Portugal

jpa66

Jan as in "Jan and Dean"
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This is for all those RFF members living in Portugal ( as well as those who have been there ).

My wife and I are beginning to plan our next trip, which we have decided will be to Portugal. Neither of us has been there before, and we are both very excited at the prospect to go and see the country. We've already decided that we're going to stay in Lisbon ( or Lisboa ) for four or five days, but are undecided about the rest of the trip. Based upon what I've already read about the country, it seems that we'd rather travel north instead of south. We're both interested in the old, historic cities, cultural points of interest, good food and markets, and good wine. I'd like to see if anyone in Portugal can suggest a few cities/towns/places to visit aside from Lisbon.

Thanks in advance,
Jan
 
We spent 3 weeks in Portugal back in 2008. We've done alot of traveling in Europe over the years but felt Portugal was Europe's best kept secret. We spent 5 days in Lisbon but stayed at my sister in law's condo in Tavira which is located on the south coast not to far from Spain, the rest of the time. Fantastic area for picture taking and sitting outside the many restaurants watching the boats come in. Tavira has a train station making it easy to explore the surrounding towns. You can take the high speed train from Lisbon to Faro then a commuter to Tavira.
 
It just depends on what you want to see/enjoy. Many will tell you to visit Coimbra, Guimaraes, Bragança, Braga (not so interesting this one) et al, but if you like to see real decadence in al its splendour, go up to Oporto, try its wine and stroll around the innards of the old town at the banks of the Rio Douro. And if you like good food - not that Portugal is bad on this theme - why not go to see Galicia, Spain, which is just a few hours up north with Santiago de Compostela as the only international port without any sea or river. Also available: the best seafood in Europe! And white Albariño/Ribeiro wine used to be the best kept secret until some 10 years ago. If you've got time on your side , you'll never want to go back home ever again, if not because it's always raining.:angel:
 
My father is from Portugal so I've been there many times. My favorite area to stay near Lisbon is a bit north, along the coast near the towns of Penedo/Troia/Almocageme. The nearest "big" touristy town in this area with commuter rails and such is Sintra. Personally, I love the beach and the beaches in this area are tops. Praia (beach) Adraga is accesible by car and has a great laid back seafood restaurant right on the beach. If you are willing to hike, the Praia Ursa is also right there and is IMHO, one of the most spectacular beaches in the
world. The coastline is jagged and there are huge rocks jutting up and out of the water. It feels and looks totally primevel and you'll have it mostly to yourself

I forgot to mention: rent a car.

Just south of Lisbon is an area called Costa Arrabida and it's a natural preserve so it's very nice. The coast here is more Mediterranean-like with turquoise water and lush vegatation. A nice daytrip would be south of Lisbon to the Arrabida, lunch in the port city of Setubal, then a bit further south to the abandoned cliffside sanctuary on Cabo Espichel. A place with views as breathtaking as it is eerie. Don't miss it!

If you are inclines to take a day trip east, you could hit the city of Evora then to the almost stuck in time medieval town of Monsaraz. Surrounded by a castle still and sitting on top of a hill overlooking the countryside. A fascinting place for sure! It's almost like it was shellacked several hundred years ago.

I have to go out my daughter to bed but I'll try to post more later and if you'd like to shoot me a PM, feel free! I love Portugal!
 
Hi Jan,

I live in Canada but my family is from central Portugal. I highly recommend spending some time in Coimbra. It was the first Portuguese capital. It is a very cosmopolitan city but small enough that most of the historical areas can be covered on foot. It is home to the oldest and most prestigious university in Portugal and at this time of the year, the city is bustling with university students that still wear the traditional black capes. Wonderful atmosphere and night life. There is always something to do there. It is the home of Coimbra-style Fado, which is a more formal than the Lisbon-style.

I have a condo in Coimbra and I try to go back every 2 years or so. When I'm there, I have no thoughts of Canada whatsoever. When I'm in Canada, however, I yearn for Portugal almost constantly. It is a feeling that we call saudade - a feeling that is deeper and more profound than homesickness. I just spent the summer there and uploaded a bunch of photos to my flickr stream. There's a link on my signature below.

Nearby Coimbra, there are the Roman ruins of Conimbriga to the south and the fabulous Bucaco Palace to the north. The Bucaco Palace is in the middle of perhaps the most enchanting forest in Portugal. A stay at the palace is still relatively cheap in comparison to some highend hotels in North America. Excellent wine there too.

Let me know if you decide to go to Coimbra. I can give you more pointers.

