smileyguy
Established
A bit of a double pronged question.
Part 1.
I have had one too many bad experiences with Henry's Cameras in Cambridge since they switched the lab they were using back in February. My slide film has come back dirty, water/chemical marks on the film and mounted incorrectly. My b&w film has come back chewed up and incorrectly cut. I'm done. But...
What are my options in this town? Or in Hamilton or London (places where I work frequently). Does Black's use the same lab as Henry's?
Part 2.
I thought that part of my solution would be to process at home. I'm actually leaning more toward this solution anyway. What do I need? I don't need to print, I only need to process to negatives because I scan the negs anyway. I'm assuming that I need a changing bag, tank, spools, chemicals but I also need details about those things. Is there a store that sells a basic package that would do for me?
All your input and help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Part 1.
I have had one too many bad experiences with Henry's Cameras in Cambridge since they switched the lab they were using back in February. My slide film has come back dirty, water/chemical marks on the film and mounted incorrectly. My b&w film has come back chewed up and incorrectly cut. I'm done. But...
What are my options in this town? Or in Hamilton or London (places where I work frequently). Does Black's use the same lab as Henry's?
Part 2.
I thought that part of my solution would be to process at home. I'm actually leaning more toward this solution anyway. What do I need? I don't need to print, I only need to process to negatives because I scan the negs anyway. I'm assuming that I need a changing bag, tank, spools, chemicals but I also need details about those things. Is there a store that sells a basic package that would do for me?
All your input and help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
the_jim
human
Developing at home is the way to go and can actually be pretty fun. I live in a tiny studio apt and it would be impossible to make any room light-tight. I love to come home after work, drink a beer and develop.
I can't answer your first question as I am not in Canada, but to your second point I would suggest a few things:
1. Get this changing bag http://www.filmtools.com/dotchanbag.html
It's the one I use - very high quality and much cheaper than the name brands.
I am sure this one is just as good
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107635-REG/General_Brand_NPPRO_36x45_Pro_Double_Lined.html
2. Get a metal reel and tank like this
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71026-REG/Kalt_NP10113_Stainless_Steel_Developing_Tank.html
and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71022-REG/Kalt_NP10109_35mm_Stainless_Steel_Reel.html
I'm sure there are good plastic tanks and reels, but I have never liked the ones I used. Once you get the hang of the metal reels, you'll find they are fast and dependable.
3. Get chemicals and Jugs.
I recommend anything. You really can't go wrong. Choose a simple developer like D-76, get some stop bath solution and fix.
4. Buy a nice pair of scissors.
With a little bit of trial and error you should be off and running.
I can't answer your first question as I am not in Canada, but to your second point I would suggest a few things:
1. Get this changing bag http://www.filmtools.com/dotchanbag.html
It's the one I use - very high quality and much cheaper than the name brands.
I am sure this one is just as good
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/107635-REG/General_Brand_NPPRO_36x45_Pro_Double_Lined.html
2. Get a metal reel and tank like this
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71026-REG/Kalt_NP10113_Stainless_Steel_Developing_Tank.html
and
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71022-REG/Kalt_NP10109_35mm_Stainless_Steel_Reel.html
I'm sure there are good plastic tanks and reels, but I have never liked the ones I used. Once you get the hang of the metal reels, you'll find they are fast and dependable.
3. Get chemicals and Jugs.
I recommend anything. You really can't go wrong. Choose a simple developer like D-76, get some stop bath solution and fix.
4. Buy a nice pair of scissors.
With a little bit of trial and error you should be off and running.
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Just off the top of my head this is what you would need...if I forget anything someone will add to the list...
1. Changing Bag (Tent) get one that's fairly big (roomy)
2. Developing Tank (Your choice Plastic or Metal)
3. Measuring cup (One big one-1 Litre and a smaller one maybe 300ml)
4. Thermometer
5. Developer (Too many to choose from...maybe start with one already in liquid form)
6. Fixer (Same as above)
7. Funnel (cheap ones at Auto Parts store or a funnel w/filter-camera store item)
8. Timer (optional, a watch will do but a timer that will count down is easier)
9. A dry dust-free area to hang the film to dry.
10. Wood or plastic clothes pins to weigh down film while drying.
11. Scissors
12. Bottle Opener (to open film canister in the changing bag)
13. Towels
I'm running out of things to list...
