johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Additional ignorant question: tanks needed for both B&W and C41, or is swapping okay?
seifadiaz
Established
Just wondering, do you need to use a separate developing tank for colour and b&w?
youngmrcurtis
Member
I use the same tank for both.
jtzordon
clicking away
How do you dispose of the chemicals afterward?
scottyb70
Well-known
I have both the c-41 kit and e-6 by unicolor. iIused the e-6 with successful results. The manufacturer is only 20mins from my house so I was able to talk to the owner myself. He said the most important part in keeping the temperature spot on is the developer.
You should follow their instructions because they have time and tested them. I used a patterson tank for the e-6 the developer was at 102 f before pouring into the tank. The other chemicals were in a hot water bath. My other chemicals were off about 3-4 degress and I didn't have a problem. It is really cool when you see e-6 transparencies developed.
You should follow their instructions because they have time and tested them. I used a patterson tank for the e-6 the developer was at 102 f before pouring into the tank. The other chemicals were in a hot water bath. My other chemicals were off about 3-4 degress and I didn't have a problem. It is really cool when you see e-6 transparencies developed.
martin s
Well-known
Usually at the junk yard for a small fee.
I use the same bottles for everything.
Here's my first roll I developed with the Tetenal Kit. It's Fuji NPC 160 (ei 160), expired about half a decade ago. They do have a tint I 'corrected' in some (Lightrooms Auto-WB), Portra NC doesn't exhibit this though, it's definitely the film.
Cheers, martin
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t.s.k.
Hooked on philm
Thanks for the thread and short tutorial Martin.
I have to seriously consider this in the near future.
Wondering if anyone knows the shelf life of the the kit before and after mixing.
Are c-41 chemicals more/less prone to oxidation than d76?
I have to seriously consider this in the near future.
Wondering if anyone knows the shelf life of the the kit before and after mixing.
Are c-41 chemicals more/less prone to oxidation than d76?
petronius
Veteran
I have some experience with long stored C-41 chemicals:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63614&page=2
filmfan
Well-known
I find it very easy to get my C41 film developed at Target for $0.95 per roll, but I am going to try this out anyways. Thanks for the "push".
t.s.k.
Hooked on philm
Ah, thank you petronius. The thread and your blog is most helpful.
MatthewThompson
Well-known
Anyone know a supplier in Canada? I've done a lot of searching for home C41/RA4 and it's got to be easier buying handguns.
martin s
Well-known
No problem, don't use my description as a tutorial though. I wrote it from memory and there are a few more things to be considered (increase time if more than 4 rolls, add 30 seconds for push process, ... ).
Petronius it was because of your thread that I tried it in the first place, so thanks for starting it. After the first roll of NPC I bought a box of Portra, by the way, I'll be shooting medium format color for a while now.
martin
bobby_novatron
Photon Collector
MatthewThompson, re: supplier in Canada
I live in western Canada, and ordered from B&H in NYC. It was $69 USD, and with the strong Canadian dollar, things worked out about the same. Shipping was $30, so I bought a bunch of film to make the shipping costs more reasonable. Point is: it's no big deal to get the Tetenal kit in Canada. UPS straight to my door, with a modest customs/tax fee.
As a C-41 newbie, I wanted to mention that today was my first batch of home-developed colour film. I was really impressed with how easy it was. If it wasn't for the picky temperature monitoring, I'd say it's almost easier than doing B&W.
A couple observations (and granted, these are only my opinion):
#1. The chemicals for C41 are nastier than B&W. Just a subjective feeling. I've developed hundreds of B&W rolls through the years with Kodak and Ilford chems, etc., but never had such a reaction to these fluids. The smell in my laundry room was so harsh I found myself holding my breath and coughing, despite having a fan blowing and the windows open. The smell lingered for hours afterswards, as well.
#2. I think it's important to dispose of these C41 chemicals properly once they're exhausted. This isn't like pouring B&W developer down the sink when you're done. The Tetenal kit plainly states that the chemicals are toxic and possibly carcinogenic.
Then again, I breathed in diesel fumes on the street today and ate a charbroiled hamburger at dinner time.
I live in western Canada, and ordered from B&H in NYC. It was $69 USD, and with the strong Canadian dollar, things worked out about the same. Shipping was $30, so I bought a bunch of film to make the shipping costs more reasonable. Point is: it's no big deal to get the Tetenal kit in Canada. UPS straight to my door, with a modest customs/tax fee.
As a C-41 newbie, I wanted to mention that today was my first batch of home-developed colour film. I was really impressed with how easy it was. If it wasn't for the picky temperature monitoring, I'd say it's almost easier than doing B&W.
A couple observations (and granted, these are only my opinion):
#1. The chemicals for C41 are nastier than B&W. Just a subjective feeling. I've developed hundreds of B&W rolls through the years with Kodak and Ilford chems, etc., but never had such a reaction to these fluids. The smell in my laundry room was so harsh I found myself holding my breath and coughing, despite having a fan blowing and the windows open. The smell lingered for hours afterswards, as well.
