btgc
Veteran
Have run across two Zorki's - 4 and 5, both expose problem with Bulb and slower speeds - curtains are lazy to close. In faster speeds things appear to happen as should - so I judge from what I saw and heard (right, specific focal plane cloth shutter sound).
From what I see in sticky threads, it looks that I'll be able to work'n'lube mechanical part and everything should work, right ? No Jupiter lenses, just I50 and I24m, both piecies for about $35. I'd like to have different focal length than normal 50mm, rather longer 80-135mm which isn't possible with fixed lens RF's.
What do you think ? I know, everything can be fixed, just wanted some confirmation that this falls in DIY area.
From what I see in sticky threads, it looks that I'll be able to work'n'lube mechanical part and everything should work, right ? No Jupiter lenses, just I50 and I24m, both piecies for about $35. I'd like to have different focal length than normal 50mm, rather longer 80-135mm which isn't possible with fixed lens RF's.
What do you think ? I know, everything can be fixed, just wanted some confirmation that this falls in DIY area.
wolves3012
Veteran
All FEDs and Zorkis are do-able with a bit of DIY skills, some care and a few basic tools...
There's a sticky on the Zorki 4 and (somewhere in this section) there's one on the Zorki 6, which is similar to the Zorki 5.
Sticking curtains on these cameras is a sure sign that a thorough CLA is needed. Check the curtain tensions afterwards too (there's a sticky on that too!).
There's a sticky on the Zorki 4 and (somewhere in this section) there's one on the Zorki 6, which is similar to the Zorki 5.
Sticking curtains on these cameras is a sure sign that a thorough CLA is needed. Check the curtain tensions afterwards too (there's a sticky on that too!).
btgc
Veteran
Thanks wolves ! I'll explore market a bit, maybe I'll be able to get some cosmetically nicer samples together with J8 and if not, will consider taking this and just work on them. Sometimes accelerated purchase is fine, sometimes not. Thanks for support, seems that I have got overall impression...that I need one 
TVphotog
Television Grunt
I would take the 4 over the five, just cause I don't like bottom loading... personal choice. If you can, look for a Zorki 6. The 6 is just the five with a hinged back. You may need to add some felt or something similar to the channels the back rests in to prevent light leaks. I have a couple of 6s and they are great cameras. The best thing the 4 has is the large, bright, easy to use viewfinder. The biggest advantage of the 5/6 is the longer rangefinder base. It allows for more accurate focusing. Unfortunately, I feel that the viewfinder is not as bright as the 4's. Either way, all thee are a pleasure to use. I did the thread on the Zorki 6 CLA, so I will see if I can top it for you.
btgc
Veteran
Thanks TVphotog, seems that foum's wisdom "each Zorki model complements other" is so true ! I didn't feel that Zorki 4 has large VF, Electro35 has large and some say that there are others, even larger and brighter, though I have to admit - both 4 and 5 had me feeling comfortable, just nice to see through and focus.
I'm just not sure if they are good for price asking. With ongoing CLA and one eveready case being damaged, not quite sure. One lens raises questions too, I recall that in end position focus marks not quite match marks on opposite part of lens. Maybe I just have to look and see how look other samples.
Maybe I'm just talking myself off another cameras ?
I'm just not sure if they are good for price asking. With ongoing CLA and one eveready case being damaged, not quite sure. One lens raises questions too, I recall that in end position focus marks not quite match marks on opposite part of lens. Maybe I just have to look and see how look other samples.
Maybe I'm just talking myself off another cameras ?
wolves3012
Veteran
Just a little word of caution on the Zorki 5...you must NOT wind or fire the shutter without a lens on the body, unless you press the RF sensor arm in a little. If you do, you will very likely damage the speed-setting mechanism. If you take one apart you'll see why - the setting pin can foul the RF mechanism when the sensor arm is fully out (as it will be with no lens) and something will give way!
Regarding the VF, the Zorki 4 is bigger and brighter but the 5 and 6 have excellent RFs.....IF they are clean. I've cleaned them on my 5 and 6 and the difference was quite startling. They are lower magnification than the one on the Zorki 4 but I find the clarity and contrast is probably the best amongst my FSUs (and yes, the others have been cleaned too).
Regarding the VF, the Zorki 4 is bigger and brighter but the 5 and 6 have excellent RFs.....IF they are clean. I've cleaned them on my 5 and 6 and the difference was quite startling. They are lower magnification than the one on the Zorki 4 but I find the clarity and contrast is probably the best amongst my FSUs (and yes, the others have been cleaned too).
btgc
Veteran
wow...that's exactly was guy did to show me shutter at different speeds - wound and fired without lens, without pressing arm. Mhm, how I can check for sure if speed setting mechanism still works - you mean one will need to measure exact times to know it is not broken or mechanism will not select speeds at all ?
wolves3012
Veteran
If the pin breaks all the speeds would sound the same and the curtains would move together, so no exposure. That's the most likely symptoms anyway...
btgc
Veteran
as far I saw (without lens), at fast speeds curtains moved fast with specific sound, at slower or buld - missed to close. Seems they work, just are sticky due to age.