14. Neg Holders for safe storage.
15. Photo-Flo
16. Film Cleaner or alcohol...you might have to remove dust or water-spots before scanning...
1. Changing Bag (Tent) get one that's fairly big (roomy)
2. Developing Tank (Your choice Plastic or Metal)
3. Measuring cup (One big one-1 Litre and a smaller one maybe 300ml)
4. Thermometer
5. Developer (Too many to choose from...maybe start with one already in liquid form)
6. Fixer (Same as above)
7. Funnel (cheap ones at Auto Parts store or a funnel w/filter-camera store item)
8. Timer (optional, a watch will do but a timer that will count down is easier)
9. A dry dust-free area to hang the film to dry.
10. Wood or plastic clothes pins to weigh down film while drying.
11. Scissors
12. Bottle Opener (to open film canister in the changing bag)
13. Towels
I'm running out of things to list...
14. Neg Holders for safe storage.
15. Photo-Flo
16. Film Cleaner or alcohol...you might have to remove dust or water-spots before scanning...
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nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Item #7. Funnel...
I have a Paterson Funnel that has a filter/screen in it, and is removable if desired, and I use it when pouring the Fixer back in it's bottle. Most likely you'll dispose of the developer...so no need for it there...
I have a Paterson Funnel that has a filter/screen in it, and is removable if desired, and I use it when pouring the Fixer back in it's bottle. Most likely you'll dispose of the developer...so no need for it there...
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Hi, Smiles!
A lot of us do already what you have in mind: develop, dry and scan.
I had help from people here (there must be a thread in which I asked questions and got a lot of answers), but now that I know, you will need:
A changing bag (don't make it huge, a 15 inch one will be enough)
A tank for two rolls (try the plastic type b/c it's easier to spool film in)
Containers to maintain chemicals (six, one small and one large for each)
Measuring cups to mix and pour and to measure fluids (plastic graduates)
Scissors
Clips to hang film
A safe place to hang film (a shower is the best; you run some hot water until it steams and that does away with the dust)
As for chemicals, if you're a newbie, go for
D-76
Powder Kodak fixer or liquid Ilford fixer
Stop bath
HCA
Wetting agent (the Kodak type is known as Photo Flo)
Run a google search for "how to develop film" and you'll get THESE RESULTS. The website I found apparently no longer exists, but most say the same thing. There's also an Ilford tutorial that I found extremely useful.
However, nobody was more helpful than William Lewis, from Madison WI, who helped me make the purchases I needed, gave me tips about how to carry out the whole process, and was very understanding with all my stupid questions.
Do it carefully and paying attention the first time. With time and practice you'll come to enjoy it. Just remember that agitation doesn't mean martini shaking, but there's still no right verb in the English language to describe the movement you need to do when developing film.
Take care and have a lot of good, wet fun in any kitchen or bathroom sink!
A lot of us do already what you have in mind: develop, dry and scan.
I had help from people here (there must be a thread in which I asked questions and got a lot of answers), but now that I know, you will need:
A changing bag (don't make it huge, a 15 inch one will be enough)
A tank for two rolls (try the plastic type b/c it's easier to spool film in)
Containers to maintain chemicals (six, one small and one large for each)
Measuring cups to mix and pour and to measure fluids (plastic graduates)
Scissors
Clips to hang film
A safe place to hang film (a shower is the best; you run some hot water until it steams and that does away with the dust)
As for chemicals, if you're a newbie, go for
D-76
Powder Kodak fixer or liquid Ilford fixer
Stop bath
HCA
Wetting agent (the Kodak type is known as Photo Flo)
Run a google search for "how to develop film" and you'll get THESE RESULTS. The website I found apparently no longer exists, but most say the same thing. There's also an Ilford tutorial that I found extremely useful.
However, nobody was more helpful than William Lewis, from Madison WI, who helped me make the purchases I needed, gave me tips about how to carry out the whole process, and was very understanding with all my stupid questions.
Do it carefully and paying attention the first time. With time and practice you'll come to enjoy it. Just remember that agitation doesn't mean martini shaking, but there's still no right verb in the English language to describe the movement you need to do when developing film.
Take care and have a lot of good, wet fun in any kitchen or bathroom sink!
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Your first few rolls might be of something you could reshoot not your next "Family Reunion"...
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Oh, yeah! Funnels and something to stir stuff with; you could use any kitchen utensil (just buy one for your chemicals, don't grab anything from the kitchen, wash it and put it back; not a good idea).
Also, you'll need a bucket to mix your chemicals, and some good ole fashioned empty gallon containers to measure water. If you pick the D-76, make sure to store it in one of the so-called "accordion bottles" that squeeze the air out and go down as you use your developer.
Personally, after using D-76 a number of times, got tired of mixing powders and switched completely to liquid chemicals. Unlike D-76 solution, liquid developers and fixers are concentrated and have a longer shelf life.
Now, read on what others will add. Take care and enjoy!
Also, you'll need a bucket to mix your chemicals, and some good ole fashioned empty gallon containers to measure water. If you pick the D-76, make sure to store it in one of the so-called "accordion bottles" that squeeze the air out and go down as you use your developer.
Personally, after using D-76 a number of times, got tired of mixing powders and switched completely to liquid chemicals. Unlike D-76 solution, liquid developers and fixers are concentrated and have a longer shelf life.
Now, read on what others will add. Take care and enjoy!
slm
Formerly nextreme
You might be able to get away without using a changing bag if you have a room that you can temporarily make light tight. Some bathrooms have small windows that can be blocked, assuming the door closes tight (a sheet could help there). A walk in type closet could work too (no window). The other thing I would suggest is using a liquid concentrate developer in a one use manner makes things really easy too. Kodak HC110 and Rodinal are the only two developers I use.
Disaster_Area
Gadget Monger
I had the exact same problem... only it was Henry's up in Ancaster that messed up my film. I've ended up going the ULTRA low rent method:
- I transfer film from can to dev tank in my storage room (4ft by 8 ft closet basically) but I've done it in my bathroom too. I usually do my developing at night so light leaking in isnt a problem. I just hate changing bags, they're restrictive and annoying.
- I use HC110 developer as a one shot developer so I mix it as I need it (Henry's carries it), I don't use a stop, just a thorough water rinse. I have my fix pre-mixed in a white orange juice jug. Finally I use Kodak's cleaning agent as a one shot as well at the end.
- hang dry in the storage room and scan on an Epson V500
So basically I only have one jug of pre mixed fixer, everything else I mix as I need, one graduated cylinder to mix the developer and one to mix the cleaning agent. I use the metal canisters for medium format but use the patterson plastic reals for 35mm. I've tried metal for 35mm but find it too fiddly... I grew up on pattersons in high school and get quick and consistent results with them... it's really up to personal choice. All in all my whole "Dark Room" fits in one half of the bathroom cabinet under the sink. The only place I splurged in my setup was I got the medium format film holder for my V500 from betterscanning.com... its INFINITELY better than the one that comes with the scanner and I really noticed a difference with the variable height feature to get perfect focus. I'm going to get the 35mm one as soon as budget allows.
- I transfer film from can to dev tank in my storage room (4ft by 8 ft closet basically) but I've done it in my bathroom too. I usually do my developing at night so light leaking in isnt a problem. I just hate changing bags, they're restrictive and annoying.
- I use HC110 developer as a one shot developer so I mix it as I need it (Henry's carries it), I don't use a stop, just a thorough water rinse. I have my fix pre-mixed in a white orange juice jug. Finally I use Kodak's cleaning agent as a one shot as well at the end.
- hang dry in the storage room and scan on an Epson V500
So basically I only have one jug of pre mixed fixer, everything else I mix as I need, one graduated cylinder to mix the developer and one to mix the cleaning agent. I use the metal canisters for medium format but use the patterson plastic reals for 35mm. I've tried metal for 35mm but find it too fiddly... I grew up on pattersons in high school and get quick and consistent results with them... it's really up to personal choice. All in all my whole "Dark Room" fits in one half of the bathroom cabinet under the sink. The only place I splurged in my setup was I got the medium format film holder for my V500 from betterscanning.com... its INFINITELY better than the one that comes with the scanner and I really noticed a difference with the variable height feature to get perfect focus. I'm going to get the 35mm one as soon as budget allows.
Bob Michaels
nobody special
1) buy chemistry new. You need developer, fixer and PhotoFlo. You do not need stop bath or hypo clearing agent.
2) buy developing tanks used from Craigslist, E-Bay or you may know someone who will give them to you. Lots of used ones around.
