Price of an M3

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wyk_penguin

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I saw this single stroke Leica M3 (serial no. 9XX XXX, has DOF marks in the rangefinder patch) with a dual range summicron(glasses were missing though 😱 ) for USD750. The vulcanite of the thing is chipped (flaking all over the place and the guys just taped it.....). Otherwise it is all OK. I don't mind stripping the vulcanite abd getting some leather for it, coz I think it is going to stay with me for quite some time, and having chipped vulcanite isn't going to be much help for the resale value anyway.

So I am asking, should I support the local ecconomy or should I result to *bay? I have seen such combinations for way more than USD 1000 and some on *bay as low as USD 400. So what is the reasonable/normal price to pay for these things?
 
$750 for an M3 with a Summicron? that's a great price if the camera is working properly.. the chipped vulcanite is no big deal.. you can replace it and make the camera look brand new for $15 and a couple hours of your time

the big question is whether the shutter speeds are accurate.. if so, and the Summicron glass is clear, I'd definitely go for it.. you probably won't find a better deal on eb*y, and you're never guaranteed it will be exactly as described.. a bird in the hand, as they say
 
If you had the camera in your hands and could check if the curtains are in good shape, if the VF isn't too cloudy, if the lens isn't hazy or has fungus... Go for it! You'd be getting a body w/lens for the regular price of an M3 body alone! 🙂
 
That's what I was thinking.
The dealer is a reputable shop. They don't give big discounts without reason. I played with the thing for half an hour. The viewfinder is good and so are the brightlines. No decementing whatsoever. However the chrome on the cover of the self timer and brightline selector is rusty!! I haven't seen such a problem on other Ms. I think the curtains are OK. Couldn't check the speed too accurately, but there's no capping. Also could really check for pinholes because it wan't a sunny day and I didn't get the right tools(aka flashlight). Actually, I just stumbled across the shop, saw it, and my eyes popped out.

I wonder if there is anything that I am missing/should check for. The rust rewind lever is particularly suspicious.... I am not a bit worried about the vulcanite as I would definitely change it with something nice from cameraleather.com. Another thing I am suspicious about is that they're selling the DR summicron without the glasses..... which I just think is strange. Wonder what they are going to sell those for?? (USD400 maybe??) The glasses can be swapped between lens, right?

As you say, I can't even get a body for the price!! This is so GAS inducing..... but I just want to know if something is being hidden. Can anyone help me point out some of the more subtle faults. Now I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that no one gets it before I do.....
 
Not having the goggles for the DR is not really that big of a deal. In real life circumstances it is quite awkward to stop, shift focus zones, install the goggles, recompose and focus.......

The DR is a great lens without the goggles. If it is clean and clear then your kit passes the first test. Figure that the DR without goggles still sells for at least $300 if it is clean.

So if that is the case then the body is now priced at $450 to $500, not bad at all. The rust would worry me too. Ask the dealer if they have taken the cover off an inquire what they found if they have. If the cost of the body is $500 or less plan on having it CLA'd immediately. Send an email to DAG or whomever you may use for the CLA and ask their opinion if there may be potential unrepairable problems based on what you know of the camera. I suspect that if you tell them the camera is fully functional based on your inspection, then if there is something wrong it can be fixed.

Good luck, I am thinking that this is a good opportunity.
 
I would be shooting the first test roll with it right now.

The "Goggles" alone for for ~150. The only downside of the DR is that it can't be used on the newer Cosina cameras. The internal mechanism gets hung-up internally. It will work on all Leica's.
 
I think the safest way by far is to ask for some sort of warranty - or being able to return it within say, a month. Perhaps even if that would cost $50 more. Shoot some rolls through it, the best way to find out in what condition it is!
 
Buy with a right-to-return for non-functionality...run a couple of test rolls (including a roll of slide film) and see what ya get. If it works, do the covering swap at least. If you're ambitious, repaint it like I did my M3 🙂
 
OK, OK, OK!!! Cut it out!

Got the cash, went back, looked, ... gone... It was GONE!!!

I think I am depressed. Just have to wait for another one.
 
wyk_penguin said:
OK, OK, OK!!! Cut it out!

Got the cash, went back, looked, ... gone... It was GONE!!!

I think I am depressed. Just have to wait for another one.
Click to expand...

Dang.

I bought an M2 Thursday from the local shop...the frame lines are a bit sticky and it's missing chunks of vulcanite, but no dings, a clear finder and good sounding speeds. $625...plan is to get it CLA'd then paint it black 🙂
 
Something about "the early bird catching the worm" or "he who hesitates is lost"?

Sorry you missed it, better luck next time. I know how it feels.

wyk_penguin said:
OK, OK, OK!!! Cut it out!

Got the cash, went back, looked, ... gone... It was GONE!!!

I think I am depressed. Just have to wait for another one.
Click to expand...
 
Things often happen for a reason that may not be clear to us at the moment. When one door closes, another opens. This idea helps me at times like this.
 
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