kiss-o-matic
Well-known
I'm back in the US, and Tri-X is affordable and available. I've done a few rolls in Rodinal, but I've found the grain a bit thicker than desired. I'm trying for high contrast, but somewhat subdued grain.
In Japan I used Rollei Retro 400s & Atomol49 and liked the results.
trudge by gaijin_punch, on Flickrhttps://farm9.s[url=https://flic.kr/p/qKuDG1][img]https://farm9.s
[url=https://flic.kr/p/qeAHgr][img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8644/15906449507_166ac4b1bd_z.jpg
Windy by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
I read the XTOL thread here which I will admit is a little off-putting. The 5L minimum was already a hurdle. The special care w/ oxygenation is another. All in all, it may not be worth it. Anyone want to chime in on D76 and HC-11? I don't mind losing shadow detail, usually. That's to say, I'm willing to sacrifice it for a more dramatic contrast. And obviously, I'd like finer grain than Rodinal can offer.
I mix everything in distilled water (something else that's cheap and available here but pricey back in Japan -- woot!)
PS: My favorite combo to date is Retro80s in Rodinal. Dreamy. Ultimately trying to get as close to that in 400 as possible.
In Japan I used Rollei Retro 400s & Atomol49 and liked the results.
trudge by gaijin_punch, on Flickrhttps://farm9.s[url=https://flic.kr/p/qKuDG1][img]https://farm9.s
[url=https://flic.kr/p/qeAHgr][img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8644/15906449507_166ac4b1bd_z.jpg
Windy by gaijin_punch, on Flickr
I read the XTOL thread here which I will admit is a little off-putting. The 5L minimum was already a hurdle. The special care w/ oxygenation is another. All in all, it may not be worth it. Anyone want to chime in on D76 and HC-11? I don't mind losing shadow detail, usually. That's to say, I'm willing to sacrifice it for a more dramatic contrast. And obviously, I'd like finer grain than Rodinal can offer.
I mix everything in distilled water (something else that's cheap and available here but pricey back in Japan -- woot!)
PS: My favorite combo to date is Retro80s in Rodinal. Dreamy. Ultimately trying to get as close to that in 400 as possible.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I use XTOL in tap water and store it in camping collapsible canister. No problems.
But HC-110 is much more easier to store and faster to develop. I used it with film you are interested, no surprises. I use this developer with any b/w film.
But I like the grain and using filters and PP for contrast.
But HC-110 is much more easier to store and faster to develop. I used it with film you are interested, no surprises. I use this developer with any b/w film.
But I like the grain and using filters and PP for contrast.
Villanova
Minister of Silly Walks
Have you considered Ilfosol-3? I know it's for slower films and finer grain. Ilford DD-X is a great all-purpose developer.
I've had great results with both. Ilfosol-3 and DD-X are liquid developers, which is nice. You can make however much you need when needed.
I've had great results with both. Ilfosol-3 and DD-X are liquid developers, which is nice. You can make however much you need when needed.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
D-76 1+1 is beautiful with Tri-X, the classic combination for many photographers. I also really like it with Tmax 100 and Tmax 400, and Ilford FP-4 and HP-5.
If you don't want to mess with powders and want something with a long shelf life, Tmax Developer is great. Its expensive but can be diluted 1+7 instad of the standard 1+4, which saves money and gives great tonality. Most films give great results at 1+7 by multiplying the recommended time for the 1+4 dilution by 1.5.
If you don't want to mess with powders and want something with a long shelf life, Tmax Developer is great. Its expensive but can be diluted 1+7 instad of the standard 1+4, which saves money and gives great tonality. Most films give great results at 1+7 by multiplying the recommended time for the 1+4 dilution by 1.5.
pschauss
Well-known
I switched from D-76 to HC110 because the latter gave me more consistent results regardless of how old it was.
f16sunshine
Moderator
This is good advice. Tmax dev gives a very clean look and good speed(although I still use 1:4 mixing ratio).
Freestyle also has an economy version of Tmax Developer.... Their L-Max developer is supposedly a very close copy of the Kodak formula.
DNG
Film Friendly
I use Tmax films in HC110 H (1:60) [10ml to 590ml Distilled water for 2 rolls]
I use HC110 straight of the bottle, not the recommended 1:9 Stock solution
Great shadow and highlights, grain is sharp and good contrast.
Back in the 60's I used Microdol-X 1:3 with Plus-X and Tri-X
good grain, but highlights could block up.. best to under rate the film 1/3
I use HC110 straight of the bottle, not the recommended 1:9 Stock solution
Great shadow and highlights, grain is sharp and good contrast.
Back in the 60's I used Microdol-X 1:3 with Plus-X and Tri-X
good grain, but highlights could block up.. best to under rate the film 1/3
znapper
Well-known
HC-110 is in the middle of the pack of the Kodak developers, concerning grain, speed and sharpness, but the definite best concerning longevity.
I alternate between Rodinal for slower films and HC-110 for higher speeds and slowers speed films, works very well.
The contrast you can alter trough shooting, development and processing and also in the darkroom, so I doubt you'll see any huge difference between the various developers, not sure, I am not experienced enough with IE XTol (which, as you can see from the chart, has best speed, lowest grain and very high sharpness).
Mind you: I've been told many times that the differences aren't huge if you start comparing by eye, the chart are measured relative indicators.
It really is too bad that XTol come in huge batches and doesn't last for very long, I am a low volume guy but love the results I get from XTol.
- But HC-110 is definately no slouch....and it will outlast any developer on that list, and then some.
I alternate between Rodinal for slower films and HC-110 for higher speeds and slowers speed films, works very well.
