d_ross
Registered User
ok then raw fish 
eli griggs
Well-known
Weston IV or V or Luner Pro.
Eli
Eli
40oz
...
Abbazz said:And it's not that good when it comes to metering, because it tends to equalize the light levels throughout a wide range of illuminations. For example, when the light level starts to decrease at the end of the day, your brain automatically compensates the "exposure" so the image you see seems as bright as when the sun was higher in the sky.
The human eye is very good at performing light level comparisons (like comparing a light level to a known reference) but it is not a very good tool when it comes to measuring absolute illuminations. People adjusting their camera settings without any help from a light meter tend to rely mostly on experience and judgment, even if they won't admit it.
Cheers,
Abbazz
I think the idea was to use the brain/ not the eyes. If you KNOW it is getting dark, you can adjust the camera. Your eyes are there for taking observations, so your brain can note the direction, the quality, the color, the amount, etc. of the light. As d_ross points out, your brain can compensate for decreased light levels via experience and intent.
Seriously, it isn't that hard. But never doing it is the main reason people think they can't.
Graham Line
Well-known
Gossens are nice. What's identified as a Sixtar above is the Super Pilot in the US and Gossen has an adapter available to convert it from PX625 mercury cells to available silver cells.
For lower light I like a Sekonic 308BII. There are several variations on this which all use 1 AA cell. Don't get the Sekonic very wet . . .
Yes, you can learn to estimate light pretty well but a decent meter is always good to have.
For lower light I like a Sekonic 308BII. There are several variations on this which all use 1 AA cell. Don't get the Sekonic very wet . . .
Yes, you can learn to estimate light pretty well but a decent meter is always good to have.
Share: