Questions about Canon A1

wacky941

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I'm a new member here and if you saw my introduction one of the things that I noted was that I was very spoiled by the ease of use when using my Canon AE-1 Program in the PROGRAM mode which later continued on with my A1. I was so spoiled with it that I never even tried to use it in manual mode which leads into my dilemma.

After moving into the digital age which eventually led to my Canon 60D, I really began to explore the creative side of the manual mode and now that I am returning to using my film cameras, I find myself confused.

This is a quote from the user manual:
Manual Override

You may have occasion to wish to cancel the A-1's AE capabilities to control exposure, both aperture and shutter speed, by yourself. This will be the case if vou are using a separate exposure meter, if vou wish to correct exposure in unusual lighting conditions or in flash photography, or if you want to control exposure for creative effects.

manual1.jpg
With the A-1, this is a simple process. Using an FD lens, first disengage the aperture ring from the "A" mark. Set the AE mode selector to Tv. The Av setting is useless. Set the aperture by turning the lens aperture ring, and set the shutter speed by turning the AT dial. When you press the exposure preview switch or the shutter button halfway to preview the exposure, the data displayed in the viewfinder will be the same as if the camera was in shutter-speed priority AE.
You will see the shutter speed you have set on the AT dial. The aperture displayed is that that the camera would select on Auto. Although the aperture you have manually set on the aperture ring is not displayed, it is at that aperture that your picture will be exposed when you press the shutter button. You will also see the red "M" inside the viewfinder to indicate that you are in the manual mode.

Lens1.jpg Lens2.jpg
To operate the camera manually using an FL lens or any other lens without a full aperture signal pin, set the AE mode selector to Tv. With these lenses you must always set the aperture by turning the lens aperture ring.
In the case of these lenses, the digital readout is unreliable, and it is better to cut it out altogether by switching off the viewfinder display lever. You must rely on your own experience for setting the exposure.

With an FD lens, if you set the AE selector to Av instead of Tv while the lens is away from the "A" mark, the digital readout win show the aperture you have set on the AT dial plus the corresponding camera-selected shutter speed as in aperture priority AE along with "M" for manual aperture setting. Although you are no longer in manual override, it is possible to make an exposure correction by setting the lens aperture ring to a different aperture than that on the AT dial. Exposure will be made at the aperture set on the lens aperture ring and the camera selected shutter speed
So, it appears to me that the camera is operating as described however, what's confusing me is the idea that in my mind, if I am in manual mode and I adjust the aperture the lens should respond by darkening or lightening depending on rotation of the ring and at the same time I would expect the metering to display accordingly but it doesn't. According to the quote as I interpret it, the internal meter will show whatever shutter speed I have it set to and the aperture setting that the camera would automatically set to if it were in that mode however, in reality it will actually shoot at whatever aperture I have it set to according to the aperture adjust ring. My question is first, am I interpreting it correctly and second, would I set the aperture adjust ring to the number displayed in the meter because that is what the camera is telling me that the proper selection should be?

Part of the reason that I am confused is because all my lenses react the same way except one. The one single lens that reacts differently is a 500mm telephoto lens that adjust the aperture and light metering exactly as I would expect and that is because it is a non Canon lens and the adjust ring is six inches away from the camera body.

Like I said, I'm confused and am in need of a sanity check.

Thank you in advance for all the help.
 
It's normal that you are confused as the A-1 "manual" mode is not really manual and cumbersome, have you thought about getting a real FD manual body like a F-1 or even an humble FTB? They are good cameras, actually I prefer my FTBn to my A-1.
 
I like the FT QL and FTb cameras too, but nothing wrong w/ an A1 either. Just use the AE lock, and you basically have a defacto manual camera. The controls are a little fiddly to use on an A1 for that though. The camera is a lot lighter than an FTb too, but you can't beat the build quality of an FT model SLR (sorta like a Canon Leicaflex). In the end, the camera isn't that important once you become familiar w/ it, it's about your lenses and skill.
 
The A1 viewfinder tells you what aperture to use, not what aperture you have set in manual mode. So, you set the shutter speed you want, look through the finder and see what aperture it says, then set that aperture on the lens.

The image through the viewfinder will not lighten or darken when you change the aperture. This is because it keeps the aperture wide open until you press the shutter release. Right before the shutter opens, the lens stops down to whatever aperture you have set.
 
The A1 viewfinder tells you what aperture to use, not what aperture you have set in manual mode. So, you set the shutter speed you want, look through the finder and see what aperture it says, then set that aperture on the lens.

The image through the viewfinder will not lighten or darken when you change the aperture. This is because it keeps the aperture wide open until you press the shutter release. Right before the shutter opens, the lens stops down to whatever aperture you have set.

Yes this is what I hate about the A1, basically it's never in a real "manual" mode, you just disconnect the automatic control of the diaphgram.

Also the lightmeter pattern of the camera is very unfortunately (I think it's buttom biased) in comparison to the FTB partial metering.

In short the A1 is the least liked of my FD bodies, I just shot a film and since then I still have to reload.
 
