll I developed in Rodinal, every other frame of B&W film I've done has been in Diafine.

I go for a little longer time in solution A than recommended. I usually double the time. I know in theory it's not supposed to matter, but I like the results.

Feel free to look over my film gallery...

http://www.dangrabbit.com/photography/film

Of course, take with a grain of salt as relatively speaking, I'm a film-developing-beginner :)
 
HC110 works well diluting from the syrup rather than making a stock solution. You can get a syringe without a needle to measure it. I've used it with the H dilution for the longer developing time - a very sharp neg with a bit more grain than I usually like but the tonality is fine. I now use either Xtol, D76, or D23 for a regular developer. But I always keep mixed Diafine ready to go - it does a nice job if you want to rate TriX at 1250/1600, but you MUST follow the agitation directions on the box. If you don't, the grain blows up.
 
I have used both developers extensively.

Diafine is very easy, and works well with Tri-X at ISO1200. However, you'll get relatively low contrast negs that you'll swear at when the time comes to print them in the darkroom. But to start with, fine. If you do a lot of high contrast shooting (hint: concerts), Tri-X + Diafine becomes downright unbeatable.

Don't listen to the people claiming that HC-110 should be avoided. It is an excellent all-round developer. If you are worried about developing times and exact amounts, go for higher dlutions to suit what you like best. I use it because the concentrate lasts for ever.

I have never used D76, but by all accounts, it is a good, classic developer, suited to beginners and pro's alike.
 
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