Questions about C-41 Developing

Pirate

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Just got my C-41 chem kit in the mail (powder). Got the Unicolor K-2 Powdered kit, catalog #10124, from Freestyle. This is a 2 Liter kit, doesn't look like you can split it up into two 1 Liter sets.

In the Processing instructions, it says to pre-soak the film. I have not done that yet. Is this just filling the tank with plain water for the prescribed time? It says for 1 minute at 102 degrees. Does it need to be that hot? Is this temp normal for C-41 processing?

Step 2 also says to perform at 102 degrees. Does it need to be?

Step 2 again, it gives a time of 3.5 minutes. I'm used to standard Black and White. Is there no table to follow that adjusts time by film type? Are they all the same because they are C-41 emulsions?

Blix - is this the same as Stop-Bath for Black and White? Can I think of it this way and be ok?

Thanks for the help, I hope I enjoy this as much as the standard Black and White developing!
 
No, everything is different from B&W... The time is the same always... It will be a bit longer (some seconds) for pushing, but that's unusual...

Follow the instructions carefully and forget about B&W... For best results temperature should be really kept stable, with a lot more care than when developing B&W...

Cheers,

Juan
 
Follow the temps and times. The developer is the most critical for temperature. Color processes are hotter than B&W.

Blix is the bleach fixer. It eliminates the undeveloped silver (the fix part) as well as the developed silver (the bleach part). What remains is the dye image.

The nice thing about C-41 is the process is the same regardless of film type--that is why a processor can process all C-41 films together regardless of manufacturer or film speed.
 
Just got my C-41 chem kit in the mail (powder). Got the Unicolor K-2 Powdered kit, catalog #10124, from Freestyle. This is a 2 Liter kit, doesn't look like you can split it up into two 1 Liter sets.

In the Processing instructions, it says to pre-soak the film. I have not done that yet. Is this just filling the tank with plain water for the prescribed time? It says for 1 minute at 102 degrees. Does it need to be that hot? Is this temp normal for C-41 processing?

Step 2 also says to perform at 102 degrees. Does it need to be?

Step 2 again, it gives a time of 3.5 minutes. I'm used to standard Black and White. Is there no table to follow that adjusts time by film type? Are they all the same because they are C-41 emulsions?

I don't pre-soak anymore, some recommend it, some don't. You'll find some stuff about it on Large Format websites iirc. For me it didn't make a difference.

The drum has to be the same temperature you choose to develop at, otherwise the plastic will cool down the temperature of the chemicals very quickly.

You develop for 3.5 minutes, but after a few rolls I'd extend the time by a few seconds. There are tables on the internet. If you want to push, you typically add 30 seconds per stop. But it should be mentioned in the manual.

You can process ISO 100 / 200 / 400 rolls in one drum and still only use the recommend time if you've shot the films at their recommended ISO. ISO 400 films will exhaust your developer much quicker though.

martin
 
Place your chemistry in a bath (tub with water) and do your best to keep all the chemistry at the same Temp. If you can keep it to 1 degree it will help with quality. When you store the remaining, unused chemistry, if you're using plastic bottles, squeeze the air out of the bottles until the liquid comes to the top and cap the bottle with as little air inside as possible. That will extend the life of your chemistry.
 
Sorry I missed all this.. got caught up in the fun!!!....

Yes, 102 F. degrees.

I don't have much to work with here, so.... I have the chemicals split in 1 liter bottles. I put those in the sink and fill the sink with the hot tap water. Wait for them to get warm, fill a small tub with hot water and let it sit and cool - this becomes the pre-soak. When everything is warm, I do the pre-soak, developer and blix, then judge by feel on the running water so it's about 100 degrees and let it run through the can for the Wash cycle, then room temp for the stabilizer and dry at room temp which is about 72 F.

I did a test roll from a new roll of Fujicolor Superia and they came out great, so I did that for the Paris rolls I had. All the rolls of my Paris 120 shots were way past expired film but I took the chance shooting it anyway.
One roll came out perfect and it expired in 1998! The other rolls must not have been stored well, or the chemicals just gave out. The good roll was AGFA Optima 100. Here's the best pic from the roll:

40561_1399708109612_1139559599_30958103_5252886_n.jpg
 
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