raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
hi, i bought 152m of Poly Pan F, rated iso 50.
I think this is a surveillance film, and I bought it
cheap during the "film is soon dead, so stock up
and head for the hills" panic.
152 meters is roughly 500 ft. A bulk loader
can load 100 feet of film into 18-20 canisters of
36 exposures.
at 500 ft, it is going to take a long time, especially
shooting at iso 50 (ISO 50.... when was the last time
anyone shot at iso 50 ?!)
the other problem was , what time to use for development,
and can i push to iso 100 or even iso 200 ?
I shot about 3 rolls on Sunday and i gave it to lab Fotohub to
develop, i told them to use Ilford Pan F as the development time, but
one canister for No push, one canister for half-push and the last
for 1-stop push development. I shot everything at iso 50.
I want to see if I the times were around the ballpark or not.
To be consistent, i used my m6ttl to meter and shoot so that i could reduce any variances.
i think ilford pan-f timing works for Poly Pan F. The base material
is very thin, and i noticed that there is no anti-halantion backing,
so that light bounces around and causes halo-like images on the negatives.
here are some images i shot:
No Push
======
Push 1/2 stop
=========
I think this is a surveillance film, and I bought it
cheap during the "film is soon dead, so stock up
and head for the hills" panic.
152 meters is roughly 500 ft. A bulk loader
can load 100 feet of film into 18-20 canisters of
36 exposures.
at 500 ft, it is going to take a long time, especially
shooting at iso 50 (ISO 50.... when was the last time
anyone shot at iso 50 ?!)
the other problem was , what time to use for development,
and can i push to iso 100 or even iso 200 ?
I shot about 3 rolls on Sunday and i gave it to lab Fotohub to
develop, i told them to use Ilford Pan F as the development time, but
one canister for No push, one canister for half-push and the last
for 1-stop push development. I shot everything at iso 50.
I want to see if I the times were around the ballpark or not.
To be consistent, i used my m6ttl to meter and shoot so that i could reduce any variances.
i think ilford pan-f timing works for Poly Pan F. The base material
is very thin, and i noticed that there is no anti-halantion backing,
so that light bounces around and causes halo-like images on the negatives.
here are some images i shot:
No Push
======


Push 1/2 stop
=========


raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
lastly push 1 stop.
===========
some observations, though not conclusive:
a. the negatives are certainly very usable across the
3 development times, though at 1x push, the contrast
is bit too high.
b. the negatives are quite grainy for a iso 50 film. but the
grains are also quite sharp, considering that this was shot mainly
with the canon 50, f1.2 on the m6ttl. (the canon is known
not to be sharp). the developer used by Fotohub is D-76
aka Ilford's ID-11.
c. Shooting without anti-halant film backing reminds of
the leica glow. See the arm of Ronald McDonald, and how
it is "glowing" ?
d. I noticed that when i used flash on skin, the result is
very metallic. Need to experiment more. very nice.
e. Shooting ISO 50 is very challenging but fun. At least I am
stuck to about 100 rolls of this film.... hahhaha
raytoei
===========


some observations, though not conclusive:
a. the negatives are certainly very usable across the
3 development times, though at 1x push, the contrast
is bit too high.
b. the negatives are quite grainy for a iso 50 film. but the
grains are also quite sharp, considering that this was shot mainly
with the canon 50, f1.2 on the m6ttl. (the canon is known
not to be sharp). the developer used by Fotohub is D-76
aka Ilford's ID-11.
c. Shooting without anti-halant film backing reminds of
the leica glow. See the arm of Ronald McDonald, and how
it is "glowing" ?
d. I noticed that when i used flash on skin, the result is
very metallic. Need to experiment more. very nice.
e. Shooting ISO 50 is very challenging but fun. At least I am
stuck to about 100 rolls of this film.... hahhaha
raytoei
newtorf
Established
I am surprised how grainy it is, looks like EI 400 film to me...
pschauss
Well-known
I shoot it at 100 and develop it for 16:00 in Rodinal 1+50. I get good results if I shoot in bright sunshine, but shots on an overcast day look really dull.
petronius
Veteran
Polypan F is no surveillance film, the german distributor told me that it is used for copying cine film. I develop it stand APH09 1+100 one hour (ten agitations at start).
Filzkoeter
stray animal
Bought a 90m roll some days ago and I kinda like this film. And it's awesomely cheap. You can't go wrong for it's price.
Both were exposed at EI 200 and developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 17 minutes. The negatives were a little bit on the thin side, but scanned pretty well. Will shoot the next roll @100 and develop for 16min.


