question about leica elmarit-m 28mm f/2.8 version 1

[hrryxgg]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] i am hoping someone can help me with this: [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] i have a M6TTL .58 magnification viewfinder and a new M10-p. [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] i recently bought a 1964 copy of the first version (red scale) Elmarit-M 28mm f/2.8 lens. [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] on both cameras, the in camera meter is overexposed when it says it is properly exposed, meaning, when i set the shutter speed and aperture to the place where the in camera meter says correct (the red dot in viewfinder), i find the shots are 3 stops or so overexposed. [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] do you know if there is a compatibility issue with this lens and these in camera meters for M6 and M10-p? [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] i did find this: [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] https://www.photo.net/discuss/threads/m6-ttl-elmarit-28mm-f2-8-compatibility.249386/ [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] also, on both cameras, the 28mm framelines do not appear unless i move the lever on the the front of the camera to the right and hold it in place. [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] curious what anyone knows or thinks? [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, helvetica, sans-serif] thank you so much [/FONT]

 

[Rayt]

I have this lens. The rear of the lens is rather deep so it blocks the light meter. You can use the lens on the M6TTL and M10 but you’ll need to meter manually. Also your lens probably is an earlier version which brings up 35mm framelines. You can have a repair tech modify the mount to bring up 28mm framelines.

 

[hrryxgg]

well that seems like a great answer!

do you find the lens to be great, or do you not use it much due to these limitations?

i am wondering if i should keep it and work with it or if it is just too much a pain?

how invasive is the modifcation to the mount to get 28mm framelines?

thank you again this is very helpful!

 

[hrryxgg]

also, i am finding that the metering is off in a somewhat predictable way -- meaning, if i meter using the light meter in the camera, and underexpose 3 shutter speed clicks or so, it seems to work. did you find similar?

 

[Rayt]

Yes you can compensate by adjusting the exposure but the error is not at a consistent 3 stops. You will notice when you focus closer the rear lens group moves forward causing the meter reading to change. I suppose you can leave the compensation at 3 stops and allow exposure latitude to handle the difference. The modification requires shaving off a bit of the mount so it triggers the proper framelines. I wouldn’t do it personally because i would use a 28mm finder anyway.

I find the lens to be just OK. It lacks the crispness of v3 and v4 Elmarits. One in nice condition especially yours in red scale and black paint focusing lock can fetch enough for a nice condition 28mm Summicron v1.

 

[hrryxgg]

i am finding you are spot on -- as i open the lens the exposure compensation needed is slightly greater, and when the lens is at its narrowest opening, the compensation needed is less.

this should not be changed by whichever ISO i choose, correct?

thank you

 

[Rayt]

The meter reading will change with focus no matter what iso you are using. If you are shooting color C41 print film you can err on overexposure and it’ll be ok. For your M10 you should err on the side of under exposure. Experiment and good luck.

 

[hrryxgg]

thank you, but i think i did not ask clearly what i had intended to ask.

in my experimenting with m10-p, i am finding a somewhat consistent scale of compensation needed along various aperture settings. more needed at f2.8 and less at f22.

my question is will that consistent scale change with a change in ISO from say 100 to 400 to 800?

i am guessing it should not, but i suppose i will experiment today at see....but thought you may know....

thank you again!

 

[hrryxgg]

this is when using the in the in camera light meter, of course.

i did discover that if you use the light meter in 'live view' it is accurate as it meters from the sensor and no compensation is required. an additional bonus of using 'live view' is that no framelines are required: what you see is what you get!