R vs R2a (or do I just have GAS )

[Paulo]

Hey all, I purchased a Bessa R here in N.Z with the Cv 28 3.5 and added an ultron 1.7, I love this camera (and Lenses) it's great But i cant help wishing I had Aperture priority mode as on the R2a , I'm a pretty slow shooter, my other 35mm camera is an old F3 with primes. I used A priority mode on this quite a lot too. Thing is there are certain situations where I kinda miss the moment as I am re framing and re metering to match, Maybe it's a skill thing. Maybe I just need more time for this to become second nature? I do try to pre focus and pre - meter when possible. I was wondering what peoples experiences of switching from the R to the r2a (or R3a) were?
Did life seem better because of Apeture Priority mode? more hits than misses? , less missed shots? Anyone want to swap a mint R for an R2a 😉 ?

Thanks for bearing with me. I would be interested in opinions

Paul

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some 35mm snaps
http://paulo70.smugmug.com/Photography

 

[amateriat]

My personal opinion on the advantages of the R2a/R3a over the original R:

- Leica M mount: faster and more secure lens changes. Just get the appropriate M adapter for your current optics and play on.

- Aperture-priority AE: yes, it makes a difference (being that I shoot with a Hexar RF, I'm rather biased on this point).

- Single electronically-governed shutter: as opposed to the twin-"curtain" mechanical shutter system in the R and R2 (necessary to prevent light leaks; the shutter used in these bodies was originally designed for SLRs which have that nice mirror in the light path, hence not requiring an absolutely light-tight shutter design). Besides being mechanically simpler, that single electronic shutter is somewhat quieter. Of course, it needs a battery.

Build quality: the original R has a plastic top plate and so-so film door; the R improved on this with a magnesium top plate and beefier metal door. The R2a/R3a contimue this, adding a more refined finish. Getting better all the time.

Your R is hardly a dog; the R2 and R2a/R3a wouldn't exist without it. But if you feel a real need or desire for AE, the latest Rs are worth it.


- Barrett

 

[Paulo]

Thanks Barret I appreciate your reply,

🙂

 

[Paulo]

Whoops! I just realized I had should have said R2 vs R2a (it is the R2 that I have, definatley a lovey camera)

Paul

 

[tedwhite]

What Barrett says is an astute analysis of the differences that matter. And you would be well within logic to follow his suggestions and opt for the R3A. However, you mention "maybe it's a skill thing" and the idea of practice.

You might follow your own thoughts here first (and possibly save a few bucks) by doing just that: use the camera daily until focusing, selecting an aperture, metering, etc., become as automatic as making coffee in the morning.

Practice this way (merely a suggestion). Say you want to photograph people walking by an archway. You think this might make a good shot - for whatever aesthetic reason.

Guesstimate the shutter speed, let's say a 250th. Do the same with the aperture. Hmmm, how about f:8. You're using ISO 400 and it's an overcast day. Then meter and see how close you came. Keep doing this until you are either smack on or maybe one stop off or one click of the shutter speed dial off. Either way it's a fast adjustment.

All that's left to do then is focus, and with your camera we're talking one, maybe two, seconds.

And if you're using black and white film you can be off a stop or two and it's quite fixable.

You can get to the point where, as long as you don't dramatically change your locale, once again, all you've got to do is one thing: focus. And you can even eliminate that act in some situations by using the hyperfocal scale on the camera lens.

Ted

 

[amateriat]

Okay: you have an M-mount Bessa with better build quality than the R. The big difference now is AE capability, and, to a somewhat lesser extent, shutter noise. Your call. 🙂

To expand (a bit) on Ted's very good points about this thing called skill: besides an almost extreme familiarity with their cameras and lenses, really, really good shooters have their film choice down cold: not only do they have a pretty good idea how well their chosen film will perform under ideal, non-rushed circumstances, when they can micromanage the metering of a given scene till the cows come home; they also know how much latitude the film offers them when the going gets fast and frenetic, when there simply isn't time to get the metering just-so. With certain b/w and color-neg films, you don't have to be bang-on to get the shot good – the trick is knowing how far Out There you can go, and still come back with printable images.

And with this familiarity with cameras, lenses and film (and, if you're up for it, processing and wet-printing and/or digital scanning and printing), comes the ability to relax into the process a bit. The gear feels good and solid in your hands, but now you're not obsessed with it, just with the picture you want, and without the clutter of what do I do now? and (hopefully) only left with the positive do.


- Barrett

 

[Paulo]

r2 vs r2a

r2 vs r2a

Yes the AE function is the only real issue, I cant say I'm too concerned about shutter noise although I'm sure this is an issue for some users. Teds comment on just getting more familiar with the camera operation is a valid one, and it is something i've thought about. I'll see how patient I can be and whether I can get a bit faster and more accurate at guessing. Thanks Ted and Barrett

🙂

 

[pvdhaar]

Yes the AE function is the only real issue, I cant say I'm too concerned about shutter noise although I'm sure this is an issue for some users. Teds comment on just getting more familiar with the camera operation is a valid one, and it is something i've thought about. I'll see how patient I can be and whether I can get a bit faster and more accurate at guessing. Thanks Ted and Barrett

🙂

Paul,

getting more familiar with the camera is one thing, the other is to stop metering the light all the time you make an exposure. That's a pitfall for everyone who's used to AE. The changing shutter speeds given by AE leads you to believe that the light is different every shot. But that is not the case. It's the reflectivity of the subjects that changes more than the light itself changes.

I get much more consistent results when I meter just once, set the exposure, and then shoot irrespective of subject reflecitivity. Black subjects come out black, white ones come out white, just like they're supposed to do instead of all middle grey.

I adjust for clouds and shadow with memorized amounts. Only when the light really changes (like when it gets overcast or so) do I meter again to set a base exposure.

This may not work for everybody, but you may try if it works for you as well. Shooting a couple of rolls in this fashion to see whether it's to your liking first is certainly cheaper than cycling gear..

 

[mechon]

Thing is there are certain situations where I kinda miss the moment as I am re framing and re metering to match, Maybe it's a skill thing.

Mike Johnston wrote in his SMP aricle "The Best Lens for a Leica":
"(...)I would go so far as to say that any photographer who carefully meters and focuses every single shot is simply not using the Leica correctly.(...)" You can read whole Mike's article HERE

I think Mike is right and one can say "any RF camera" intead of "Leica". So maybe just don't care so much about accurate metering and focusing and use The Force !!!
And save your money - spend them for more negatives insted of new camera.

good luck and good light
Mechon

 

[Paulo]

Hey Mechon thanks for the link , I guess I've relied on AE for too long and need to trust my instincts a bit more, Peter you are right a couple of rolls of film trying this method (and trusting my eyes) l will be a darn sight cheaper than trading up to an r2a.

Thanks all

Paul