Both were exposed at EI 200 and developed in Rodinal 1+50 for 17 minutes. The negatives were a little bit on the thin side, but scanned pretty well. Will shoot the next roll @100 and develop for 16min.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
petronius: you are right. i got it mixed up 
newtorf: i think the grains you see is a result of my post processing.
raytoei
newtorf: i think the grains you see is a result of my post processing.
raytoei
shadowfox
Darkroom printing lives
That is super good, Ray!
filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
Some time's referred to as "Dupe Negative" in films labs.
You can generally tell Cine films based on the Bell and Howel perforations (rounded). Cine films are rarely done in estar (a jam in a 24 frames per second camera = an expensive camera destroyed), but most dupe films are.
I've played around with it, mostly in D76 and mainly gotten some very contrasty shots.
You can generally tell Cine films based on the Bell and Howel perforations (rounded). Cine films are rarely done in estar (a jam in a 24 frames per second camera = an expensive camera destroyed), but most dupe films are.
I've played around with it, mostly in D76 and mainly gotten some very contrasty shots.
Polypan F is no surveillance film, the german distributor told me that it is used for copying cine film. I develop it stand APH09 1+100 one hour (ten agitations at start).
Requin
Established
Finally I've got some good results for polypan f: 23 min in Rodinal 1+50 @20°C, agitation the first minute every 3 seconds, than 5 seconds every minute. Not too much grain and a nice curve.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor

Polypan F @ 50 iso, developed in Td 201 (2 bath developer - Anchell/Troop "The film developing cookbook). This was a test roll, shot just to check the speed. Leica R6 and Macro Elmarit 60mm f2.8. The grain is fine and the tonal range OK - though I think the ORWO 54 @ 100 is better with this developer combination. The sunny weather sems to ne staying on - so I will shoot some more in the next couple of days. I found a 90 m can at the Bievre camera swap, outside Paris in June.
Requin
Established
Forgot to write @100 ASA/ISO
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
having used about 10 rolls of PPF50. here are somemore observations:
a. love the tonality of the film. under certain circumstances, hair and skin seem to sparkle when contrast / brightness are adjusted.
b. Very thin and very flat, easy to scan. I had a bit of problems feeding it into some of my cameras but those were nothing more than just minor issues.
c. It is more grainy than Ilford Pan F but less so than 400 film. D76 developer is nice. Rodinal at room temperature produces large marble grains.
here is a picture that has been adjusted fro contrast, brightness etc:
Was in suntec, saw this chap with a tiger and dragon.
couldn't resist, asked politely, wish was granted.
M6TTL with CV 35f1.4 Film is Polypan F iso 50.
Post processing to add contrast and bring out grains.
raytoei
a. love the tonality of the film. under certain circumstances, hair and skin seem to sparkle when contrast / brightness are adjusted.
b. Very thin and very flat, easy to scan. I had a bit of problems feeding it into some of my cameras but those were nothing more than just minor issues.
c. It is more grainy than Ilford Pan F but less so than 400 film. D76 developer is nice. Rodinal at room temperature produces large marble grains.
here is a picture that has been adjusted fro contrast, brightness etc:

Was in suntec, saw this chap with a tiger and dragon.
couldn't resist, asked politely, wish was granted.
M6TTL with CV 35f1.4 Film is Polypan F iso 50.
Post processing to add contrast and bring out grains.
raytoei
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
btw, you can buy this film at ridiculous price,
eg. 39 usd for 152M (aprox 500 feet!)
with 2014 expiration date.
search on ebay.
(not related to seller)
raytoei
eg. 39 usd for 152M (aprox 500 feet!)
with 2014 expiration date.
search on ebay.
(not related to seller)
raytoei
maddoc
... likes film again.
The only frame that came out OK for me ... (Rodinal 1:50)

raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
maddoc, i find that i need to use
a camera with a meter to shoot
this film. I am coming to grips
with iso 50 for street.
very nice picture by the way,
did you use a tripod ?
raytoei
a camera with a meter to shoot
this film. I am coming to grips
with iso 50 for street.
very nice picture by the way,
did you use a tripod ?
raytoei
maddoc
... likes film again.
maddoc, i find that i need to use
a camera with a meter to shoot
this film. I am coming to grips
with iso 50 for street.
very nice picture by the way,
did you use a tripod ?
raytoei
raytoi,
I don`t use a meter for photography at night. Usually, 400ISO = 1/60s @f/1.0 which makes 1/8s @f/1.0 in this case (50ISO rated). No tripod, pure luck!
Cheers,
Gabor
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Okay, Maddoc, I am going to memorize this 1/60 at f1.0 @ 400. thanks for the tip.
raytoi,
I don`t use a meter for photography at night. Usually, 400ISO = 1/60s @f/1.0 which makes 1/8s @f/1.0 in this case (50ISO rated). No tripod, pure luck!
Cheers,
Gabor
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
hi,
i resized the original scanned image, and converted it to jpg.
this is a straight scanned image without any adjustment.
http://retro.ms11.net/uneditedtigerdragon.jpg
raytoei
i resized the original scanned image, and converted it to jpg.
this is a straight scanned image without any adjustment.
http://retro.ms11.net/uneditedtigerdragon.jpg
raytoei
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
here are 2 more images, there are interesting when:
ppf 50 + rodinal + wideopen, skin tones and hair tend to glow
under certain lighting conditions:
you can see the glowy forearm of the 2nd picture.
ppf 50 + rodinal + wideopen, skin tones and hair tend to glow
under certain lighting conditions:


you can see the glowy forearm of the 2nd picture.
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