naql
Established
I recently got a prewar FED NKVD with its original lens from FEDKA and I noticed the lens has the old style aperture numbers on it (3.5, 4.5, 6.3, 9, 12.5, and 18.) Does anyone know how these match up to the modern f numbers? Idid a google search and it pulled up a chart from 1899 and that wouldn't seem to fit with the newer system.
Thanks!
Thanks!
ferider
Veteran
See the attached table.
Meaning f3.5 is about half stop (56%) slower than f2.8, f4.5 about a quarter (27%) slower than f4, etc.
Hope this helps,
Roland.
Meaning f3.5 is about half stop (56%) slower than f2.8, f4.5 about a quarter (27%) slower than f4, etc.
Hope this helps,
Roland.
Last edited:
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
It's not really different from the modern system at all. It's just that a different set of points on the same scale is marked. You still get twice / half the amount of light from one stop to the next. (Factor of sqrt 2 = 1.41 between numbers.)
Simply meter for the stops you have, or if you prefer, eyeball your 4 - 5.6 - 8 - 11 - 16. (I assume there are no click stops on this lens.)
Simply meter for the stops you have, or if you prefer, eyeball your 4 - 5.6 - 8 - 11 - 16. (I assume there are no click stops on this lens.)
naql
Established
Thanks guys that all makes sense. I didn't know that they had marked off different f stops on the scale than they do now.
I can't wait to see what I get out of this lens. I've never had the opportunity to try out an uncoated lens before.
I can't wait to see what I get out of this lens. I've never had the opportunity to try out an uncoated lens before.
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
Gee, I just looked at Fedka's write-up of this type -- a sobering story BTW -- and aren't you going to have "fun" with that speed series. 20 - 30 - 40 - 60 - 100 - 200 - 500? If there's any logic to that, it's lost on me.
I guess I'd forget about the 1/40 and hope that, in the real world, the others are near enough half from one to the next.
I guess I'd forget about the 1/40 and hope that, in the real world, the others are near enough half from one to the next.
Stephen S. Mack
Member
They DO take a little getting used to, but the cameras and lenses kind of grow on you, don't ya know?
With best regards.
Stephen
With best regards.
Stephen
naql
Established
They DO take a little getting used to, but the cameras and lenses kind of grow on you, don't ya know?
With best regards.
Stephen
Yeah it is a lot different from what I'm used to. It took me almost an hour to load my first roll of film. I guess I should've looked up the instructions first.
I was kind of disappointed to read that the lens is pretty much married to the camera because of the 28.5mm back focus instead of the 28.8 on post war FSU cameras and lenses.
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
I was kind of disappointed to read that the lens is pretty much married to the camera because of the 28.5mm back focus instead of the 28.8 on post war FSU cameras and lenses.
That's what you get for buying prewar. You can either hunt down the corresponding prewar lenses now, or get a FED-S or a postwar Zorki 1d or something - it basically handles the same, except that it uses the standard lens thread.
Roger Hicks
Veteran
1/3 stop different in most cases.
f/2 - f/2.2, f/2.8 - f/3.2, f/4 - f/4.5, f/5.6 - f/6.3, f/8 - f/9, f/11 - f/12.5, f/16 - f/18
f/3.5 is out of sequence, 1/3 stop faster than f/4, 2/3 stop slower than f/2.8, just to give a 'fast' maximum aperture (it was in the 1930s).
Speeds are easy enough too, again in 1/3 stop steps:
1/4 (1/5, 1/6) 1/8 (1/10, 1/12) 1/15 (1/20, 1/25) 1/30 (1/40, 1/50) 1/60 (1/80, 1/100) 1/125 (1/160, 1/200) 1/250. Obviously there's a certain amount of rounding.
Additional slow speeds were offered mostly because they could, but also because at long hand-held speeds with slow films, even 1/3 stop is often worth having, let alone 2/3 stop.
Cheers,
R.
f/2 - f/2.2, f/2.8 - f/3.2, f/4 - f/4.5, f/5.6 - f/6.3, f/8 - f/9, f/11 - f/12.5, f/16 - f/18
f/3.5 is out of sequence, 1/3 stop faster than f/4, 2/3 stop slower than f/2.8, just to give a 'fast' maximum aperture (it was in the 1930s).