The A1 viewfinder tells you what aperture to use, not what aperture you have set in manual mode. So, you set the shutter speed you want, look through the finder and see what aperture it says, then set that aperture on the lens. The image through the viewfinder will not lighten or darken when you change the aperture. This is because it keeps the aperture wide open until you press the shutter release. Right before the shutter opens, the lens stops down to whatever aperture you have set.
That's pretty much what I thought the answer would be but, even though I've had this particular camera for almost twenty years, I never tried to do any manual shoots with it, I always shot in Program mode.
I just need to play with it a bit and get used to it.

I bought another Black Body AE-1 Program and I should be receiving it next week. I've had three others in the past and the black body was always my favorite. I do remember that the two are way different when looking through the viewfinder.

Thank you.
 
the A1 is a bit cumbersome in manual mode but aperture priority is great, I always shoot on aperture priority with all my cameras if they have it. The only time I shoot in manual is when I disagree with the meter, if when shooting manual all you are doing is following the meter better off shooting in aperture or shutter priority.
good luck enjoy!
 
... I was very spoiled by the ease of use when using my Canon AE-1 Program in the PROGRAM mode which later continued on with my A1. I was so spoiled with it that I never even tried to use it in manual mode which leads into my dilemma ...


well, a good picture is a good picture, auto or otherwise :)
 
The A1 operates great in auto mode once you follow the EV compensation guidelines on the user manual. Meter is very accurate. For manual mode it is a bit slower but not "impossible" as some people say.
 
I don't see a problem to use the A1 in manual mode. When I use a rangefinder, I set the aperture on the lens and the time on the time dial thats typically on the right shoulder of the camera. With the A1 I set the aperture on the lens and the time on the time dial that is on the right shoulder of the camera. Where is the difference?

I have an A1 in a drawer somewhere. Don't use it anymore because it developed that typical awful shutter sound.
 
I don't see a problem to use the A1 in manual mode. When I use a rangefinder, I set the aperture on the lens and the time on the time dial thats typically on the right shoulder of the camera. With the A1 I set the aperture on the lens and the time on the time dial that is on the right shoulder of the camera. Where is the difference?

I have an A1 in a drawer somewhere. Don't use it anymore because it developed that typical awful shutter sound.

You can fix that by just using WD40 at the right spot. I've posted the diagram with the exact place to put it, back in 1998 or 1997. I can' find it now but this page explains exactly what I did:

http://jetbutterfly.web.fc2.com/camera/e_squeak.html
 
I shot a couple rolls through my A1 and my AE-1 Program to compare the two. I really like the way the AE-1 Program feels, the A1, I really like too but I need to work with it some more to get used to the feel of it in its pseudo manual mode. Going with my interpretation and the clarification I have received from you guys, I'm becoming much more comfortable with the way that the A1 operates, thank you for the sanity check and clarification.

One thing that is blatantly obvious to me is how simple the AE-1 Program is to use in manual mode compared to the A1.

The pictures came out great too by the way.
 
Nothing wrong with having different cameras for different situations. Keep the A-1 as your Program User model, and use the AE-1P as your manual model. And may they not squeal!

PF

ps: It's really the lenses that make the Canon line so good.
 
Nothing wrong with having different cameras for different situations. Keep the A-1 as your Program User model, and use the AE-1P as your manual model. And may they not squeal!

PF

ps: It's really the lenses that make the Canon line so good.

Definitely good idea, I never thought about that.

My A1 was squealing not too long ago, luckily for me there is a camera repair place not too far from me that still works on the classics.
 
What tom.w.bn said exactly. I can't understand these comments that The A-1 doesn't have a real manual mode. Let's say I'm shooting a meterless camera. I read my hand held light meter. I pick a shutter speed I like and set it on the camera. I read the corresponding aperture off the meter and set it on the camera. Now I take my A-1, I pick a shutter speed I like and set it on the camera. I read the corresponding aperture off the meter display in the viewfinder and set it on the camera. In the first case I read the aperture off the hand held meter. In the second case I read the aperture off the meter in the camera. It's exactly the same process!
 
What tom.w.bn said exactly. I can't understand these comments that The A-1 doesn't have a real manual mode. Let's say I'm shooting a meterless camera. I read my hand held light meter. I pick a shutter speed I like and set it on the camera. I read the corresponding aperture off the meter and set it on the camera. Now I take my A-1, I pick a shutter speed I like and set it on the camera. I read the corresponding aperture off the meter display in the viewfinder and set it on the camera. In the first case I read the aperture off the hand held meter. In the second case I read the aperture off the meter in the camera. It's exactly the same process!


Wait, what? Doesn't the A1 have a meter built into it? I thought it was the first camera with LED displays.
 
Wait, what? Doesn't the A1 have a meter built into it? I thought it was the first camera with LED displays.

It was the first SLR with a numerical LED display. But in manual mode it loses all and any time coupling - the LED display shows the time recommended by the exposure meter, which you have to set on the dial, with no in-finder confirmation as to what you have set or whether it matches the display. The closest to a eye-on-the-finder manual mode you can do is set one time, memorise it, and control the aperture so that the display matches your memory (and hope you do not accidentally move the knob) - but at that, it is on a level with the Examat and other crude 1960 TTL hacks.
 
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