QL17GIII Latch Problem

[Jeff Scott]

I have a QL17GIII I recently purchased off Ebay and replaced the foam seals. My problem is that the latch will let go and the film back will pop open a bit exposing and ruining the film. I don't know if the camera had the problem prior to replacing the seals or even if the seals are the problem. The two hook-shaped latches on the camera body seem to barely catch the door latches. It is unpredictable as to when it will let go. I am not rough in any way with this beautiful little camera so please dont suggest I am tossing it around. Is there a way to tighten the latch?

 

[BrianShaw]

I would suspect that the new seals haven't yet compressed. I don't know what you are using for seal material but I generally "force" the camera closed and let it sit for a few days. That compresses the foam and then it latches and opens just fine. Double-check that you don't have the seals double-layered where they come together at right angles.

 

[gb hill]

It very well may be the new seals. My ql-17 has fairly new seals and I have to be careful the back locks after I load film in it. I've had it to pop open on me when I thought it was locked. So I make sure the back is closed before I wind on the film. After I do get the back closed I don't have any more problems with it. These are great cameras.

 

[Jeff Scott]

Thanks for the hints. However, the foam was installed almost 6 months ago and I still have the problem. This camera was in such pristine condition upon purchase I immediatly decided I wanted to make it a keeper! I have also invested the time and effort to remove the existing leather skins (although there was absolutely nothing wrong with them!) and replaced them with green pebbled calf skin. This camera takes great pictures and looks factory fresh. I definately want to keep it for life.

I had to try something. I removed the thick, fuzzy strip of foam that is placed on the camera body under the door hinge and replaced it with a thinner fuzzy strip. I first experimented by totally removing the strip and latching the camera - it latches perfectly every time. I hate light leaks so I replaced the thick fuzzy strip with a thin fuzzy strip. Perhaps the thicker strip was binding or putting a slight amount of excessive pressure on the hinge which in turn was not allowing the latch to hold properly.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[ebolton]

You'll probably find you've fixed it. I have film in mine now, so I don't want to open it, but if I remember correctly mine had a thin fabric piece on the hinge side, and not foam or anything thick. That piece was still in good shape when I did my own seals, so I left it there and avoided the complication around the hinge.

The other place you might have a problem is near the latch. The foam there does not go like you might think it would go, at least according to John Goodman's instructions. I cleaned mine out a week before I put the foam in, so I followed the instructions there instead of what it looked like it should be or how I thought I remembered it, and mine came out fine.

Ed

I had to try something. I removed the thick, fuzzy strip of foam that is placed on the camera body under the door hinge and replaced it with a thinner fuzzy strip. I first experimented by totally removing the strip and latching the camera - it latches perfectly every time. I hate light leaks so I replaced the thick fuzzy strip with a thin fuzzy strip. Perhaps the thicker strip was binding or putting a slight amount of excessive pressure on the hinge which in turn was not allowing the latch to hold properly.

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[BrianShaw]

...but if I remember correctly mine had a thin fabric piece on the hinge side, and not foam or anything thick. That piece was still in good shape when I did my own seals, so I left it there and avoided the complication around the hinge.

The best material for under the hinge is, indeed, a piece of rather thin felt. Anything thicker will cause problems with the door closing. I don't know what Goodman supplies for materials or what his instructions are, but that particular piece is generally the least of one's worries when re-sealing a Canonet... but it seems to be the one that causes the most problems after folks have tried replacing it.

 

[Jeff Scott]

He recommends using 1.6mm fabric or 1.5mm foam and that you should force it behind the hinge using a tiny screwdriver. I changed the thick fabric for a thinner piece and did not force it behind the hinge;rather, it fit in snug but not overly tight. The proof will be in the pudding - I am going to load it with film and give it a try. Also, I carefully checked the foam strips at the latch side and trimmed one tiny overlapping piece. It seems to be latching better now.

 

[BrianShaw]

Okay, thanks for filling me in on Jon's techniques. He certainly has built a reputation as "the Light Seal King". The only comments I would have is that the foam suggestion should not be first choice -- the felted cloth suggestion is better. I use a loosely black woven felt (craft felt, in fact) that may measure even a bit more than 1.6mm. Since it is so easily compressable it is tough to measure.

When he says "force it behind the hinge" I belive he is giving advist to use a tool to sneak it under the QL mechanism rather than suggesting removeal of the QL parts. I'd say "gently push felt under the silver QL mechanism so that the edge of the felt is AGAINST the hinge". I'm sure this is what Jon intends. The word "force" is a dangerous choice of words, as is the suggestion to get it "under" the hinge - which is quite an impossibility.

As a last comment, I find that this piece barely needs any adhesive at all to function properly. I gently insert the felt then sneak a small dot of adhesive under just to keep it from creeping.

It sounds to me like you have achieved success in your Canonet repair -- congrats and have fun with it!