Poohblah
Member
Hi guys,
I just received a Super Baldax from Jurgen (cue groan) and I have a couple issues. First, the winding mechanism is being VERY finicky. I put one roll through the camera already and I only got 8 or 9 shots out of 12 because the winding mechanism sometimes wouldn't allow the shutter to trip even though I had wound on to the next frame. This is a known issue AFAIK. Secondly, the shutter sticks occasionally on the faster speeds. It didn't happen on my first roll, luckily, but it did happen when I was testing the camera without film. Finally, it definitely does not look like Jurgen did a CLA as he said he did.
So I guess basically what I'm getting at is: Should I send out for a CLA, and if so, who? Keep in mind that I am a student and I sold some 35mm equipment that I don't use any more to buy this camera, so I have very little cash.
I just received a Super Baldax from Jurgen (cue groan) and I have a couple issues. First, the winding mechanism is being VERY finicky. I put one roll through the camera already and I only got 8 or 9 shots out of 12 because the winding mechanism sometimes wouldn't allow the shutter to trip even though I had wound on to the next frame. This is a known issue AFAIK. Secondly, the shutter sticks occasionally on the faster speeds. It didn't happen on my first roll, luckily, but it did happen when I was testing the camera without film. Finally, it definitely does not look like Jurgen did a CLA as he said he did.
So I guess basically what I'm getting at is: Should I send out for a CLA, and if so, who? Keep in mind that I am a student and I sold some 35mm equipment that I don't use any more to buy this camera, so I have very little cash.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
I have the same camera and the same troubles winding. The mechanism is clever, but finicky. You can tighten down the screw that retains the winding mechanism, that may help a bit with the film advance. I ignore the film counter and use the red window. I get more pics that way.
As far as the double exposure prevention (a pox on all such devices). If you find you've wound the film and you are not able to trip the shutter with the button, you can always press on the lever located on the shutter to actually take a picture. I do this once on almost every roll.
One way I find I get in trouble is by advancing the film right after I take a shot. Then I'll run around with the camera in hand and accidentally hit the shutter button. If the shutter is not cocked, you don't take a picture, but you do trip the multiple exposure prevention. So, wind the film and cock the shutter only when you are about to take a picture.
I don't know what to say about the shutter. If you don't think it's worth sending back to Jurgen, then you'll have to pay someone else to clean it.
If you've got one of the 4 element lenses, you've got a good shooting camera. Here's a small set of images from mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevemphoto/sets/72157604000587313/
As far as the double exposure prevention (a pox on all such devices). If you find you've wound the film and you are not able to trip the shutter with the button, you can always press on the lever located on the shutter to actually take a picture. I do this once on almost every roll.
One way I find I get in trouble is by advancing the film right after I take a shot. Then I'll run around with the camera in hand and accidentally hit the shutter button. If the shutter is not cocked, you don't take a picture, but you do trip the multiple exposure prevention. So, wind the film and cock the shutter only when you are about to take a picture.
I don't know what to say about the shutter. If you don't think it's worth sending back to Jurgen, then you'll have to pay someone else to clean it.
If you've got one of the 4 element lenses, you've got a good shooting camera. Here's a small set of images from mine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/stevemphoto/sets/72157604000587313/
dazedgonebye
Veteran
One other thing...I've never really trusted 1/500th on these older cameras, though mine seems not too far off. If you're good at 1/250th, or even 1/125th, I don't think you're shooting opportunities will be very restricted.
One good thing about the Baldax is that 40.5mm filter size. I keep a couple of ND filters handy so I can shoot wide open in the bright AZ sun. An ND filter will keep you shooting, even if your faster speeds are unreliable.
One good thing about the Baldax is that 40.5mm filter size. I keep a couple of ND filters handy so I can shoot wide open in the bright AZ sun. An ND filter will keep you shooting, even if your faster speeds are unreliable.
Poohblah
Member
thanks for the reply.
So here's what I've found out by experimentation with the camera and a little research:
1. As you mentioned, you can trip the shutter with the lever on the lens itself.
2. The winding mechanism is designed for 50's era film which had thicker backing paper. Therefore, the frame spacing is too small. To correct this, I need to tape an 8-inch strip of backing paper to the take-up reel before I load the camera (haven't actually tried this myself yet).
