R2 and R3A vibrations

[BAPIEMAI]

I am narowing my choises in these two. I was wondering if the R2 mechanical shutter causes vibrations and if that is avoided on the R3A. For me RF means no flash so I want to be able to shoot down to 1/2 with no camera shake.

 

[Terence T]

1/2 handheld on any camera is going to result in lots of camera shake. Don't make a difference if it's the R2 or R2a. I've shot successfully down to 1/15 handheld on my Bessas but that's as far as I'd risk.

 

[chug]

Maybe with a mini release it might be alright, but you would really have to rest the camera against a wall or some object to keep it still. But it works alright 🙂 So I have found with my R and L. They have the same shutter as an R2.

 

[BAPIEMAI]

With mirror lock up and leaning against a wall I have managed 2 sec exposure with my DSLR with no camera shake (I was a sniper in the army and it now pays off in the real life).

Also sometimes I prefer a little blur in my photos instead of flash.

 

[chug]

You'll have no problems then 🙂

 

[rover]

Everyone is different. I try to keep my speed to 1/30s but will go to 1/15s if necessary in general photography. I have also used 1/8s and 1/4s expecting camera shake which is from me, not the shutter.

I don't believe any difference will be noticed between a mechanical or electronic shutter at slow speeds.

 

[BAPIEMAI]

I may be banned for saying that but why then pay for a Leica ? I was under the impression that the Leica shutter causes less vibration than the Bessas, if it is not the case it will make me feel better.

 

[rover]

I think the Leicas and Bessas are two different beasts. Both very good and worthy of consideration.

When compared to an SLR, then a RF will tend to shake much less. My belief is that this is much more due to the mirror slap in the SLR than the shutter movement. It is possible that the shutter can cause vibration, but I don't think by a noticeable amount at slower speeds where your own trembling would be more of an issue.

Consider that all shutters are a little different, but similar. They are put into motion by a release, move based on their setting, are slowed by breaks and stop. All that has to happen no matter what shutter is used. Perhaps if you are looking for something truely neutral a leaf shutter is what you want. In the lens shutters open and close in a circular motion so the vibrations should be counteracted by the geometry of the device.

(I may have read that in one of Roger Hicks' books so credit needs to be placed with the appropriate party.)

 

[BAPIEMAI]

Yes leaf shutters sound good but for me the only option apart from the 35mm RF is the Mamiya 7II, which is only stoping me because of the size. This thing is huge maybe not as big as an SLR 6X7 but it just as big as an EOS 1V.

But at the end I will end up with one anyway...

 

[Pherdinand]

Mechanical leaf shutters still have a ring inside moving in one direction, actuated by a pretty hefty spring. If i fire a shutter that is out of the camera, i still can feel it shaking somewhat. Not much compared to my kiev, though.

 

[sockeyed]

My experience is that the electronic shutter on my r3a is a bit 'gentler' than the mechanical one on my bessa r (same as the r2). I haven't had the r3a for that long, so it's just an impression.

 

[MCTuomey]

I have an M4 and an R2A. The shutter differences are negligible relative to my handholding down to 1/15, which is about my personal limit, and certainly no justification for buying a Leica. I also have two leaf shutter RFs - same performance for me down to about 1/15. IMHO, the type of shutter is pretty much irrelevant.

Good luck with your decision!

 

[Bertram2]

I am narowing my choises in these two. I was wondering if the R2 mechanical shutter causes vibrations and if that is avoided on the R3A. For me RF means no flash so I want to be able to shoot down to 1/2 with no camera shake.

To compare a gun and a camera at this point is not helpful I'd say. The lens is MUCH more sensitive than the gun, from several reasons. 1/2sec with a 50mm lens is a bit like shooting a cal 38 snub nose 2,5" on a 100 yard range. Can work if the target is a truck, but mostly it won't anyway.

At a speed of 1/2 sec free hand you will always get blur, more or less but always more than the shutter ever could cause. That does not mean the pics are worthless but they are not really sharp.

It does not make sense IMHO to buy high performance lenses because of their brilliant MTFs and to shoot them handheld at 1/2 sec later. It's better to take Iso 1600 instead and go up to 1/15 or 1/30 at least and even for these speeds I'd recommend strongly a monopod because I want to see how good my lenses really are.

Not to speak about moving objects, hopeless at 1/2 sec.

If i shoot landscape and want to get even the smallest details as sharp as possible i take a tripod and use the selftimer, because thus the first curtain is released when you press the button, the shutter opens when the selftimer runs out. This reduces the shutter vibes addtionally.

Best,
Bertram