The contrast you can alter trough shooting, development and processing and also in the darkroom, so I doubt you'll see any huge difference between the various developers, not sure, I am not experienced enough with IE XTol (which, as you can see from the chart, has best speed, lowest grain and very high sharpness).
Mind you: I've been told many times that the differences aren't huge if you start comparing by eye, the chart are measured relative indicators.
It really is too bad that XTol come in huge batches and doesn't last for very long, I am a low volume guy but love the results I get from XTol.
- But HC-110 is definately no slouch....and it will outlast any developer on that list, and then some.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
As expected, some varied results. 
I should probably grab a couple and do some tests to compare. Guess I'll grab one on the way home from work and see.
I have 4 of these (well, one doesn't stay collapsed) that I used for C-41 a while back. Perhaps I can run them through the dish washer a couple of times and re-purpose them.
I used DD-X a few times on some faster stuff (Delta 3200, etc.) and got fine results, but I could not get the freaking cap off of the container after I put it back on some the Ilford liquid products have kind of left a sour taste in my mouth. To boot, DD-X in Japan (where I was before) is ridiculously expensive. Like $45, compared to $18 here.
I don't mind mixing powders. Atomol 49 comes in powder only.
I should probably grab a couple and do some tests to compare. Guess I'll grab one on the way home from work and see.I have 4 of these (well, one doesn't stay collapsed) that I used for C-41 a while back. Perhaps I can run them through the dish washer a couple of times and re-purpose them.
I used DD-X a few times on some faster stuff (Delta 3200, etc.) and got fine results, but I could not get the freaking cap off of the container after I put it back on some the Ilford liquid products have kind of left a sour taste in my mouth. To boot, DD-X in Japan (where I was before) is ridiculously expensive. Like $45, compared to $18 here.
I don't mind mixing powders. Atomol 49 comes in powder only.
Fixcinater
Never enough smoky peat
I'd try HC110. Be cautious with your agitation as I find HC110 (I use it straight from the bottle, 5ml per film with water to cover so it is dead simple) to build highlights very quickly compared to D76.
kiss-o-matic
Well-known
Thanks for the tip. My guess is I'll make an attempt with both and see which I prefer.
yanchep_mike
Always Trying
I am with Chris on this one, D-76 1+1, tried many others always come back.
cheers
cheers
John Bragg
Well-known
HC-110 Dilution H (with just enough agitation) is my favorite developer. Works well with anything.
Gregoyle
Well-known
I don't think you can go wrong with any of the Kodak developers for Tri-X.
I think the look you are going for might be most easily accomplished with XTol or D-76. One suggestion if you are put off by the 5 liter minimum batch size for XTol is to make it at double concentration in 2.5 liters, then just do the math when you mix it for developing (e.g. 1 + 3 instead of 1 + 1). You can store it easily in 500mL bottles and squeeze out any air, storing in a box to protect from light. It lasts for months this way.
-Greg
I think the look you are going for might be most easily accomplished with XTol or D-76. One suggestion if you are put off by the 5 liter minimum batch size for XTol is to make it at double concentration in 2.5 liters, then just do the math when you mix it for developing (e.g. 1 + 3 instead of 1 + 1). You can store it easily in 500mL bottles and squeeze out any air, storing in a box to protect from light. It lasts for months this way.
-Greg
Bille
Well-known
Here´s Delta 100 in Rodinal 1+50 for a comparison. "Thick grain"... I dont think so. Cant speak for TMAX but from what I hear it is even smoother than Delta, even in Rodinal.
Filzkoeter
stray animal
I just tried this with a roll RPX400: HC110 Dilution H, agitation 30 sec. at the beginning + 3 turns every 3 minutes.
Developed for 15 minutes.
Veeeeeery nice results! Nice tones, nice tight grain, nice sharpness. I will definitely try this recipe for tri-x!
charjohncarter
Veteran
HC-110 is in the middle of the pack of the Kodak developers, concerning grain, speed and sharpness, but the definite best concerning longevity.
I alternate between Rodinal for slower films and HC-110 for higher speeds and slowers speed films, works very well.
The contrast you can alter trough shooting, development and processing and also in the darkroom, so I doubt you'll see any huge difference between the various developers, not sure, I am not experienced enough with IE XTol (which, as you can see from the chart, has best speed, lowest grain and very high sharpness).
Mind you: I've been told many times that the differences aren't huge if you start comparing by eye, the chart are measured relative indicators.
It really is too bad that XTol come in huge batches and doesn't last for very long, I am a low volume guy but love the results I get from XTol.
- But HC-110 is definately no slouch....and it will outlast any developer on that list, and then some.
The chart is a little deceiving as film speed for the chart is box speed and most users find their EI through testing. Therefore, shadow detail is a moot point unless you stick to the box speed.
I do agree with the OP, Trix (35mm) with Rodinal has too much grain for me too.
De_Corday
Eternal Student
After using ilfosol 3 with tri-x for a long time, I recently switched over to where most people start: D-76 1+1. The difference is subtle but definitely an improvement. At the cost of slightly higher grain (which to be honest I prefer) I find the negatives to be noticeably sharper and the tonality more... Rodinal like?. Despite the relative hassle of mixing up the stock solution, I'm now a d-76 convert for my 400 speed films.
bonatto
looking out
I am very happy with D-76 1+1. Good tolerance for developing temp/time variations. Don't have any reason to switch really.
mfogiel
Veteran
You will get a similar look with Tri X if you shoot it around EI 1000 and develop slightly longer with any non solvent developer, e.g. HC110 (try dil. B first), but this guy for example is using D76
https://www.flickr.com/photos/drasticgroove
https://www.flickr.com/photos/drasticgroove