3. Everything seems to work perfectly if I take the following steps, in this exact order: turn the advance knob counter-clockwise until it stops, turn the advance knob clockwise until it stops, cock the shutter, trip the shutter, repeat.
It seems to me that my problems arise mostly from my lack of knowledge about the winding mechanism. I haven't been able to find too many resources regarding the Super Baldax on the internet.
So here's what I've found out by experimentation with the camera and a little research:
1. As you mentioned, you can trip the shutter with the lever on the lens itself.
2. The winding mechanism is designed for 50's era film which had thicker backing paper. Therefore, the frame spacing is too small. To correct this, I need to tape an 8-inch strip of backing paper to the take-up reel before I load the camera (haven't actually tried this myself yet).
3. Everything seems to work perfectly if I take the following steps, in this exact order: turn the advance knob counter-clockwise until it stops, turn the advance knob clockwise until it stops, cock the shutter, trip the shutter, repeat.
It seems to me that my problems arise mostly from my lack of knowledge about the winding mechanism. I haven't been able to find too many resources regarding the Super Baldax on the internet.
dazedgonebye
Veteran
I should have pointed you to that procedure.
Mine is spotty no matter how I use it, so the red window is my friend. I'm not sure about adding paper to the take up reel. Though it sounds as if it might work. Again, with the red window, I would not bother.
Poohblah
Member
Right, but it seems to me that the camera only works properly if and only if I turn the advance knob counter-clockwise until it stops and then clockwise until it stops. Otherwise, the red window would seem to be the best option. I used the red window for my first roll and I got all sorts of issues. So I'll try another roll tomorrow with extra backing paper and see what happens. If worse comes to worst I waste one roll of film.
optikhit
Photo gear player
Usually the double exposure provention is removed in the middle of widing clockwise, after that the frame number changes (not from the red window but from the side number counter). If you saw the frame number changed, then the shutter can be released. So I think there should be a problem in it.
If you don't believe the autoframing and look at the red window, you must turn the winding button clockwisely till its full stop, i.e. you turn firstly anti-clockwise to a full stop and then clockwisely to a full stop. Usually the desired frame number does not appear, you must turn the knob again, anti-clockwise and clockwsie, till the frame number appear in the red window. Remember, in the first turn you must reach a full stop clockwise! That action removes the double exposure provention.
If you want to use the auto frame countering mechanism. You can wind an extra 15cm-20cm (depending on your experience) blank back-paper together with the film. IT WORKS, eventough the last few frames are very near to each other. I have tried this and got a reasonable results of 13 frames in one roll.
If you don't believe the autoframing and look at the red window, you must turn the winding button clockwisely till its full stop, i.e. you turn firstly anti-clockwise to a full stop and then clockwisely to a full stop. Usually the desired frame number does not appear, you must turn the knob again, anti-clockwise and clockwsie, till the frame number appear in the red window. Remember, in the first turn you must reach a full stop clockwise! That action removes the double exposure provention.
If you want to use the auto frame countering mechanism. You can wind an extra 15cm-20cm (depending on your experience) blank back-paper together with the film. IT WORKS, eventough the last few frames are very near to each other. I have tried this and got a reasonable results of 13 frames in one roll.
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malkmata
Well-known
I too recently ordered a Super Baldax from Jurgen. It should arrive in a few days.
I'm Keeping my fingers crossed.
Here is a link to the Baldax/Super Baldax manual.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/balda/baldix_6x6/baldix_6x6.htm
What you described is exactly what the manual instructed. Jurgen also has the same instructions on his Super Baldax page.
KoNickon
Nick Merritt
Thanks for the link to the instructions; I had looked in butkus.com but didn't know the Super Baldax manual and the Baldix manual were one and the same.
I recently got a Super Baldax myself. I am mystified by the instructions there (and on Jurgen's page) to turn the wind knob counterclockwise first, then clockwise. Mine works just the opposite -- I can't turn it counterclockwise first; I have to turn it clockwise, which winds the film, advances the counter and clears the double exposure lock. I'm not really clear what the counterclockwise turn does.
My camera had been serviced by Jurgen, according to the previous owner, so maybe he did something to it? All I know is that, based on my first roll's experience, it works fine -- frame spacing is pretty good. The Radionar lens does very well also, even at wider apertures. The frames have rounded corners, which is a pretty cool "old school" effect.
