Processing fiber papers w/ just three trays

Steve M.

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I had to make my developing trays because my paper is 16x20, and I had nothing that size that they would fit in. Got three of them made, and in an effort to be lazy, I was wondering if there is some way I could process them in just three trays?

Normally I use 5, and it goes developer, stop, fixer, hypo and lastly into the water holding tank. I could skip the stop since they are going to be developed to completion anyway, but the only solution I can think of to use just three trays means dev, fixer, and leave them in the hypo for a couple of hours until I can get all of them printed and hustled into the bathroom for a long wash.

This isn't going to work is it? Any other ideas on a three tray setup, or should I just make two more trays?
 
Of course it woks!

Of course it woks!

Three trays is plenty. You just have to change the water more often. And when your done in the dark room, you can keep the developer and fixer and use all three trays for washing and toning in broad daylight.

Remember to use khca to get rid of fixer.

Ps Heck, there's even a one tray development method, if you're keen,

I had to make my developing trays because my paper is 16x20, and I had nothing that size that they would fit in. Got three of them made, and in an effort to be lazy, I was wondering if there is some way I could process them in just three trays?

Normally I use 5, and it goes developer, stop, fixer, hypo and lastly into the water holding tank. I could skip the stop since they are going to be developed to completion anyway, but the only solution I can think of to use just three trays means dev, fixer, and leave them in the hypo for a couple of hours until I can get all of them printed and hustled into the bathroom for a long wash.

This isn't going to work is it? Any other ideas on a three tray setup, or should I just make two more trays?
 
Thanks wailong. I know about the one tray method, but am less than motivated to try something like that w/ multiple large prints and lots of chemicals:]

My concern is leaving the hypo in the last tray for so long w/ the papers sitting in it. That's the chemical I am using to flush out the fixer before washing the prints. I did find an old large plastic storage bin, so now I may have a 4th tray.

If I modify my workflow it should work OK. I will do dev, stop, give the print a dunk in the storage bin filled w/ water, then put the prints into the third tray to soak in the fixer for a minute or two. Then back into the storage bin w/ water to sit until the print run is complete, and take them into the bathroom to soak in the tub for 15 minutes, drain, soak in the hypo and water, then drain and wash for long time. Or just do away w/ the stop and have everything done on the three trays. Usually I use the stop bath, but I think it will work this way w/ paper vs film.
 
By "hypo" do you mean Hypo Clearing Agent (HCA) like the Kodak product? Hypo is the old name for sodium thiosulphate (it used to be called sodium hyposulphite, hence the abbreviation). As it happens, many people use two bath fixing, and some of them, myself included, use plain "hypo" as the second fixing bath for reasons of economy.

I have done very large prints (on 40inch paper) in two home made baths, just developer and fixer, no stop. I didn't get any stains, but I have more recently got stains using just water as a sort of stop. Now I do use a stop bath. If you don't use a stop then your fixer is apparently not going to last as long because of carry-over of developer but I'm not sure how much that matters.

Given the price of paper I would use a real stop bath, then fixer then HCA then store in water before main washing later. A water rinse before HCA would keep it fresher if you are doing quite a few prints. You will probably throw it away after the session. It's very cheap to make.
 
My solution to this is to use four trays. The fourth tray goes on a low stand underneath the darkroom sink.
 
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