If you are a reader, I highly recommend that you pick up "Journey to Portugal" by the late Jose Saramago. It is written as a traveller's journal in a tour of 1970's Portugal. That Portugal doesn't exist anymore but the romance is still there. The book really captures the real ambience of Portugal and its culture.

Wine and food is relatively inexpensive and is excellent. Be sure to take advantage of that!
 
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We have no family connection to Portugal but my wife and I have been there eight times. Our favorite place is Olhao (~ over the a) in the Algarve region (south coast). We usually stay up the road at the Pousada at Sao Bras de alportel.

Having said that, you really can't miss with Portugal. No matter which way you go from Lisbon, you will find things which interest you and you are likely to discover places which were not in the guide books. When I plan my travel I try to pick hotels which are no more than two or three hours drive apart, knowing that it will take us all day to get from one to the next.

Most importantly, the people are warm and friendly and the food is great.

If you have not yet selected a place to stay in Lisbon, I would suggest Albergaria de Senhora do Monte. It is a modest hotel at the edge of the Alfama, but it has a fabulous view of the city, the Castelo do Sao Jorge, and the river.
 
I was born and raised in Lisbon. Bairro Alto to be exact. I haven't been back in at least 20 years. I should be ashamed of myself.

Jan, I wish you and your wife a wonderful time. Can't wait to see the pictures you take.

Regards,

John
(Joao in Portuguese)
 
If you are inclines to take a day trip east, you could hit the city of Evora then to the almost stuck in time medieval town of Monsaraz. Surrounded by a castle still and sitting on top of a hill overlooking the countryside. A fascinting place for sure! It's almost like it was shellacked several hundred years ago.

I would add Evoramonte, Estremoz and the whole Alentejo Central.

Cheers
 
It's a wonderful country. One of my favourite places, at the arse-end of nowhere, is Mertola, a wonderful mediaeval city with a castle crowning the hill.

But DON'T go during the winter, especially in the south. Because it's a warm country, many of the less expensive Portuguese hotels regard winter as something brief to be endured rather than overcome via the medium of effective heating. This is not a uniquely Portuguese failing: Malta is pretty bad in this respect too.

Three pics attached: Mertola, looking down towards the river; Silves (I think); and the funniest school warning sign I have ever seen, which really does look like a little girl scampering across the road, far more effective than the usual formalized rubbish which doesn't even register because it's so familiar.

Cheers,

R.
 

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Thanks for all of the replies!

Nando - I checked out your Portugal shots - really nice, as are the shots that Roger posted - they're both whetting my appetite.

I'm going to look into a lot of the places that have been suggested. Oporto has been a strong consideration - I'm glad to hear that the town is old and "decadent" ( while I enjoy good wine, I'm not a fan of port, but my wife loves it ). My only concern was getting up there, but it really isn't too far from Lisbon.

We were toying with traveling in the late winter, but are pretty well set on the Spring, most likely April or May. It may seem a bit early to plan, but we'd like to have the majority of our places booked fairly early.

Thanks for the hotel suggestion pschauss, but our plan is to stay in apartments ( so the places we stay will most likely be limited to three or four different cities/towns ).

As far as Galicia goes, we both originally thought that we'd try to sneak in a bit of Spain, but have decided to keep this an all-Portugal trip.

After reading through the thread again, I'm even more excited about going!
 
As an update...

My wife and I are traveling to Portugal on the Tuesday after Easter. We'll be there for two weeks. We've decided on the first five days in Lisboa, and 4 days in Porto, with ( most likely ) Coimbra in between.

While in Lisboa we plan to make day trips to Evora and Sintra. While in Oporto, we plan on a day in the Duoro wine region, but the rest is up in the air.

Any suggestions for areas/places in or near Oporto and Coimbra would be welcomed. We both like the decadent old cities, but also good hiking/biking in the countryside.

Thanks,
Jan
 
Hi Jan,

I live in Porto, so you can check out my flickr photostream to give you an idea, specially this set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pedrocardigo/sets/72157624758669978/

While you are in Porto you can check Gaia, which is across the river douro in the other bank. A trip the douro wine region is an excelent choise, and if I may add, spending a night in Pinhão at the Vintage House Hotel (http://www.cshotelsandresorts.com/c...ntage-house-hotel/cs-vintage-house-hotel.aspx) it's also a great idea.

While you are at Porto, you might want to check Guimarães, where the nation was born in 1143, it's like 45min. by car.

Feel free to send me a PM if you have any questions.

All the best.

Pedro Cardigo
------------------------------------
www.pedrocardigo.com
 
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Thanks, Pedro ( and great photos! ). My wife and I are both really looking forward to seeing Portugal!
 
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