I recently got a Super Baldax myself. I am mystified by the instructions there (and on Jurgen's page) to turn the wind knob counterclockwise first, then clockwise. Mine works just the opposite -- I can't turn it counterclockwise first; I have to turn it clockwise, which winds the film, advances the counter and clears the double exposure lock. I'm not really clear what the counterclockwise turn does.
My camera had been serviced by Jurgen, according to the previous owner, so maybe he did something to it? All I know is that, based on my first roll's experience, it works fine -- frame spacing is pretty good. The Radionar lens does very well also, even at wider apertures. The frames have rounded corners, which is a pretty cool "old school" effect.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
If you can't do it yourself, probably the best people to send it to are Essex Camera Services, in New Jersey. Very high quality work, excellent reputation, reasonable costs.
Edit: I would NOT send it back to Jurgen. I have become convinced, after conversations with several of his customers, that the man couldn't find his own ass with both hands and a flashlight.
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Poohblah
Member
Ugh. I went out and shot today, and I followed the instructions exactly, yet I still had a couple frames I had to skip because the shutter would not release even though I had wound the advance knob all the way in both directions. Yes, the shutter was cocked. I've a mind to send it to Essex but I'm not yet convinced that it's not user error.
Poohblah
Member
Just developed my first two rolls from the Baldax. There's a nice little light leak on the bottom bellows seal. Essex, here I come.
Unfortunately, I already loaded the camera preemptively with another roll. I can just wind on all the way, then reload the (now reversed) film and wind on all the way again, right?
Unfortunately, I already loaded the camera preemptively with another roll. I can just wind on all the way, then reload the (now reversed) film and wind on all the way again, right?
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
120 film will buckle terribly if you reverse roll it. Rewinding or self-loading paper backed film can't be done with the film already attached to the paper, as the difference between the radius of film and paper adds up to quite a bulge by the time you reach the start, which will affect film flatness.
You may sometimes be able to make do with rewinding it loosely in a dark bag and pulling the paper leader tight once you are done, but YMMV. In regular loading, the film is only taped to the paper after winding the film/paper sandwich up to the film start.
Sevo
Poohblah
Member
Ok, gotcha - and also because the film isn't taped at the other end, right? I have a changing bag that I use for loading film onto reels so I'll use that instead.
But, I just looked at Essex's prices. I can't afford to spend $100+ on a CLA!
The negatives so far are simply gorgeous! If I could figure out how to fix these light leaks myself then at least I would feel a little better.
But, I just looked at Essex's prices. I can't afford to spend $100+ on a CLA!
The negatives so far are simply gorgeous! If I could figure out how to fix these light leaks myself then at least I would feel a little better.
FallisPhoto
Veteran
Well, I only charge $80. Can you afford that? Essex used to charge that (for most folders) a few years ago, but their prices went up and mine didn't. If that's still too much, post a photo of the film with the light leak, and I'll try to guide you through the repairs.
Edit: BTW, none of this comes as a surprise. There are quite a few horror stories here about C6's "restorations" and repairs.
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FallisPhoto
Veteran
Andrew, someone who screws up as often and as badly as he apparently does, telling me that he will work on it again is ... well, ... somehow not very reassuring.
chippy
foo was here
cant argue with that....seems some sort of injustice to it though eh!
Poohblah
Member
Attached is a scan from a test roll where you can clearly see the light leaks.
Attachments
chippy
foo was here
doesn't look like it is the bellows though...somewhere else (i.e.film chamber) or in the handling of the film.
should give the camera a check in the dark like i mentioned earlier, before sending it off
was it on every frame or just these few? and where on the roll, beginning, end or middle?
may need to get more creative and place a small lamp inside the closed camera to test for a leak in the camera back...odds are its in the handling of the film but hard to tell without more info
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Poohblah
Member
Was throughout the entire roll. I really wish I could check the camera right now for the leak, but it sorta has film in it at the moment...
Although, now that you point it out, I am nearly sure at the moment that it was due to handling the film because my other test roll did not suffer anywhere near as badly as the one I scanned and attached above.
Although, now that you point it out, I am nearly sure at the moment that it was due to handling the film because my other test roll did not suffer anywhere near as badly as the one I scanned and attached above.