Speeds are easy enough too, again in 1/3 stop steps:
1/4 (1/5, 1/6) 1/8 (1/10, 1/12) 1/15 (1/20, 1/25) 1/30 (1/40, 1/50) 1/60 (1/80, 1/100) 1/125 (1/160, 1/200) 1/250. Obviously there's a certain amount of rounding.
Additional slow speeds were offered mostly because they could, but also because at long hand-held speeds with slow films, even 1/3 stop is often worth having, let alone 2/3 stop.
Cheers,
R.
Dwig
Well-known
...
f/3.5 is out of sequence, 1/3 stop faster than f/4, 2/3 stop slower than f/2.8, just to give a 'fast' maximum aperture (it was in the 1930s). ...
Just as lenses are marked today. The maximum aperture is frequently "out of sequence" with the conventionally marked apertures (e.g. f/1.8 which is 1/3 stop faster than the "conventionally marked" f/2.0).
There was an older aperture numbering system sometimes seen on old Kodak cameras and a few other American models. This was called the "uniform system" and doubling the number resulted in half the exposure. It wasn't very popular.
Proteus617
Established
... and aren't you going to have "fun" with that speed series. 20 - 30 - 40 - 60 - 100 - 200 - 500? If there's any logic to that, it's lost on me.
I guess I'd forget about the 1/40 and hope that, in the real world, the others are near enough half from one to the next...
I've taken apart and serviced several types of old shutters, both leaf and focal plane. Pretty amazing stuff. Once you see how they work, you realize that (on the best of days) the performance varies from wishful thinking to ingenious rough approximations. Letting film latitude cover the difference between one stop this way or that helps me enjoy the clicking and whirring sounds when I push the little button.
fanshaw
Well-known
I've taken apart and serviced several types of old shutters, both leaf and focal plane. Pretty amazing stuff. Once you see how they work, you realize that (on the best of days) the performance varies from wishful thinking to ingenious rough approximations. Letting film latitude cover the difference between one stop this way or that helps me enjoy the clicking and whirring sounds when I push the little button.
You are quite right. We are not dealing with precision technology. That's why you don't need to worry about the difference between GOST and ASA or fret about finding a distant target to calibrate a rangefinder ( a couple of hundred yards is fine).
BillBingham2
Registered User
1/3 stop different in most cases.
f/2 - f/2.2, f/2.8 - f/3.2, f/4 - f/4.5, f/5.6 - f/6.3, f/8 - f/9, f/11 - f/12.5, f/16 - f/18
f/3.5 is out of sequence, 1/3 stop faster than f/4, 2/3 stop slower than f/2.8, just to give a 'fast' maximum aperture (it was in the 1930s).
Speeds are easy enough too, again in 1/3 stop steps:
1/4 (1/5, 1/6) 1/8 (1/10, 1/12) 1/15 (1/20, 1/25) 1/30 (1/40, 1/50) 1/60 (1/80, 1/100) 1/125 (1/160, 1/200) 1/250. Obviously there's a certain amount of rounding.
Additional slow speeds were offered mostly because they could, but also because at long hand-held speeds with slow films, even 1/3 stop is often worth having, let alone 2/3 stop.
Cheers,
R.
Roger,
Stops are a logarithmic progression if I remember right, no?
B2 (;->
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Roger,
Stops are a logarithmic progression if I remember right, no?
B2 (;->
Dear Bill,
No. Square root of 2 (1.414 recurring) because stop diameter is linear and the area of the hole that the light gets through varies as the square of the linear dimension. Thus f/2 - f/4 - f/8 - f/16 each cut the light to 1/4 of its previous quantity, necessitating f/2.8 - f/5.6 - f/11 as intermediate values to halve them between the 2-4-8-16.
Cheers,
R.
David Hughes
David Hughes
It's hard to follow Roger but here goes:
You're not the first to wonder about them. Try this from 1937...
http://idrh.smugmug.com/Photography/Leica-Lenses/Leica-Stops/499924346_2aZAV-L.jpg
Regards, David
You're not the first to wonder about them. Try this from 1937...
http://idrh.smugmug.com/Photography/Leica-Lenses/Leica-Stops/499924346_2aZAV-L.jpg
Regards, David
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