#2. I think it's important to dispose of these C41 chemicals properly once they're exhausted. This isn't like pouring B&W developer down the sink when you're done. The Tetenal kit plainly states that the chemicals are toxic and possibly carcinogenic.
Then again, I breathed in diesel fumes on the street today and ate a charbroiled hamburger at dinner time.
Mike Richards
Well-known
Tetenal C41 at 86F
Tetenal C41 at 86F
Based mainly upon this thread, I got a Tetenal kit and just used it for the first time. My aim was to establish a procedure similar to my traditional B&W processing. I noted in the instructions that Tetenal provided an alternate processing method for 86 degrees Fahrenheit, so decided to try that on the first roll. The method calls for 8 minutes CD and 6 minutes blix. I like the longer times (less susceptible to minor timing errors) as well as the lower temperature (easier to get to and maintain). I'll post a scan of the instructions. I use stainless steel reels, so the method was as follows:
Heated beakers with plain water, CD, blix, and stabilizer in a dishpan with hot tap water to 88F. Poured in the water and inverted 15 times slowly to warm up the tank and film. Then proceeded with the CD and blix -- each with 5 initial inversions and 3 inversions every 30 seconds. For the rinse, I used warm tap water for fill/invert/discard 5 times, then fill/invert n times/discard, where n = 2, 5, 10, 20, 20. This took about 5 minutes. Then stabilizer for 15 inversions. Then 1 wipe with a squeegee and dry.
I was pleasantly surprised with the results; sample attached. I was even more surprised when I found out that I had screwed up the development time. I didn't have my reading glasses with me when I did the work, and misread the development time. So I only developed for 6 minutes. I noticed it should have been 8 minutes later when I read the instruction sheet with my reading glasses on.
My sincere thanks to Martin and the others who have contributed to this thread. Hope this helps anyone interested in C41 processing.
Tetenal C41 at 86F
Based mainly upon this thread, I got a Tetenal kit and just used it for the first time. My aim was to establish a procedure similar to my traditional B&W processing. I noted in the instructions that Tetenal provided an alternate processing method for 86 degrees Fahrenheit, so decided to try that on the first roll. The method calls for 8 minutes CD and 6 minutes blix. I like the longer times (less susceptible to minor timing errors) as well as the lower temperature (easier to get to and maintain). I'll post a scan of the instructions. I use stainless steel reels, so the method was as follows:
Heated beakers with plain water, CD, blix, and stabilizer in a dishpan with hot tap water to 88F. Poured in the water and inverted 15 times slowly to warm up the tank and film. Then proceeded with the CD and blix -- each with 5 initial inversions and 3 inversions every 30 seconds. For the rinse, I used warm tap water for fill/invert/discard 5 times, then fill/invert n times/discard, where n = 2, 5, 10, 20, 20. This took about 5 minutes. Then stabilizer for 15 inversions. Then 1 wipe with a squeegee and dry.
I was pleasantly surprised with the results; sample attached. I was even more surprised when I found out that I had screwed up the development time. I didn't have my reading glasses with me when I did the work, and misread the development time. So I only developed for 6 minutes. I noticed it should have been 8 minutes later when I read the instruction sheet with my reading glasses on.
My sincere thanks to Martin and the others who have contributed to this thread. Hope this helps anyone interested in C41 processing.
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dazedgonebye
Veteran
Ok,
Going to have to try this. 35mm is cheap and easy to get developed, but 120 requires a drive.
Anyone have Ektar examples to show?
Going to have to try this. 35mm is cheap and easy to get developed, but 120 requires a drive.
Anyone have Ektar examples to show?
dazedgonebye
Veteran
Anyone know where to find the liquid 1 liter kit?
martin s
Well-known
I'm glad more and more are trying it. I'm through with my first 1l Kit, I didn't exhaust the chemicals but decided to stop using them at roll 20 (rollfilm) and 5 rolls of 35mm.
I have some Ektar but didn't shoot any yet. I can supply some examples in probably two or three weeks.
In Germany Foto Impexx sells the Liquid Tetenal Kit. Probably not worth the shipping costs though.
martin
I have some Ektar but didn't shoot any yet. I can supply some examples in probably two or three weeks.
In Germany Foto Impexx sells the Liquid Tetenal Kit. Probably not worth the shipping costs though.
martin
Gradskater
Well-known
ektar
ektar
This is ektar in the unicolor 1L C-41 kit. I got about 30 good rolls from my last batch (rated for 15). The chemicals are kept in airtight containers. Very simple, easy as black and white like everyone is saying. I wear latex gloves and work near an open window.
I was tired of the local developers scratching my film, so I decided to do it myself.
ektar
This is ektar in the unicolor 1L C-41 kit. I got about 30 good rolls from my last batch (rated for 15). The chemicals are kept in airtight containers. Very simple, easy as black and white like everyone is saying. I wear latex gloves and work near an open window.
I was tired of the local developers scratching my film, so I decided to do it myself.
j_fletcher
Member
Martin, great thread, thanks for sharing! I'm going to buy a kit and give it a go. Excellent colours in your results by the way. Now where did i stash that colour film...
j_fletcher
Member
Would anyone want this thread as a sticky? I thing the how-to picture guide looks really useful. (Just a thought.)