3) buy everything else from a big box retailer's housewares department. A Kodak graduate is $20 while one from Sam's costs $1- and does the same thing. A stainless steel film hanger clip costs $8 but you can buy a bag of clothespins for $1. That list goes on and on. You will never know the difference later looking at the negs.
Tip: get a few rolls of junk film and practice loading them in the daylight. Do it several times and get comfortable before you try it in the dark. Then, and only then, do you begin with actual film you have exposed and care about.
2) buy developing tanks used from Craigslist, E-Bay or you may know someone who will give them to you. Lots of used ones around.
3) buy everything else from a big box retailer's housewares department. A Kodak graduate is $20 while one from Sam's costs $1- and does the same thing. A stainless steel film hanger clip costs $8 but you can buy a bag of clothespins for $1. That list goes on and on. You will never know the difference later looking at the negs.
Tip: get a few rolls of junk film and practice loading them in the daylight. Do it several times and get comfortable before you try it in the dark. Then, and only then, do you begin with actual film you have exposed and care about.
40oz
...
Use distilled water for the final rinse with photo-flo/whatever. Makes a huge difference vs. tap water.
Disaster_Area
Gadget Monger
hmm... I was always told that the developer should be distilled water and the rest didnt matter.. I'll have to try using it on the last step too.
David William White
Well-known
I'm just 'down the street' from you and have converted my basement into a darkroom. If you are looking for one shop to help you, get to Burlington Camera. If you're not familiar with it, it is family-run and will probably be the last, best, film-based supplier in the Golden Horseshoe. Their basement is full of new and used equipment, and they have three generations of knowledge to guide you to the right equipment.
A bit of a double pronged question.
Part 1.
I have had one too many bad experiences with Henry's Cameras in Cambridge since they switched the lab they were using back in February. My slide film has come back dirty, water/chemical marks on the film and mounted incorrectly. My b&w film has come back chewed up and incorrectly cut. I'm done. But...
What are my options in this town? Or in Hamilton or London (places where I work frequently). Does Black's use the same lab as Henry's?
Part 2.
I thought that part of my solution would be to process at home. I'm actually leaning more toward this solution anyway. What do I need? I don't need to print, I only need to process to negatives because I scan the negs anyway. I'm assuming that I need a changing bag, tank, spools, chemicals but I also need details about those things. Is there a store that sells a basic package that would do for me?
All your input and help is much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
ravid905
Established
I would definitely second the Burlington Camera recommendation. Very friendly, very helpful, and always willing to take the time to help you with anything. I can recall many times in the past with them spending maybe 15 to 20 minutes helping me when I was first learning, whether I was only asking advice and not buying, or even if all I walked away with was a pair of film drying clips.
I kept driving by this place and decided to just go in one day, I had an old camera that belonged to my grandfather which didn't work, thinking maybe I could get a couple of bucks for it. I was told that there was nothing wrong with the camera, he showed me how to use it, told me some more things about it, that the lenses are very good and cheap, so it may be worthwhile to keep and use.
In the end I walked out with my camera in hand, alot of advice, and an understanding of what people mean when they say service really sucks at other camera stores these days, and it cost me nothing. I've never gone anywhere else since.
I kept driving by this place and decided to just go in one day, I had an old camera that belonged to my grandfather which didn't work, thinking maybe I could get a couple of bucks for it. I was told that there was nothing wrong with the camera, he showed me how to use it, told me some more things about it, that the lenses are very good and cheap, so it may be worthwhile to keep and use.
In the end I walked out with my camera in hand, alot of advice, and an understanding of what people mean when they say service really sucks at other camera stores these days, and it cost me nothing. I've never gone anywhere else since.
ampguy
Veteran
lots of good info. I recently setup a similar developing system and found someone who went digital and got some used stuff cheap and new chemicals and it's worked out well.
I've been dumping fixer after every use, but re-using sounds like a good idea. D76 used 1:1 from powder works well, no stop, and just finding a dark room to load the film is good - I couldn't imagine loading well in a bag.
Also, a couple of ounce graduates (30, 50, or 100 should be fine), even if you mix from powders (just use gallon and 1/2 gallon jugs that can be squeezed to get the air out. Also, note that you only need 10 ounces for 2 rolls (5 ounces of developer and fixer if mixed 1:1), and some 12-16 ounce squeezable water bottles for the hypo mix.
