Question: using epoxy paint on cameras.

Anyone know of an EU reseller of DuraCoat? Might be hard to get, we should vote for the right to own firearms here too
 
I bought a used 105 2.5 Nikkor with the black paint all chewed arount the nose, otherwise good with perfect glass and mechanics. Cheap.

I blend/sanded with 400 grit and brushed on the black from Micro tools. It is soft.

I got more agressive and removed all the original paint from the front end with a strip of wet/dry emery. Then Krylon spray paint from my local Ace Hardware, primer then gloss black. I let it dry a month although it was dry to the touch in 15 min. Car paint is the same. Krylon is nice because it has a fan rather than round spray and it is for outdoor stuff.

So far so good after two months. And it matches the rest of the lens to fool all but collectors with magnifying glasses.

I did try Emron car paint which is two part on a Leicaflex. It did not hold up.

EPA has banned decent paint so we suffer.
 
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I always use a hood and to prevent wear on the front, outside edge of all my hoods, I use 1/8 to 1/4 inch wide skateboard tape. Works great also to screw-on/off the hood.
 
Just to resurrect this topic, has any EU based country provide a decent ,working camera touch up paint? Got an SLR that would benefit from a bit of tlc here.
 
I didn't read the entire thread, so someone may already have pointed to:
http://www.micro-tools.de/en/Paint-oxid/

I don't know how durable those are, but for smaller touch ups, should be ok.

Regarding full repaint on brass... I did a two step reverse electrolysis, one bath for chrome and a second for nickel. Removing those, I mean. Then, after filling dents I used a two part epoxy primer and finally a two part automotive quality black paint. It looks nice still...

I can write the details in case someone's interested.
 
Please do Joakim. This is a subject about which many of us still have much to learn. Photos would be appreciated, too.
 
From what I've read, there are many in this forum who are a lot more experienced than I am in this area, so I'm not really the one to answer questions... But here's what I did.

To remove the chrome, I used sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and stainless steel for the reverse electrolysis. Just do some searching and you will find instructions - here for example: http://forum.caswellplating.com/electroplating-questions/7239-removing-chrome.html#post37660

Next, to remove the nickel revealed under the chrome, use sulphuric acid for the electrolyte (pour some out of a discarded car battery if you have one) and lead for the cathode. Read here for instructions: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/removing-nickel-plating-brass-175393/#post1066620

Be careful. Make sure you read about the dangers involved and do the proper thing with the waste when you're done.

Now you're down to brass with only residual nickel and chrome. You can sand off the remaining bits. I do think some of the pieces are welded, so don't sand too hard. Also some smaller bits, like levers, aren't brass - so don't expect them to look like the covers after sanding.

After knocking out dents and filling damages (I used regular PP100 from Plastic Padding), clean off with thinner and figure out a way to rig the pieces for painting.

I used primer and paint from Tikkurila, because that's what I could get hold of and it sounded good :).

It's been a few years since I did this, but I think I used "Temacoat Primer", found here: http://www.tikkurila.com/industrial...ces/metal_products/temacoat_primer.3318.shtml It is applied very thin. Hardly a cover, more like something for the actual paint to adhere to. And, to quote the guy at the store, "it dries in a swineblink" and although he spoke swedish, I have no idea what he meant. I got the message anyway.

And then "Temadur 20" on top, which is the black polyurethane paint. http://www.tikkurila.com/industrial...surfaces/metal_products/temadur_20.3318.shtml Both were sprayed on of course, using a conventional spray gun for larger surfaces (not some dinky airbrush). For the white/red lettering, use regular acrylic paint. You can be rather generous there if you wipe off the excess quickly using a dampened fingertip.

The paint I chose is very durable. Only in the most vulnerable places it has come to show brass. Other places have chipped off after taking hits. So don't expect this solution to show "beautiful brassing" within at least a year or so.

I don't have pictures from the process, sorry. I'll post a picture of the camera. I just have to take one first ;-)
 
When I was young and ..., well, young, I had a Zenit 11 which paint was gone. So I bought an epoxy clay and medical charcoal. Mixed them and painted the camera with it. The result - nice black mat and fine grain ( from the charcoal), which helped my grip when my hands were sweating . I sold the camera years ago , but it served me well a long time.
 
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