CuS
Established
Hello,
Well, my film souping has led to my purchasing (for $80) an Omega Chromega B.
Well, now I need suggestions for paper developer, stop and fixer.
I primarily use Ilford MGV as well as Agfa MCP312 RC (semi-matt) in a roller-transport machine at school.
Can anyone suggests a suitable Developer, stop and fixer for these papers?
I will eventually move to FB papers but I want to run the RC gauntlet first.
Thanks!
Well, my film souping has led to my purchasing (for $80) an Omega Chromega B.
Well, now I need suggestions for paper developer, stop and fixer.
I primarily use Ilford MGV as well as Agfa MCP312 RC (semi-matt) in a roller-transport machine at school.
Can anyone suggests a suitable Developer, stop and fixer for these papers?
I will eventually move to FB papers but I want to run the RC gauntlet first.
Thanks!
Bryce
Well-known
I've used Ilford products from the start just because they were readily available when I started, and changed a few things as I became aware of products I liked better.
So I use Hypam fixer, Ilford stop bath still. Their MG print developer gave a strongly greenish cast to my prints, and so after using Dektol at school and liking the results (and cost!) better I switched.
I print mostly on fiber, so selenium toner is basically a must. When I started (≈5 years ago) Kodak sold the only really common selenium toner so that is what I still use.
Unless you are going to use an acid free process, there is no reason any brand of these products wouldn't work together. So if you are concerned about reproducing your results I'd stick with a product line that seems likely to be around awhile, otherwise let your wallet and local availability be your guide! Stop and fix will have no impact on the appearance of the finished product, by the way.
So I use Hypam fixer, Ilford stop bath still. Their MG print developer gave a strongly greenish cast to my prints, and so after using Dektol at school and liking the results (and cost!) better I switched.
I print mostly on fiber, so selenium toner is basically a must. When I started (≈5 years ago) Kodak sold the only really common selenium toner so that is what I still use.
Unless you are going to use an acid free process, there is no reason any brand of these products wouldn't work together. So if you are concerned about reproducing your results I'd stick with a product line that seems likely to be around awhile, otherwise let your wallet and local availability be your guide! Stop and fix will have no impact on the appearance of the finished product, by the way.
sepiareverb
genius and moron
Sprint Systems chemistry is easy and long lived. Dilution is 1:9 for everything, 1:4 for fixer if you want a faster fixing time. The print developer gives a neutral tone, I use it for my 810 proof prints on ILMGIV all the time. Freestyle has these under one of their brand names (the one that is diluted 1:9) and Freestyle can ship all kinds of stuff as they seem to have some arrangement with UPS.
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