Question: using epoxy paint on cameras.

literiter

literiter

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Has anyone tried to use epoxy paint on cameras?

I have a old Moskva camera and a old Zeiss Super Ikonta that are in need of some kind of repainting. I tried all conventional paints, with primers and sanding the bare metal before application but I can easily remove the paint by scaping my fingernail across the surface. The old paint on these cameras was actually harder to take off.

I have even considered "black chrome".

Any ideas out there?? Much thanks.
 
Two thoughts. Firstly, brass is very difficult to paint. Have you tried using a self etch primer first? Even the slightest fingermark on brass will stop the paint adhering properly.

Any DIY type paint is not going to stand up very well to the handling a camera gets. Enamels are harder than some of the acrylics and gentle bakeing will improve the hardness. Most paints will take at least a month to cure properly.

Kim
 
I did my M2 again after peeling too easily. Now I did the whole surface with a rust-preventing car primer. Trouble is, it is also used as filler. Make a thin coating on the camera! Then I took regular black spray paint again. This time it does stick better. Not perfect but better.
 
Thank you Kim:
I have not used a self etch primer yet. This will be my next effort. Thank you.

Thank you Rob:
I have used a primer, cheap stuff from a spray can. Darned stuff came off too. I will try a better primer and see.

There is a supplier in the US that sells a two part epoxy paint, in matte, semi gloss and glossy. The colors include black.(If anyone is interested I will post the URL. ) You mix the paint then spray it on the proposed surface. I haven't used it, I have heard of no one else who has used it in this, or similar application. I can purchase in small quantities but at $60.00 US plus shipping it could be an expensive mistake.

The supplier suggested I remove the old paint then clean the surface very well. He told me to use a small sprayer, like one used for model airplanes etc.

Vincent
 
An Airbrush might work. It will depend on the "weight" of the pigment and paint. I would also check the specs on the paint. Most 2 part epoxy paints need breathing aparatus to apply. ;)

Kim
 
Micro Tools sells camera paint, and that might stick better. I've always just used automotive enamel though; If you bake it for about 12 hours, it hardens up nicely.

1. Use an air brush and thin the paint to about 50% strength.

2. Apply in several very thin coats. If you put it on all at once, it either won't harden or takes forever. First coat should be transluscent.

3. Bake between coats. No, you don't put it in an oven. Build a box big enough to hold the painted parts and install two 100-watt lightbulbs inside it. Drill a dime-sized hole in the top and bottom of each end to allow some of the heat to escape (so nothing melts) and to allow for air circulation. Put the parts in with the bulbs and turn them on for at least 12 hours. An old metal toolbox makes a great improvised baking oven (mount the lights in each end).
 
FallisPhoto said:
Micro Tools sells camera paint, and that might stick better. I've always just used automotive enamel though; If you bake it for about 12 hours, it hardens up nicely.

1. Use an air brush and thin the paint to about 50% strength.

2. Apply in several very thin coats. If you put it on all at once, it either won't harden or takes forever. First coat should be transluscent.

3. Bake between coats. No, you don't put it in an oven. Build a box big enough to hold the painted parts and install two 100-watt lightbulbs inside it. Drill a dime-sized hole in the top and bottom of each end to allow some of the heat to escape (so nothing melts) and to allow for air circulation. Put the parts in with the bulbs and turn them on for at least 12 hours. An old metal toolbox makes a great improvised baking oven (mount the lights in each end).
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Yes, thank you for this. I will do this as it sounds right to me to bake the paint. If it works, great. If not, its the epoxy paint idea.
 
literiter said:
Yes, thank you for this. I will do this as it sounds right to me to bake the paint. If it works, great. If not, its the epoxy paint idea.
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Forgot one: Do not use "Testor's" brand paint. It is designed to stick to plastic, not metal, and it is soft.
 
literiter said:
Yes, thank you for this. I will do this as it sounds right to me to bake the paint. If it works, great. If not, its the epoxy paint idea.
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Jesus, I forgot another one! Just before painting, go over brass with steel wool. No paint sticks to tarnish very well.
 
Be careful with camera paint as it is meant for the inside of a camera and also not for whole surfaces but fro thsoe points where the original paint of the cameras inside got worn off!
 
I would think that some of the gun paints at a place like Brownells might work well. The whole brass thing is what is throwing me off. Haven't painted much brass. I think they have different gloss levels.

Air dry, bad. Two-part, better. Baking, best. As a rule of thumb.

I've seen some aziridine crosslinked water-borne polyurethanes that we tough as heck.

Mark
 
The secret of painting brass is to use a good self etch primer. ;)

Kim

anselwannab said:
I would think that some of the gun paints at a place like Brownells might work well. The whole brass thing is what is throwing me off. Haven't painted much brass. I think they have different gloss levels.


Mark
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It's worth checking out this thread. Mike Pry got a great result using paint from Brownells. I would guess their paint is slightly more matt than, say, Shintaro's, but this means is less susceptible to surfacve flaws.

Shintaro, by the way, bakes his paint, but uses 2-pack for items that can't be backed.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39813&page=2&highlight=black+paint

Another paint thread:
http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/26341-m2-black-paint-repainted-myself.html
 
literiter said:
The old paint on these cameras was actually harder to take off.
The old paint was probably lacquer. It sticks better, is smoother and has a brighter finish, is very tough, but good lacquer is very hard to find anymore (because of health hazards).
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I received a product called Klasscote, epoxy paint system in matte. I applied it after some serious preparation, like removing the leather carefully with alcohol and a razor blade. I then cleaned the metal with ordinary paint remover and alcohol.

To give the metal a little "tooth" I scuffed it with 600 grit "wet and dry", again very carefully.

I mixed the Klasscote semi gloss (a two part system) and added a bit of thinner to it. Sprayed it on with a airbrush, in a very light coat, waited ten minutes and another light coat. I cleaned the airbrush carefully. Waited two days. I reapplied the leather and you can't tell it came off.

I'd use a mask designed for this stuff. I mean really.

Perfect, absolutely perfect. It won't come off. There is a flaw here and there but that is my fault. I am sorry I did not try the Brownells product however. It is likely just as good or the same. Checking out Brownells I think it may be less expensive.

Klasscote is quite expensive but used carefully, like in a airbrush, it will last it's shelf life probably.

We have a digital camera camera and asap (the batteries have failed it seems) I'll post an image of the job.
 
Hey,

Haven't used the epoxy paint myself, but I don't know if its the best solution. Maybe a softer type, or something more natural would suit the plastic of the Camera better. At any rate, this book is of great reference to specifically this kind of events.

Jason
 
I have heard, though I cannot vouch for it personally, that electrolysis -- reverse electroplating, as it were -- is a good way to prepare brass. It doesn't sound very likely to me, but I pass it on for what it is worth.

Cheers,

R.
 
I used reverse electrolysis to strip the chrome from the top and bottom plates of an Olympus 35RC in preparation for painting. The chrome did come off but quite a bit of the nickel remained. I used a self etching primer and enamel from a spray can and then baked the parts in an old toaster oven at it's lowest setting, around 200 degrees F, I think. You can see the results in the RFF forum for Olympus RF under the title "35RC has new clothes".

The paint seems to be stuck pretty well, but I would try a better quality automotive enamel next time.

Steve
 
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