certifiable
Established
My films are slightly angles, maybe half a mm or so, so it doesn't bother me at all.
Pre cutting is just so easy, so why bother with poking stuff in your camera?? keeping the shutter open en guiding the film in with your fingers? come on... just cut the leader, loading doesn't even take 30 seconds this way. (granted I pre-cut the leader before I leave on a trip)
Pre cutting is just so easy, so why bother with poking stuff in your camera?? keeping the shutter open en guiding the film in with your fingers? come on... just cut the leader, loading doesn't even take 30 seconds this way. (granted I pre-cut the leader before I leave on a trip)
Roger Hicks
Veteran
Yes, but you're thinking rationally, not in Internet Mode. You don't assume that you know better than the people who designed the cameras in question.
My father (at the time a naval officer) once wrote in an appraisal of one of his subordinates, "If he spent half as much time on work as he does on avoiding work, he would have been promoted by now."
Cheers,
R
Nomad Z
Well-known
Swiss army knife scissors for me as well. I trim the leader on the hoof, since I can never tell if the next roll out of the bag is going into the IIIf or the M2. I flip the camera upside down on the neck strap, bottom off and into the bag/pocket, and then draw out enough film to stretch from the left-hand end of the flat plate in the middle of the base (next to where the new spool will go), to the far right of the camera body. This is near enough to 4". I make a little snip in the film, 1/4" or so long, between perforations, two perforations away from the opening in the cassette, and angled a little away from the cassette as I cut. I then trim along the line of the existing leader until I'm nearly at the snip, with just a little bit of film holding the offcut in place. Give it a quick twist and it breaks off. Finish off by cutting a little chamfer at the outer edge to take away the corner created by the snip, taking care to not cut into the perforation. Takes a handful of seconds and works every time.
PatrickCheung
Well-known
Huh. I think my curtain has holes in it. Here's a few shots from my first roll. Some of them are pretty bad... some of them aren't... some of them are clean.
Damaged Frames...
Really Damaged Frames...
Clean Frames...
What should I do?
Damaged Frames...
Really Damaged Frames...
Clean Frames...
What should I do?
certifiable
Established
David Hughes
David Hughes
Huh. I think my curtain has holes in it. Here's a few shots from my first roll. Some of them are pretty bad... some of them aren't... some of them are clean.
Damaged Frames...
Really Damaged Frames...
Clean Frames...
What should I do?
Hi,
Get it repaired and checked over whilst being repaired.
Or, keep the lens cap on all the time and whip it off for the exposure and put it quickly back again. The light gets in whilst the film is sitting behind the lens with the lens cap off. The pattern of shots you show is typical. The longer between shots the more light gets in. I guess the last one was part of a sequence taken quickly and indoors. It's not a guaranteed method and I'd guess other things might well need looking at if the blinds are like that.
In your shoes I'd get it repaired.
Regards, David
wolves3012
Veteran
FWIW, I have a IIIC that *does* need the felt pad in the bottom. Without it, the film drops and sprocket holes appear in the frame.
As for loading them, it only takes a couple of practice goes to get the hang of it, at worst. I pre-cut a few films since I really can't see how juggling lens and body whilst sticking your fingers inside it beats the proper method. You only have to trim the film because they aren't available with the "Leica leader" nowadays.
As for loading them, it only takes a couple of practice goes to get the hang of it, at worst. I pre-cut a few films since I really can't see how juggling lens and body whilst sticking your fingers inside it beats the proper method. You only have to trim the film because they aren't available with the "Leica leader" nowadays.
David Hughes
David Hughes
Roger, this reply from you being on the internet seems to be a modern version of the Greek who said all Greeks are liars...
Regards, David
eli griggs
Well-known
I trim my films and I use a small cone-shaped spring under the centerpost of a regular film canister to keep the film in place. It doesn't interfere with operations though I have forgotten at times it's there, when I go to change film.
I also use original Leica film canisters for reloads, and they are perfect for my IIIc, though some of the felts needed changing.
I also use original Leica film canisters for reloads, and they are perfect for my IIIc, though some of the felts needed changing.
Ronald M
Veteran
Modern carts do fall because they are a bit short. Put a spacer over the post in the base and problem gone.
Do trim the leader back 22 holes and do not resort to the other fixes.
Commercial processors may have some difficulty with the long leader which was the industry standard in 1960. People forget.
Do trim the leader back 22 holes and do not resort to the other fixes.
Commercial processors may have some difficulty with the long leader which was the industry standard in 1960. People forget.
L39UK
Member
Sprocket holes appearing in film frame.
Sprocket holes appearing in film frame.
On the early Leica II's and III's the easiest way to fix the problem is to unscrew the small black screw in the centre of locking ring on the inside of the baseplate and reverse the small black washer that lies below the screw and then re-insert the screw into the washer and re-tighten.This raises the washer slightly, which then raises the film cassette when it is inserted in the camera and the baseplate is locked.This usually corrects the problem of the sprocket holes appearing on the film without having to insert any packing or spacer.
Sprocket holes appearing in film frame.
On the early Leica II's and III's the easiest way to fix the problem is to unscrew the small black screw in the centre of locking ring on the inside of the baseplate and reverse the small black washer that lies below the screw and then re-insert the screw into the washer and re-tighten.This raises the washer slightly, which then raises the film cassette when it is inserted in the camera and the baseplate is locked.This usually corrects the problem of the sprocket holes appearing on the film without having to insert any packing or spacer.