Post your foveon DP & SD1m Images

med_U47690I1368199849.SEQ.0.jpg
 
I do not terribly understand its line up, I'd prefer a 35 or 50mm fixed lens, so I guess DP1 or 2 I will pick. but for the price range, Oly EP5 seems like an equally good bet.
 
mervynyan said:
I do not terribly understand its line up, I'd prefer a 35 or 50mm fixed lens, so I guess DP1 or 2 I will pick. but for the price range, Oly EP5 seems like an equally good bet.
Click to expand...

It is all about the foveon sensor and how well sigma matched the lens to it. If your photography style matches this camera, then u will not find a better camera.

The first time u see a raw image on the screen u will understand. Someone once coined a term "medium format in your pocket" for the old mf folders like the voightlander perkeo. To me the sigma dp Merrill cameras are the digital equivelent... Some people have thought of it like large format in the sense the camera can force u to slow down and u to do more analysis.

At iso 100-200 range, I have not seen such good overall iq from any apsc camera.. There have been web posting on blogs that show in my mind that it pushes a Nikon ff d800e in terms of overall iq.

It is difinitely not a camera for everyone. It does not have fast af, not good high iso (400 in color and 1600 in b&w), and LCD only mode.. But it an be a great addition to your tools..

Gary
 
noimmunity said:

The Rhône towards Le Pont Wilson by areality4all, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Great photo!
I have tried HDR with my DP2m with a landscape shot but the detail is so good with the foveon sensor that the HDR image comes out blurry. That is, the software cannot align the three images I used because the slightest movement of the air 100 meters away can prevent alignment.
Any tips from anyone on how to do HDR with images from a foveon sensor?
 
Eric T said:
Any tips from anyone on how to do HDR with images from a foveon sensor?
Click to expand...

At the risk of sound condescending (which I do not mean to be at all), let me ask if you are using a tripod? It is really essential.

I used a Velbon V-pod for these. Inexpensive, light, easily fits inside my camera bag.
 
helenhill said:
as we all can see.. the Foveon sensor & Colour is Superb
but the B&W is smashingly Good...love it in fact 🙂
Click to expand...

It's actually amazing how good the Foveon sensor is at both, Helen. If only this sensor came with a Fuji-style user interface/body or a Leica-style RF/VF, imagine how much fun that would be!


Here's another sunset pic, not HDR, not stitched. Sorry for the slight posterization due to size reduction.


Sunset on an overcast day by areality4all, on Flickr
 
This image is one of the reasons I really like the foveon sensor and the way it works with the remarkable Sigma lens. Virtually straight out of the camera (raw) converted to black and white tif then jpeg. Quite high exposure and the lens was wide open .. I think my Nikon D700 would have murdered this situation by anaesthetising it.

med_U5265I1368442855.SEQ.1.jpg
 
noimmunity said:
At the risk of sound condescending (which I do not mean to be at all), let me ask if you are using a tripod? It is really essential.

I used a Velbon V-pod for these. Inexpensive, light, easily fits inside my camera bag.
Click to expand...

Yes, I as using a tripod. I realize that is essential for HDR.
I think the problem is the high level of detail in vegetation and a slight breeze. If you are taking photos of stationary buildings, there is no problem. But if the scene is mainly one of trees and shrubs, the foveon sensor captures an enormous amount of detail. A breeze then prevents alignment of the photos.
 
How much time between shots? Would using multi shot and setting exposure bracketing be feasible? I have used this technique before for very distance shots even hand held but never anything where I have a lot of foliage in the foreground.

Gary
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom