Post your ISO 2500 Photos

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so i've finally gotten around to exporting my presets i use for my high iso shots to my website so any of ya'all who use lightroom feel free to see if they work for you if you want.

http://www.tmfabian.com/presets/

happy shooting folks.

edit: PS these presets only work with raw files...sending a jpeg through these will give you a file that looks like an alligator chewed it up and spit it back out.

Thomas, I just tried your link and it looks like it's not there anymore. Are the presets still available somewhere? Thanks.

Rod
 
Thomas, I just tried your link and it looks like it's not there anymore. Are the presets still available somewhere? Thanks.

Rod

oops, yeah, that website died because the hosting company went broke. My suggestion now-a-days is to just use lightroom 3 and process to your liking, lightroom 3 is absolutely superb at noise reduction.
 
I use Lightroom as well. Contrary to some shots here though, I love to have some grain in my shots and I even add some also in high ISO photos.

Lightroom 3 though really improved chances of saving some ISO2500 shots, that otherwise would have been dead due to banding and alike.
I shoot mostly during the night, so this comes very appreciated:

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"motor cycle taxi"

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"man loves dog loves man"

One thing every visitor of this thread should be aware of: by no means, can the actual grain/ noise/ defect of a 10MP camera image be judged by web sized 800px compressed JPGs.

As downsized, as they are, noise/ grain largely has been minimized.
Prints are the real challenge for these.
 
I have found the 2500 iso photos all but un-usable, full of nasty lines across all the photos and way too much noise, don't know if there's anything to upgrade on the camera or what photoshop to use, but the results are terrible, nothing like the photos I see here :(

Tom
 
I have found the 2500 iso photos all but un-usable, full of nasty lines across all the photos and way too much noise, don't know if there's anything to upgrade on the camera or what photoshop to use, but the results are terrible, nothing like the photos I see here :(

Tom

Tom, I made exactly the same experience, when I first started to shoot a M8.2.
I used Nikon DSLR and a R-D1 before, which behaved quite different from the Leica sensor.

A few points to consider:

1) It is eminent, to not underexpose with the M8/9 at high ISO - underexpose and it will give you nasty banding. (I try, to always overexpose by 1/2 stop and it's fine in PP)

2) Which software are you using for processing your RAW files?
Some behaves better than other. I also find Leica high ISO JPGs, to be very well handled regarding the nasty banding.

3) "Hide" your shadows (underexposed areas) in your processing.
Many (especially BW) images are developed very contrasty or/and with more wanted black clip off, which effectively hides nasty banding/ raw noise.

4) All images, displayed here show likely the best possible look regarding noise/ banding, as they are likely carefully selected and most importantly - they are all downsized web JPGs, which naturally look much, much cleaner, than printed on A4 or A3 !!! Blow them up and most will show some ugliness in the shadows ;-)
 
3) "Hide" your shadows (underexposed areas) in your processing.
Many (especially BW) images are developed very contrasty or/and with more wanted black clip off, which effectively hides nasty banding/ raw noise.

4) All images, displayed here show likely the best possible look regarding noise/ banding, as they are likely carefully selected and most importantly - they are all downsized web JPGs, which naturally look much, much cleaner, than printed on A4 or A3 !!! Blow them up and most will show some ugliness in the shadows ;-)

As to number 3...yes, that certainly helps, and i do employ a lightroom default so that whenever my leica files are shot with iso 2500 a certain amount of black clipping is automatically applied.

4 is partially correct in the same way that i wouldn't show an image that had been ridiculously under exposed at iso 100 either. However i've printed shots from the m8 shot at 2500 iso on 20x24 paper leaving about a 1 inch border on the long side and the noise is not detrimental. Of course it exists slightly more obviously than it does in these downsized images much the same as any focus errors are eliminated by downsizing as well.

the key to the m8 is learning how to process the files to your liking, which for better or worse takes more effort on the photographers part than with other DSLRS.
 
Have you contacted Leica tech support?

Have you contacted Leica tech support?

Perhaps with your s/n it would qualify for a sensor upgrade or something??

Here's one at ISO 2500 from my M8 original:

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I have found the 2500 iso photos all but un-usable, full of nasty lines across all the photos and way too much noise, don't know if there's anything to upgrade on the camera or what photoshop to use, but the results are terrible, nothing like the photos I see here :(

Tom
 
I have found the 2500 iso photos all but un-usable, full of nasty lines across all the photos and way too much noise, don't know if there's anything to upgrade on the camera or what photoshop to use, but the results are terrible, nothing like the photos I see here :(

Tom

post us some samples...perhaps we can collectively figure out what is or is not happening with your images. Could be a sensor issue or could just be frustration with post processing.
 
Just wanted to toss one in the ring.

Just wanted to toss one in the ring.

I try not to get to 2500 ISO very often, but I'm often pleasantly surprised by how well it works. I seem to get banding popping up when I push it this far, not all the time though. It seems to be hit and miss and occasionally the frame before or after is just fine. Anyway, here's a shot at 2500 and postprocessed is ps.
 

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I finaly got a chance to shoot some pix again at 2500 iso and they are horrible!

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These are simply useless......and I wonder if Leica can correct this problem???

My camera is a very early one #3101xxx ~ any words of advice???

Tom
 
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I finaly got a chance to shoot some pix again at 2500 iso and they are horrible!!
These are simply useless......and I wonder if Leica can correct this problem???

My camera is a very early one #3101xxx ~ any words of advice???

Tom

What a useless piece of crap!!
Wrap it up carefully in a box and give it me so that you will never have look at the horrible photos again!!
 
Tom

Tom

I'm not sure of the specifics, but I've seen some folks with 3101xxx need some kind of upgrades. I'd email leica customer service with your s/n and image issues and ask them if there are any upgrades for the IQ @ 2500 issues for your particular M8.

...

These are simply useless......and I wonder if Leica can correct this problem???

My camera is a very early one #3101xxx ~ any words of advice???

Tom[/QUOTE]
 
What a useless piece of crap!!
Wrap it up carefully in a box and give it me so that you will never have look at the horrible photos again!!

That's fine......go ahead and pack up that 45' IIIC K Grey with the coated Summitar and you have a DEAL! :)

Tom
 
The difference between Tom's vs. Ted's and Mitch's shots lie in the fact that Ted/Mitch both have fairly even illumination across the frame. I typically need ISO2500 when the light is very uneven, often high contrast (as in a bar). Under such situations I invariably get banding that is just unacceptable to me.

If I shoot in situation like Ted's cat photo, banding can be avoided, but that's rare for me.

I don't mind digital grain, but I can't stand banding. The M8 is very disappointing in this respect, so I usually try to stay at ISO640 or lower.
 
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