40oz
...
get the filters. You are just going to waste time and paper until you do. Trust me 
VC paper is apparently not supposed to be used without a filter. VC paper with a #2 filter is analogous to #2 graded paper. VC paper without filters is not the same as grade 2 paper.
VC paper is apparently not supposed to be used without a filter. VC paper with a #2 filter is analogous to #2 graded paper. VC paper without filters is not the same as grade 2 paper.
Jeremy Z
Well-known
OK 40oz. Since you are so vociferous about it, I will get the filters. Please don't be offended if I try to solve the problem by other means first, THEN try the filters.
When I printed last time with VC paper, I never used filters, and the results were great. I'm sure you're right in that the results can be better with filters, but if it is a light leak issue, the filters aren't going to help at all. First things first!
When I printed last time with VC paper, I never used filters, and the results were great. I'm sure you're right in that the results can be better with filters, but if it is a light leak issue, the filters aren't going to help at all. First things first!
Vics
Veteran
D76 is a developer for FILM, not paper. Try Dektol. You must use a filter if printing on multiGrade paper. No filter would produce very flat prints.
Vics
Veteran
I would think better to buy a set of Ilford's Multigrade Filters (know whar size you need.) This way you can get the kind of control you need with black & white printing. Have fun!
Vics
Veteran
I use the Ilford filters, which are thin acetate, and i like them very much. I had to trim them down to size for my 23CII.
Jeremy Z
Well-known
Epilogue
Epilogue
Thanks to you guys, I'm having some success now.
I spent 14 hours in the darkroom today. I changed the safelight, and did a better job sealing up the door. That made a huge difference.
I also bought the multicontrast filters, and printed most of them at #2. (good tip)
Most of the day, I fought the battle with "dust". (lost most times) The negative was clean, the print was clean, yet I had dust in different places on each print.
Miraculously, when I switched to 5x7 from 8x10, I had no dust on the print.
I finally figured out that I had been scratching the emulsion on the print with my plastic tongs when I pushed the print down in the developer. :bang:
For the last couple hours, things went much more smoothly.
Thanks for the tips guys.
Epilogue
Thanks to you guys, I'm having some success now.
I spent 14 hours in the darkroom today. I changed the safelight, and did a better job sealing up the door. That made a huge difference.
I also bought the multicontrast filters, and printed most of them at #2. (good tip)
Most of the day, I fought the battle with "dust". (lost most times) The negative was clean, the print was clean, yet I had dust in different places on each print.
Miraculously, when I switched to 5x7 from 8x10, I had no dust on the print.
I finally figured out that I had been scratching the emulsion on the print with my plastic tongs when I pushed the print down in the developer. :bang:
For the last couple hours, things went much more smoothly.
Thanks for the tips guys.
wdenies
wdenies
Filters
Filters
YES, YOU NEED FILTERS.
To prove it and to convince you I made a digital simulation with ConverttoBWPro: acts like Ilford multigrade
More examples available. but it seems I am limited to 3 uploads
Wim
Filters
YES, YOU NEED FILTERS.
To prove it and to convince you I made a digital simulation with ConverttoBWPro: acts like Ilford multigrade
More examples available. but it seems I am limited to 3 uploads
Wim
Attachments
wdenies
wdenies
T
tedwhite
Guest
OK, so which ones simulate which filters? The last one looks like a #4 or #5.
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