Pre-measure and let the developer and fixer adjust to the room temperature, so you can base your developing time on room temp, and not need a dedicated liquid thermometer.
When mixing up from powders, pour small amounts into the gallon jugs, and add water gradually, then you also won't need dedicated mixers. I haven't found the need to keep them in darkened containers, as long as the containers get stored away from direct light (I keep them under a bathroom sink, clearly labeled).
I got my stuff, along with some negative sleeves from freestyle online. This setup also works great for color film (well if you're ok with the results being b/w), just add a couple of minutes to the developing time...
I've been dumping fixer after every use, but re-using sounds like a good idea. D76 used 1:1 from powder works well, no stop, and just finding a dark room to load the film is good - I couldn't imagine loading well in a bag.
Also, a couple of ounce graduates (30, 50, or 100 should be fine), even if you mix from powders (just use gallon and 1/2 gallon jugs that can be squeezed to get the air out. Also, note that you only need 10 ounces for 2 rolls (5 ounces of developer and fixer if mixed 1:1), and some 12-16 ounce squeezable water bottles for the hypo mix.
Pre-measure and let the developer and fixer adjust to the room temperature, so you can base your developing time on room temp, and not need a dedicated liquid thermometer.
When mixing up from powders, pour small amounts into the gallon jugs, and add water gradually, then you also won't need dedicated mixers. I haven't found the need to keep them in darkened containers, as long as the containers get stored away from direct light (I keep them under a bathroom sink, clearly labeled).
I got my stuff, along with some negative sleeves from freestyle online. This setup also works great for color film (well if you're ok with the results being b/w), just add a couple of minutes to the developing time...
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Bob's right: sacrifice maybe a couple of rolls to practice spooling the film and just don't try anything until you can do it without looking... because whether you use a bag or not, that's what's going to happen.
goo0h
Well-known
I started out with some JOBO plastic reels and tank. Got frustrated with those after a while, and they sure get dirty in a hurry if using XTOL. I heard Hewes was the best, so in a burst of frustration I ordered some:
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002256
A bit expensive, but I must say I sure wish I got them sooner. I find them so much easier and faster to load. Each to his/her own. This has just been my experience.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_prod.php?cat_id=&pid=1000002256
A bit expensive, but I must say I sure wish I got them sooner. I find them so much easier and faster to load. Each to his/her own. This has just been my experience.
Merkinz
Member
I can't really add to this other than if you can get them at a good price get at least a couple (I have 3) reels. So you can do a couple at a time and then use the dry ones when you finish the first batch of films. Film won't go on them if they are even slightly damp. I'd also recommend that you get an old tooth brush and use this to scrub the reels in hot water after each use. I absolutely HATE it when film jams on the reel. I have a short patience and sometimes end up ripping it out of the change bag and casting it across the room! (well its happened once or twice ).
I love it though. it's cheap, fun, and relatively easy! When I first started up I thought I'd need a room full of gear but everything I use fits in a bucket + 2 chemical canisters. Good luck! The first one is always the most exciting as well.
).I love it though. it's cheap, fun, and relatively easy! When I first started up I thought I'd need a room full of gear but everything I use fits in a bucket + 2 chemical canisters. Good luck! The first one is always the most exciting as well.
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Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
You'll find that once you get into developing your own film like everything in life you'll start to acumulate bits and pieces. Often I've been somewhere and struck up a conversation with someone over my camera and finished up being the recipient of the odd piece of darkroom gear. I have about four or five developing tanks that have been given to me plus a few other bits and pieces.
The advice about your first few rolls being unimportant subject material is sound ... it's easy when your flustered and worrying about your end product to pick up a wrong jug or severely damage a film when loading a reel. In a month or two you'll feel like you've been doing it for years and all the actions will become familiar and uncomplicated ... then you can start to experiment a little in your developing to get the the results you want that match your shooting style ... not necessarily the ones that come with recommended times and dilutions etc!
It's all fun!
The advice about your first few rolls being unimportant subject material is sound ... it's easy when your flustered and worrying about your end product to pick up a wrong jug or severely damage a film when loading a reel. In a month or two you'll feel like you've been doing it for years and all the actions will become familiar and uncomplicated ... then you can start to experiment a little in your developing to get the the results you want that match your shooting style ... not necessarily the ones that come with recommended times and dilutions etc!
It's all fun!
