Pushing acros 2 stops in 35mm

msbarnes

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I made a mistake yesterday. I exposed acros at ISO 400. Any recommendations for a 2 stop push?

I have D76 and Rodinal but I might be willing to add another developer.
 
HC-110 dilution H for around 18 minutes 20 degrees should be good.
1 min initial slow inv. Then 1-2 inv every 2 minutes.
 
It's one of the worst 'ISO 100' films in the world to push: well below ISO 100 in most developers ('well below' being a mere 1/3 stop, even so), with a short toe and (in my experience, and I am not alone) a small developer repertoire. Accept advice ONLY from those who have tried a particular combination of developer and Acros 100 when pushed, and shun anyone who recommends a particular developer/development regime purely in theoretical grounds; or from spec sheets; or because it's his favourite developer even though he hasn't tested it on that particular film for pushing.

Cheers,

R.
 
Well, I did say 'one of' (not 'the worst', though actually, in my experience it is) and I did say 'accept advice ONLY from those who have tried a particular combination of developer and Acros 100 when pushed' which ktran has done and appears to have done very well. It's just that I'd be much happier with advice from someone like ktran, who has successfully tried a specific combination, than from someone who hadn't.

Cheers,

R.
 
Hi, allow me to chime in. 🙂

My observations with pushing Acros 100 (and other 100 films) agree with Roger's points. I don't see these films as the best candidates for pushing. Contrast, highlight and shadow details, and true advantageous gains from underexposure/overdevelopment are my criteria for saying that Acros is not good for pushing and modified development.

The examples given here look fine and good. But they also appear to be shot in good light, and outdoors under even lighting conditions where there are other factors which can make the 'push' results look good.

I have tried pushing Acros in bad light- where the dim situations called for a higher emulsion speed. The contrast was high, the highlights were bullet proof, and there was almost no shadow detail.

I would never push Acros or 100 speed films, unless it was an emergency (no other film on hand, or in cases of mismatched ISO dials on meters or cameras).
 
And on that note, msbarnes, you'll just have to throw your film in the bin.

🙂

I agree with the above, that you shouldn't shoot acros as a 400 film (200 is usually just fine though, again, IMO ).

But when he is already gone and done it, what we are (at least I am) trying to do, is to provide formulas and times that worked with us, then at least, he will get something , just saying it isn't any good, doesn't help much. ^^
 
Acros pushes OK, I'd say a speed increasing developer like DDX or similar would be best.
I have pushed it to EI 800 through necessity rather than desire and processed it in Rodinal for 18 mins.
145878600.jpg

Not going to be king of shadow detail, but you might find it acceptable especially if scanning, remember if you want to do this again to meter for emerging detail and stop down 2 stops–you should stand a better chance...
Hope that helps.
Mark Antony
 
And on that note, msbarnes, you'll just have to throw your film in the bin.

🙂

I agree with the above, that you shouldn't shoot acros as a 400 film (200 is usually just fine though, again, IMO ).

But when he is already gone and done it, what we are (at least I am) trying to do, is to provide formulas and times that worked with us, then at least, he will get something , just saying it isn't any good, doesn't help much. ^^
That's all I was saying too. Trust someone who's tried it. Unless they say they've tried it, and (ideally) show results, ask why they're recommending it, in order to make sure they are advising from experience and not theory. You have to admit that the latter is not unknown on RFF.

Cheers,

R.
 
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