Canon LTM QL17 GIII questions

Canon M39 M39 screw mount bodies/lenses
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fbf

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I just received the QL17 GIII from the seller and I noticed several questions.

1. the aperture ring is very stiff. I assume this is NOT normal. Does this mean I need CLA for it? Anyone knows an eaiser way to do it yourself?

2. The light seal needs to be replaced. I have used Jon's seal for most of my cameras. Has anyone done it with Jon's seal? How does it work for you?

3. I can't seem to find 48mm caps on the bay. Anyone know where I can find one? or would the 49mm cap work?

4. Overall, I am REALLY surprised by the build and functionality of the camera. I am not a big fan of canon but I have to say this camera probably would serve me well. Anyone has any useful tips for using this gem?

I'd appreciate anyone's help. Thank you.

L.
 
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Hi,
You can download the user manual from here which might help. http://pentax-manuals.com/manuals/range/range.htm

1. The meter only works if you set the camera to "Auto". If it still doesn't work then, you may have a problem

2. It should not be that stiff but is easy to clean. Have a search for the threads on the Canonet and taking the front off is discussed several times.

3. I doubt a 49mm will fit. The 48mm ones are not rare and are easy to find on eBay.

Regards
Kim

fbf said:
I just received the QL17 GIII from the seller and I noticed several questions.

1. the meter needle doesn't seem move at all though the battery is new. Is it because there is no film in the camera?

2. the aperture ring is very stiff. I assume this is NOT normal. Does this mean I need CLA for it? Anyone knows an eaiser way to do it yourself?

3. I can't seem to find 48mm caps on the bay. Anyone know where I can find one? or would the 49mm cap work?


I'd appreciate anyone's help. Thank you.

L.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you so much Kim. I just checked the meter and it does only work on the A mode. Thats......a weird design. I will take a look at the old thread.

L.
 
I never touch the aperture ring...I leave it set on "A" and select the shutter speed and let the camera choose the corresponding aperture setting. I can then change the ASA/ISO setting to compensate or point the lens to something in the scene or my hand to change the aperture and if you depress the shutter half way, it will lock in the aperture where you want it. I found this be very helpful in controlling aperture even if a bit backwards for some.

I love the results I get with this camera. I don't love the focus tab or the way the camera feels in my hand so much (short height and compact controls) but I love the lens and the shutter is so slient, it makes my R2a shutter sound like cannon fire ( no pun intended)
 
Yeah these are great cameras - what a lens! Just remember if you leave it on "A" the meter is active, so cap it, deselect "A" or store it in your bag when not in use - otherwise the battery will drain quickly.
 
Thank you all. Those are great tips you mentioned.
I need to replace the light seal first and I will run a roll to see what the lens can do.
 
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bigdog said:
I love the results I get with this camera. I don't love the focus tab or the way the camera feels in my hand so much (short height and compact controls) but I love the lens and the shutter is so slient, it makes my R2a shutter sound like cannon fire ( no pun intended)
Click to expand...

I put a hand strap on it and it works great. I think the size is just right for me, especially with the help of hand strap. The focus tab is one thing I really like because its similar to leica lenses. :)
 
All advice above holds true.

I use a 48 to 49mm step up ring I got from B+H, and mount a 49mm haze filter in use, with a 49mm lens cap when the camera is stored. The 49mm items are easy to get locally.

Seals are easy with Jon's materials and directions. You probably won't need to replace the felt one on the hinge side. Odds are it's fine, and keeping it will save you significant effort.
 
Thanks, but I just bought the 48mm cap from the bay....it's kinda pricy. I am not sure if I'm going to use a filter because the camera is only worth 40$ and a good filter probably costs more than that.
I just found a brand new px13 in my drawer and that was for my rollei35s. I bought it from b&h a couple of years ago. It's not working on the ql17 Giii. Maybe it's been too long? I took off the green seal and left there for two hours. Still no luck.
 
update.
I spent an hour clean the the camera and old seals. It's harder than I thought so I spent another two hours replacing the seals... 0.0 Now it looks great :D
 
what did you use for the seals?
i hear "johns kit" mentioned, is that the one off ebay that is supposedly the most amazing light seal kit ever? (his words not mine lol ;)

any links?
 
i used mouse pad for seals. :D just cut thin strips of it and glue them in place of old seals. it works great.
 
fbf said:
1. the aperture ring is very stiff. I assume this is NOT normal. Does this mean I need CLA for it? Anyone knows an eaiser way to do it yourself?
Click to expand...

I have two of them, aperture ring is stiffer than on my other cameras, but it does move readily and does not bind.

2. The light seal needs to be replaced. I have used Jon's seal for most of my cameras. Has anyone done it with Jon's seal? How does it work for you?
Click to expand...

Excellent kit. The pieces fit. :) Getting the old seals out is the nasty part.

3. I can't seem to find 48mm caps on the bay. Anyone know where I can find one? or would the 49mm cap work?
Click to expand...

Actually, the generic 49mm one I use on the Mamiya fits the GIII quite well. This is one of those with two spring loaded things on the rim. These are sold under several brands.

Anyone has any useful tips for using this gem?
Click to expand...

Yes, play with it! Experiment with different films. Show off your photos! :)
 
Thanks. Just some updates.
1. I have replaced the seal and it looks like a new camera!!
2.I emailed Jon with the aperture ring and ASA dial problem and he told me to add a drop or two of naphtha. Now the aperture moves much more smoothly and the ASA works fine as well.


One more question, the yellow focus patch seems a little dim to me but it works fine at day light. Is this normal? It is not as clear as my M2. [FONT=&quot][/FONT]
 
Hey everyone, I also recently purchased a canonet ql17.
the aperture ring IS stiff and the light meter only works in the A position..
my question is to whether this is problem than can be fixed? or is it part of the initial design?
either way, i find myself feeling a little ripped off by the ebay seller due to lack of information....
 
jespin00 said:
Hey everyone, I also recently purchased a canonet ql17.
the aperture ring IS stiff and the light meter only works in the A position..
my question is to whether this is problem than can be fixed? or is it part of the initial design?
either way, i find myself feeling a little ripped off by the ebay seller due to lack of information....
Click to expand...

I can't comment on the stiff aperture ring but I can tell you that it's normal on that camera for the meter to only work when set in the A position.

-Randy
 
Agreed - don't feel ripped off - The "A" setting is fully automatic exposure, and is what effectively "turns on" the metering. The meter won't read anything when you are in manual mode - you'll need to use sunny 16 (or best guess) or an extra meter if you want to be in manual mode. But I can tell you on mine, the metering was very accurate, enough for what the camera is made for anyway.

As far as the aperature ring goes, mine was stiff too, and is so on a lot of the older rangefinders I have. You could pay out the nose to have the camera CLA'd, or just deal with it and/or shoot in "A" all the time. Enjoy it- it's one of the finest lenses I've seen. Good luck.
 
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