Quick help w. ebay return decision, please

[pagpow]

Got an Ikonta 521/16 (with the red dot advance/double exposure prevention mechanism). It's got a Novar Anastigmat 3.5 lens in a Prontor (?) shutter; no name shows but it goes to 300. It has two metal loops at the edges of the top deck for a neckstrap. The original folding frame has been removed and replaced w. a KONTUR 6x6 finder. The finder and the shutter were the main attractions. Camera has some pitting that was very well documented by seller.

Here's the issue. Camera was described as in perfect working condition.
On inspection everything is as described with two exceptions.

1) the lens in front of the shutter looks a bit cloudy, not so much the rear component (tho I must admit reinspection during day looks clearer)

2) the lens does not erect as my others do (yes have a few more of these nettars and ikontas). it does not snap open as neatly as the others, it does not click in place without help, and it can get so one side is erect, while the other is not. With assistance, it can be put in place so it is rigid.
However, in say 20 tries to lock it in, it will also allow to lens to tilt down (remediable). None of my others have this play.

Seller has been contacted and immediately offered a return and refund.

Questions:

1) Is the behavior of the front standard normal for some models and/or can it be fixed?

2) If the lens is actually cloudy, is the front element easily unscrewed and cleanable?

3) Other than the obvious test of shooting a roll, any other diagnostics you suggest to determine whether to return or keep?

Thanks.

 

[FallisPhoto]

1. Try flushing out the hinges of the struts with oil. Sometimes that happens because of gunk in there. Also, oil the hinges of the front door and all the joints. Also, check to see if the chrome in the hinges has blistered. If it has a pitting issue, some or all of this is probably what has happened. If you find corrosion in the strut hinges, you need to use an acid solvent to get it out. Then flush the acid out and lube it with a medium weight oil.

2. Yes, the front element is easily unscrewed, with the proper tools (you'll need a lens wrench and sometimes a friction wrench), as are the other elements.

3. (a) Check the bellows.
(b) Set the shutter for 1 second and time it.
(c) Do it again, and make sure it is opening and closing.
(d) Check that the aperture iris is opening and closing as you adjust the f/stop.
(e) The "loops at the edges of the top frame deck" are not for a neck strap, but a hand strap. The neck strap attached to the case.
(f) Does it need repainting and/or does the leatherette need replacing?
(g) Is the red window really red? If not, it needs replacing.
(h) Are the struts straight?
(i) If it has a self-timer, DO NOT CHECK IT! Always wait until after the shutter has been CLAd before using/testing the self-timer.

 

[Joe Vitessa]

Certainly doesn't sound like "perfect condition" to me. Unless you feel like tinkering as FallisPhoto describes, I'd return it. You might also mention these shortcomings to the seller and see if he'd be willing to issue a partial refund. That worked for me one time on a Baldalux folder.

Joe

 

[pagpow]

Thanks,

FallisPhoto -- didn't know about the strut hinges and that sound possible given how it is opening, I'll check it. Thanks, too, for the checklist -- I've learned the hard way about the self-timer on prior cameras. Won't be going there.

nikonwebmaster -- so you don't think I ought to tinker w. somebody else's camera, eh?
No worries about mentioning it -- it actually made me think -- although the camera is paid for -- what limits I should observe in checking its function if I end up returning it. Appreciate it.

Joe Vitessa -- I did mention the shortcomings with a view to seeing whether that offer was forthcoming as I, too, have sometimes experienced. Seller seems to prefer a return if I am dissatisfied. His option, so I want to take some care about whether I want to spend two way shipping for nothing or whether this is salvageable.

Thanks all.