Press camera tutorials

[venchka]

That is NOT my Linhof pictured above. Mine looks I found it dumpster diving. It does what a camera should do: hold the film in the right place and holds the lens steady. What more do you need?

ederek,

Thank you.

What Steve said. I was extremely lucky to acquire the Speed Graphic, Technika V, 2 lenses and a few holders for $100.

 

[Gumby]

True, but as the OP was specifically asking about movements, this is of limited relevance in the present thread.

My opinion is of limited relevance. Gee, thanks Rog.

 

[Bobonli]

Let me clarify and focus, I hope. My reference to movements was this: I think I had too many movements to fiddle with when I first tried LF on a Wisner field camera. Looking back, I was also more of a spray and pray shooter with my SLR at the time than I am now. So maybe the movements will make more sense. I thought the Graphic type cameras would 1) be a less expensive re-entry point and 2) have fewer things to fuss with.

I understand the difference between press cameras and field cameras, thanks to the links provided earlier in this thread and I think--philosophically-I agree with Roger that I'd rather have more flexibility than less in terms of movements.

My intended application is for portraits and "reportage" (for lack of a better term). I work in healthcare in a controlled teaching environment where there's a lot of cool things happening and I have the opportunity daily to shoot. I'd like to bring a more artistic interpretation to the very tech-heavy field I work in and I thought a completely new format--and the new way of seeing it often provokes-might be worth considering. My 35mm film RF shots look completely different than my DSLR shots as a result of the film and the character of the lenses. I thought I'd try to supersize it!

 

[ederek]

Bobonli - a press camera might be a good low cost way to get started again and still get the different look and interaction in your environment. Sounds fun, btw!

Will anyone else be operating the camera, or only you?

Apart from the 4x5 field, I also picked up a Pacemaker 23 Crown Graphic (circa 1947 to 1955) with 3 lenses and 2 roll backs via Craigslist. It's only 2x3 and while I've read the roll backs have flatness issues, I get the benefit of cheaper film and ability to use processing tanks I already own, as well as negative carriers that came with the scanner.

Thought this would be a good learner, and then I can use the Toyo 45Aii as I progress. Also, if someone wants to shoot with me, they could try this setup.

And hey, if you want to fix perspective and vertical lines, there's always photoshop for that!

 

[venchka]

Since I couldn't get the camera exactly where I wanted it due to the thick vegetation, I used a little rise and maybe some lateral shift. Then I cropped the heck out of negative in 5x7 aspect ratio. I'll check the cropping.

ps: I'm still not comfortable with tilt and I never touch the back. Maybe that's why I like the Linhof. The lens & film plane are locked parallel and leave well enough alone. When the weather cools down some more and I can stand to be under the dark cloth, I'll get daring with more movements..

CORRECTION: The crop is whole plate, 6 1/2" x 8 1/2". Another favorite of mine.

UPDATE: I have no idea how much movement is needed for the "miniature effect." I set up the Linhof last night with the 125mm Fujinon-W (image circle = 200mm) and could not achieve full swing without the front standard running into the bed struts. A longer lens would be needed to clear the camera body for full swing. Swinging the back I soon ran out of image circle. A longer lens would cure that as well. Tricky business for sure. I will try with the 250mm lens. It has a circle of 300mm and just nips the corners of 8x10.

The OP mentioned using a dSLR and Tilt-Shift lens. I was amazed to learn from my friends who own such lenses that they are EITHER tilt OR shift. Not both at the same time. Large format still offers more movements all the time.

 

[venchka]

Toyo and Horseman built very sturdy, very nice press cameras also.
As for too many movements and too much travel: You don't have to use them. It's nice to have them when you get better acquainted with the whole process.
Hint: X-ray film works in camera film holders and can be used for pictorial photographs. Very unique look. It's also dirt cheap.

 

[Bobonli]

CORRECTION: The crop is whole plate, 6 1/2" x 8 1/2". Another favorite of mine.

UPDATE: I have no idea how much movement is needed for the "miniature effect." I set up the Linhof last night with the 125mm Fujinon-W (image circle = 200mm) and could not achieve full swing without the front standard running into the bed struts. A longer lens would be needed to clear the camera body for full swing. Swinging the back I soon ran out of image circle. A longer lens would cure that as well. Tricky business for sure. I will try with the 250mm lens. It has a circle of 300mm and just nips the corners of 8x10.

The OP mentioned using a dSLR and Tilt-Shift lens. I was amazed to learn from my friends who own such lenses that they are EITHER tilt OR shift. Not both at the same time. Large format still offers more movements all the time.

Thanks. Were you able to make it work with a longer lens?

I've found a couple of ads for Speed Graphics with lenses at reasonable prices (compared to a T/S DSLR lens!) and would be willing to give it a try, but would like to know how much movement is needed to get the "miniature effect" I mentioned in my first post.

So, if I decide to give this a try, what else will I need besides camera, lens, film holder, film, meter and something to focus with?

And lastly,has anyone used the Cambo reflex back? Is it precise enough to replace focusing on the ground glass with a loupe?

Thanks for the link to largeformatphotography forum. I'll see if there's someone local I can link up with.

Bob

 

[venchka]

Speaking for my Technika V only........a lens in the 150mm to 250mm range should provide full front movements. Adding rear movements uses up the image circle in a hurry with the shorter (150mm) lenses.

T-shirt, jacket, darkcloth. I trust my eyes to get close enough on focus. Confirm with loupe sometimes. Lightproof space for handling film. Developing hardware. Scanner and computer and inkjet printer or enlarger and darkroom. The camera and lens are only the tip of the iceberg.