Vickko
Veteran
So, shooting Polaroids with my Crown Graphic.
I shot a photo today and think is was over-exposed. I think.
So - if the photo is overly white - is it over-exposed? This is the opposite of a negative (black = burned in = over-exposed, is that right)?
And, it was cold out, but I walked into a store. I started the development outside but the last half of time was in the store.
So - does over-development result in an overly white image? Same as over-exposure?
I'm guessing since there is a range of time-temperature, that Polaroid film doesn't just "develop and stop", but keeps on developing until it is over-developed.
And is "over-developed" a whitish image?
Thanks
I shot a photo today and think is was over-exposed. I think.
So - if the photo is overly white - is it over-exposed? This is the opposite of a negative (black = burned in = over-exposed, is that right)?
And, it was cold out, but I walked into a store. I started the development outside but the last half of time was in the store.
So - does over-development result in an overly white image? Same as over-exposure?
I'm guessing since there is a range of time-temperature, that Polaroid film doesn't just "develop and stop", but keeps on developing until it is over-developed.
And is "over-developed" a whitish image?
Thanks
BLKRCAT
75% Film
was it polaroid film or fuji?
rjbuzzclick
Well-known
I would say it was overexposed. My understanding is that the Fuji instant peel-apart film stops development on it's own. I've waited much longer than the recomended time before peeling apart and I didn't notice any issues. When I've used instant film in the cold, I usually wait to pull out the film until the film pack has had a chance to warm up. Of course this means only one shot, but it's not an issue for me.
Vickko
Veteran
Thanks, I am using Fuji FP100c.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Overexposed = lighter.
Muddy & dark = too short development time. Overdevelopment is a LOT more difficult than under-development.
These are the only variables with reasonably fresh film.
Cheers,
R.
Muddy & dark = too short development time. Overdevelopment is a LOT more difficult than under-development.
These are the only variables with reasonably fresh film.
Cheers,
R.
Vickko
Veteran
Thanks all
Oh, another question, can the photos be stored in plastic sleeves, the kind that are 4-photos per 8-1/2 x 11 sheet?
Or will the emulsion stick to the sleeve?
Oh, another question, can the photos be stored in plastic sleeves, the kind that are 4-photos per 8-1/2 x 11 sheet?
Or will the emulsion stick to the sleeve?
Harry Caul
Well-known
After they are FULLY dry you should be able to put them in sleeves like the following: http://www.clearbags.com/catalog/product/view/id/511
However, I'm not sure how long "fully" really is. A day later I haven't had any problems. However, hours (like 2-3) after taking some snaps, a friend of mine put some in a free notebook page and they marred the glossy finish.
Another problem I need a solution for is what to do with wet pics while you are out on the street? If you are using Fuji film, you can just wait until you get home to develop (I know for certain that the color self-terminates development). But where is the fun in that?
However, I'm not sure how long "fully" really is. A day later I haven't had any problems. However, hours (like 2-3) after taking some snaps, a friend of mine put some in a free notebook page and they marred the glossy finish.
Another problem I need a solution for is what to do with wet pics while you are out on the street? If you are using Fuji film, you can just wait until you get home to develop (I know for certain that the color self-terminates development). But where is the fun in that?
giulio stucchi
Well-known
while shooting peel apart film (small or large format) in the street i usually carry with me some pre cut backing paper to store the prints. the fuji ones are not a big issue but polaroid type 669, 125 can be pretty sticky and they dry easily this way.
I should take out my polaroids again...
I should take out my polaroids again...